i have a 91' areostar with bad plugs they wont come off because they are rusted in and there isnt much leverage
does anyone have any sugestions for removal?

 

Spray some WD-40 down the plug area and drive it around. Let it cool then they will be easy to remove.

 

i was told that using a penetrant like wd 40 would be bad for the plugs electrical connection is thta true?

 

Your not going to spray the inside of the boot. Spray it down the area around the plug.

 

ok that worked i got the 2nd one off broken in half but off lol now on the passenger side the plugs arnt viewable is there a way to get to them?

 

You will need to do it from under it or see if you can get a straw in the fender well.

 

erm also the 3rd plug on the driver sie wont come out because i cant fit the socet wrench over it any ideas here?

 

Use a socket with a Hex head on it, Then use a short wrench to turn it.

 

I seem to remember someone on the old board talking about cutting an access hole in the firewall by the 3rd plug on the driver's side, and then putting a body plug in it when they were done.

I just changed mine again, and I swear I'm gonna cut a hole in the firewall the next time I have to change plugs. It would sure save me some aggravation, I must be getting less tolerant in my old age.

 

Muffinman's post is 100% correct! I have used that technique before, and it works every time on Aerostar's plugs. PB Blaster is better than WD 40, in my opinion for plugs that are stuck. Always have a bright light shining in to see exactly where to spray the PB Blaster.

Always change plugs when the engine is cold, at least an overnight cool off. Use a quality plug, like Motorcraft or Autolite platinum, which is basically the same product. Lastly, if you use a slight coating of anti-seize lubricant on the plug thread, and dieletic clear grease on the plug tip, and wire connection, the next plug change is a piece of cake. Lastly, know the correct torque specs! Too many people crank the spark plug hard into the head. Then add a year or two of heat and cool down cycles. If you find it very hard to remove a plug that has had anti seize lubricant on the threads, then that is the key sign the plugs were over tightened in the first place! That is why I hate most "quickie" tune up shops. Those "mechanics" over tighten all the time, and they don't care.

Main thing. Take your time, be patient, and think about what you are doing. Again, always have a bright work light, I can't stress that enough. With one, if you disconnect a vacuum hose, or crack a vacuum "T" or "L" conncection, you will see it! It's also a good idea to have some various size vacuum hose and connection assortment handy. Sometimes old vacuum hoses look okay, but when you bend them, you see the brittle cracks, where it can leak, and suck in air, causing annoying idling quirks, especially in damp and cold weather. good luck...