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Well since I have been reading about the torque specs being a possible problem for warped rotors I would like to make sure I torque mine correctly when I replace them this weekend but no has mentioned what the torque specs are in any of the posts I have searched through. Can some one tell me what the proper torque specs are for a 2000 V10 Excursion?
I found a post on another forum that said Ford up the torque to 145 to 155 and then another person clams he got a letter saying it was now 155 to 165lb-ft.
It's not so much the exact VALUE...
(just so long as it's not above the 160 range...)
it's more or less that it is consitent around the lugs and that it is done incrementally...
i.e. don't do the first one to 160 then the second one to 160 etc... clockwise around the wheel...
but it's best to do the first to 50, then follow a star pattern all around to 50... then go to 100 in a star pattern , then to your max level in a start pattern....
and it works.... had 3 sets of warped rotors (on them) before I finally taught the stealership how to do it... THEY were using ratchets @ 200 lbs..
When I purchased my 2002 X in 2003, it didn't have a manual. I downloaded the PDF manual for this from the Ford Owners Web Site.
In the Roadside Emergencies section of this manual, it states the following:
Bolt size: M14 X 1.5
Wheel lug nut torque*:
Nm:100-225
Lb-ft: 150-165
* Torque specifications are for nut and bolt threads free of dirt and rust. Use only Ford recommended replacement fasteners.
I have seen in other posts where this was an update to the manual to help correct warping rotors.
I had warped rotors when I purchased my truck with 13K on the odometer.
I read a lot about my new X, and discovered information about this, so what could go wrong...I retorqued to 165 and the warping actually improved to a point where it was no longer a nuisance.
I still have my ART rotors ready to install, but holding off now since they improved and holding off as long as I can since I keep vehicles for long periods of time.
Now have over 30K on the odometer,and no problems with the wheels, lugs, or brakes.
I got the specs I posted from the original service manual release. It is quite possible they have changed to a different spec for such a reason. Thanks for the updated information. Its odd that increasing torque a few pounds would make that much difference but Im glad to hear it has good results. In the past warped rotors from wheel installation were primarily due to torquing out of sequence or uneven torque plus rust and other crap behind the wheels to flange. I do mostly electrical and electronics repair these days so I am a bit out of touch with changes on suspension specs. MY DVD is a couple years old here at the house..