I have rebuilt a lots of ford carbs(retired ford tech.)Parts had bunched a lots of 2100 carb kits together with a universal power valve and extra gaskets to cover different applications and that usally worked good.So there is not much difference in them.

 

Hope it helps, good luck.

 

Thanks Gary B!
So with having two carbs one possibly being a '74 and the other a '78 do you think that Ford part # D4AZ-9A586-A ... aka... Motorcraft part # CT-499-D will work as the rebuild kit to get? Even tho I believe it states it cover up to '74 or '76?

 

Is the choke pulloff on the air horn behind the choke tower or on the passenger side behind the choke linkage? That will tell you if it's a 2100 or a 2150. If you have any pictures, post them up.

 

clean the carb parts good and blow out all passages AND match up the old gaskets.You should be good to go!!

 

It is on the lid behind the tower on both of them.

 

I have a 1976 Ford Econoline (E-Series) Chatau Van with a 351 Windsor engine. The carb is two barrel with tab ID 1st line: DGUE JA and 2nd line: B 5J 29. I did not see any bowl stamps like the 1.08 however I have not cleaned the carb so maybe this is just hidden. I see fmc400 asks: "Is the choke pulloff on the air horn behind the choke tower or on the passenger side behind the choke linkage? That will tell you if it's a 2100 or a 2150." I do not feel very knowledgeable now cause I am not sure how to identify the choke pull off and I do not know what the air horn is. I know the choke is a flat plate that can be tilted to block off the air flow and I can move the linkage to close and open the choke. Still do not know how to identify 2100 or 2150 series. What do I need to know for ID purposes to find a replacement carb as the bushing on the throttle linkage is missing and I have been told this carb needs more than a regular rebuild and so should find a new core.

 

I have a 1983 ford f-150 with a 302 the card on it has lock up and i have taken it of and it has not id plat after reading what has posted here in now that it has the clock stamp 108. but im not sure how to find what model it is can any one help.

Thinks

 

I would guess the carb is a model 2150 Motorcraft, but when you get up into the 80's decade of carbs familiarity fades. For better id there should be a number stamped onto the side of the carb base. Pictures are always helpful too.

 

The tag that was originally bolted under one of the top screws is helpful, but I'm pretty sure that there was only one carb used on that application. So the parts store should be able to get a reman carb or kit from your year and engine size.

 

I this this Holley 2100 D Carburetor and on the cover plat there is a hole in the cover over the fuel bowl. can any one tall me if this has a purposes.

 

The Holley 2V is a 2300. The Autolite 2V is 2100. If you are referring to an Autolite 2V, they came with two types of holes over the float chamber. One was on the side of a raised boss. It was a simple vent adjunct to the two brass overflow tubes. The other variety was only used for 2 years or so. It is oriented straight upward, and had a linkage with cap operated via the accelerator pump lever. Apparently the idea was to control evaporative vapors. It was and is worthless. Best to put in a 5/16 in hole plug (available at most hardware stores) and do away with the linkage.

Some of the later Motorcraft 2100s had a vent on the top of the float chamber. It includes a barbed connection. It was a more effective means of controlling evaporative contamination, and had a hose attached running to I believe a charcoal filled cannister. The barb can be capped with a vacuum fitting.

 

Think you for your help i am still trying to figure out how to add picks to the post but here are 2 links to picks of the carb.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Ms Dash's Album: Garage - Odin - Picture

[/IMG]Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Ms Dash's Album: Garage - Odin - Picture

 

Your Autolite 2100 was rebuilt by Holley in the past. It is the model with hole oriented upward, which originally had the cap and linkage. Probably 1968/1969. Like I said the hole can be plugged, or just left open. I like to plug them.

The metal ID tag is missing, but there is another ID number stamped on the side of the foot (base flange).

 

Think you for your help i will plug the hole and put it back together.