need disc brake info

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Aug 6, 2004 | 10:42 PM

italianrich

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Joined: Feb 2004

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need disc brake info

Hi, im doing a 68 bronco, getting ready to slide in a d44. I got a hold of a set of the chevy older style backing plates and disc spindle, it is a really easy bolt on. my question is, what master cylinder will I need? I can't afford the power setup yet, so it will have to be a manual disc for now, stock drum in the back. I would think I will need a proportioning valve too. I would like to use a setup that I could upgrade to power assist when the money allows. Thanks
Rich

Aug 11, 2004 | 04:27 PM

Sparky04SD

Laughing Gas

Joined: Oct 2003

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From: Lynden, WA

Manual disc brakes will require a LOT of pedal pressure. Not really a good idea without the power booster. The swap is virtually all boltin if you know what parts work. I did it using the 78 bronco outers on my 75 bronco D44 axle. I like the Ford setup better then the GM swap. Search the bronco forums on the web. There's a ton of info about both swaps.

Aug 12, 2004 | 01:19 AM

oldgabe

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Joined: Mar 2002

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I used a M/C from a 1975 F250 camper special, no booster or purportioning valve. Just finished 2 weeks ago and it stops GREAT. Straight as an arrow and half the pedal pressure. I'll upgrade to power later but Im happy for now!
Mark

Aug 12, 2004 | 05:24 PM

68 351 bronc

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Joined: Jan 2004

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From: Colville

New master cylinders from NAPA or similar parts houses arn't expensive. Get one for a 76 or 77 EB.
All of the guys I have talked to about this say the proportioning valve is not nessisary.

One problem with the Chevy setup is stripped spindle bolts. The stock Ford setup with its wide bolt cirlcle is much stronger and reliable.

Aug 30, 2004 | 09:46 PM

2classics

Elder User

Joined: Aug 2004

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From: NE Wisconsin

It is better to use the 250 m/c for two reasons. 1. the brake lines come out on the fender side so you have more clearance for the valve covers, and 2. the 250 had a double piston caliper so it pushes more fluid.

Oct 7, 2004 | 10:58 AM

rdhanks

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A combination proportioning valve allows the proper amount of pressure and metered fliud to the respective front and rear brakes as well as providing residual pressure to the rear. Otherwise you may be getting premature rear brake lockup.

Oct 10, 2004 | 01:30 PM

RCrawler

Postmaster

Joined: Dec 2002

Posts: 3,594

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From: Southern Oregon USA

Every disc conversion I've done had different results in the end as far as pedal feel and stopping ability. There really isn't a set answer for what works and what doesn't until you drive it. At that point you can decide what M/C and or prop valve you will need.

My personal setup is the stock drum M/C with no prop valve. Stops very evenly and has decent stopping power even without power assist.
You do need to remove the residual pressure valve from the front brake reservoir port, but it is pretty simple.

Jason