I'm having trouble determining a positive ID on my carburetor for the purpose of buying a rebuild kit. I have a '72 F100 with a 302. It has a two-barrel carb that I suspect is original, but I don't know that for sure. There are some alphanumeric codes stamped in various places...

On the base: 2TEB
On the side of the bowl: F2 4
Also on the bowl: 1.08 within a circle

Thanks thanks to the sticky post by Ford_Six, I suspect the 1.08 within a circle is the CFM rating code for a 2100 Motorcraft/Autolite original 2V. Can anyone decode the other stampings to confirm this or otherwise ID my carb?

Thanks in advance

 

it is a Motorcraft 2100 2V. carb.ID. would start D2_ _ (D for1970 to 1980 vechiles) and 2 for the model year. Are you sure there is not a D before the 2TEB?

 

Hi Gary B,

Thanks for the response. I've come across references to the code pattern D _ _ F - _ _ on partsamerica and rockauto in relation to the Motorcraft 2100 series and the D and F seem to be constants. If I plug the letters stamped on the base of my carb into the blanks in the pattern I get D2TF-EB which has direct listings at the above sites. So I called my local Ford dealership parts counter and the guy came back with Motorcraft kit CT-499D based on what would have been the stock carburetor on my truck. This matches the kit rockauto lists for D2TF-EB in their online catalog. So, I think I've answered my own question since posting it.

I'm still going on a bit of supposition, and if anyone can offer any more information on the subject, I'd sure appreciate it. I was quoted $13.87 for the kit, so I wouldn't be out much if I get the wrong one, but I'm concerned about the possibility of ending up with a carburetor in a state of terminal disassembly on my workbench.

Peter

 

as long as the gaskets mach up the main difference on the kits for the older models is the power valve and that carb kit has such an broad application that the power valve is probally an universal one,you could buy a power valve for that carb.# but will probally not notice any difference. good ole 2100 carbs are simple and did not change much,if you saw one you saw them alll. If you have a basic automotive knowledge you will have no trouble with this one,Good luck.

 

often the carbs are full o varish and changing gaskets will do nothing for them the must be cleaned dis assembly and dipping(galon can w/ basket at parts store) blow out any passages wth compressor or seen some one use a bicycle pump ...
now that it is clean you can re assemble and put those gaskets to use replacing the neadle and seat power valve/acc valve and rejetting if you want a tad more gas lol

basicly if there is a prob like a diaprah or gasket slap in new ones and you set

 

I don't know about you guys, but I've always had trouble with the accelerator pump check weight in new kits. I've looked through various brands and it seems like all of the weights are too fat to fit in the little well that the ball drops in to. I end up reusing the old weight. Anyone else run into that?

 

yeh, generally do reuse the old check ball

 

I have rebuilt a few 2100 & 4100 carbs with kits from Tomco. ( www.tomco-inc.com ) They make a nice kit and have an online PDF catalog thats pretty good. They don't sell direct but they will email you a local dealer.

 

Thanks to all who replied.

I want to tie up this thread so that people doing searches can know how this shook out.

I went ahead and got the Motorcraft kit CT499-D from a local dealer (Northside Ford in Portland, OR) for the quoted price, no shipping, handling, or tax. The instructions confirmed that my carb is the Motorcraft 2100 series and the rebuild progressed without further difficulty. I disassembled the carb and soaked it in carb dip overnight. Following the instructions, I reassembled the carb with the new parts provided and made the adjustments described. After reinstalling the carb, my off-idle stumble is gone, the engine runs smoother and has more power, and it doesn't stall. The disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly, adjustment and installation probably took me between six and seven work-hours. I'm pretty slow and methodical about these things, so it would probably take the average person less time.

Regarding the ID alphanumeric on the base of the carb, it does seem that the D and F were left out of the stamping to be assumed as constants and only the variables were included in the stamp, so 2TEB = D2TF-EB. This makes it a bit confusing for a novice wrench turner 32 years later, but this doesn't seem like the only confusing thing Ford has done over the years.

Thanks again to all who took time to reply. Your help is appreciated by people like me who need all the help we can get!

 

Doing a google search trying to ID my carb I found this old thread. I had to sign up and post here to see if anyone around here can still help me.
I have two old Motorcraft Carbs, no tags. Someone else told me from pictures that they were early 70s 2150 carbs.
Now I see the info in this thread about the stamped numbers.
Both are 1.08 on the bowl.
On the base flange one is 8FFA ... D8FF-FA
The other is 4PEA ... so D4PF-EA

I would like to know the year of them and a guess as to what they came off of so I can get a exact rebuild kit.

Thank you very much for any help.

 

The first sounds like a '78 and the second from a '74. Without the tags, it won't be possible to get an exact kit, but I would try and see if the parts store can cross-ref the casting numbers you just listed. When I go in to Napa to get kits they have a giant book that they look up the tag numbers from. Hopefully they can at least do something with the numbers you just lsited, even though they aren't tag numbers. But all a tag has on it is the Ford part number anyway, and then a few calibration-related numbers underneath.

 

Great, thanks for the response.
I already did take the one carb I have off in with me to NAPA and the guy there said he couldnt do anything for me without the tag.

Any real difference in the carbs from '74 to '78 as far as Motorcraft CT-499D rebuild kits go?

 

OK. I went to two different NAPAs and two different guys tried to sell me two different rebuild kits for the same carb that I brought into them.
That adventure didnt really help me out much.

 

1.08 is the venturi size. That carb is rated to flow 256 cfm. The 2100's
with a 1.21 stamped on them flow 356 cfm.

 

Thanks for that bit of info!