When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Intermittently the dash-lights, tail-lights, side running lights, and maybe the parking lights go off for a few seconds and then come back on - don't know about the turn signals. The headlights are definitely not effected nor is the high-beam indicator light. The light switch was replaced (different problem) about 4-5 years ago. Does anyone have any idea as to what is causing this crazy problem, PLEASE. THANKS.
Vehicle:
1978 E150 Econoline van with 351 V8, automatic, ps, pb, A/C, and cruise. No power windows, locks, etc. The van also has a dropped floor and tie-downs to accommodate my wheelchair. The wheelchair modifications were done years ago, way before the electrical problem began.
Problem:
Intermittent electrical. The dash-lights, tail-lights, side running lights, and maybe the parking lights will go off for a few seconds and then come back on. It makes no difference whether the van is moving or parked. The headlights are definitely not effected nor is the high-beam indicator light - don't know about the turn signals. This problem began about 3 weeks ago.
The light switch was replaced (different problem) about 4-5 years ago.
Recently, the van has been in the shop twice to try to fix the problem. The first time, a general inspection of the electrical system was done but nothing unusual was found. The battery terminals were cleaned and this SEEMED to help a little. The second time, I had the trailer hitch removed - not the problem.
I dont have any manuals or references dating that far back but several regulars here should have some of the older stuff like Franklin2... it may be a little wait but they may be able to help. If it were a late model I would hazard a guess of a relay, but this sounds more like a grounding problem or switch related on older setups like that. Unfortunatley with the aftermarket installation of the drop floor and wheel chair modifications it may be a real pickle to find.
Check the light switch itself. Pull it and check the general conditon. If any doubt they are easy to find and relatively cheap to replace (use a new one, not a used one!). If that doesn't fix it at least it's out of the equation after that.
Also check the headlight switch plug for any signs of burnt or overheated wires. That may have been enough to melt some of the plug body causing a loose connection, etc.,etc.
AL.
The headlight switch would definitely be a good place to start. Even though the headlights work ok, the running lamps go through the switch too, but are fed from a different power source.
This is an intermittent problem, which is going to make it tough to locate. Inspection of the headlight plug like the other guys said, would be a good start too. Concentrate on the brown, and tan/white stripe wires going to the switch.
I am having the headlight switch replaced next week. I will also request that they closely inspect the switch plug. Being quadriplegic (auto accident) I'm unable to do these things myself so a local repair shop will be doing the work. It's very frustrating to have to pay someone $72/hour to do something I could once have done myself. I use to really enjoy turning a wrench - before I was injured.
A friend told me that the dimmer switch could be to blame for the problem. Is this possible?? It doesn't sound right to me but I'm pretty much guessing. Should I go ahead and have the dimmer switch replaced too?
I want to make sure of our terminology here. If he means the switch that makes the headlights go from high to low beam, then no, this switch is for the headlights only, which work ok. If he means the dimmer for the dash lights built into the headlight switch(by twisting the ****), this switch only affects the instrument lighting, not the outside running/taillights.
> A friend told me that the dimmer switch could
> be to blame for the problem. Is this possible??
> Should I go ahead and have the dimmer switch
> replaced too?
This is in reference to the headlight dimmer switch - the foot switch on the floor.
I finally got the headligfht switch replaced. Hopefully that will do the trick. I asked the shop to also check the grounds. They said they checked some of the grounds but there are a lot of different grounds and would be a big expense to check them all.
I'll post again when I know how things turn out with the light switch & grounds. Thanks!
When you figure that it's time to throw in a new hi-beam dimmer switch (mounted on the floor), get it from Ford!!! I went through too many aftermarket dimmers in short order and found the Ford switches to last at least twice as long.
AL.
The new light switch (on the dash) was installed a couple of weeks ago and, so far, so good. The problem appears to be fixed! That same switch was supposedly replaced about five years ago. I'm wondering if that was one of those "let's not and say we did" jobs. The original switch worked fine for 21 years so it's hard for me to believe that the replacement switch (genuine Ford part) was only good for five years??
I'm now looking at used vans - only Fords, of course. Do you have any advice for me, especially in regards to which engine and automatic transmission is preferrable? Are there any that should be avoided? - Judging by the prices I'm seeing, I will probably be looking to buy a 1998 or older. Are there any particular model years that are more desirable? Are there any that should be avoided?
I highly doubt it was a "lets not and say we did" thing if it lasted another 5 years. Ive seen them go bad in a year so who can tell? Maybe they replaced the switch but didnt replace the connector and the connector has one partially burned pin that created high resistance and eventually caused the new switch to fail prematurely. Perhaps something has been added that loads the circuits more now than originally or the stress of age is just getting to it. In any case I wouldnt complain too much about 5 more years service on a relatively inexpensive part. Many parts today are made in China and other "quality" places where the originals 21 years ago were not.
I would say you are pretty safe with most any of the vans, but I would at least get a V8. The V6 may not have the longevity you seek. The E4OD transmission seems to be one of the better ones for durability. As in any used vehicle purchase, its worth a few extra bucks to get it thoroughly looked over by a trusted technician before making the purchase. One weak spot on the vans was the blower switch. Make sure it is working on all speeds and have the AC checked out good too.
Last edited by HomerWinzlow; Sep 10, 2004 at 07:25 PM.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.