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Ok so after a few hours of reading on the 10k mod (i did not understand it at all and then saw a pic and it clicked) so I have a few questions. First off do i need gauges for the 10k mod or the clamp mod? I think i read you need gauges with the clamp so I'm going to go with a 5.6k or the normal 10k resistor. Next, will i need to shim the fuel regulator? I didn't get around to that yet but I'll do it first if I need to. I'm going to buy the stuff now so i may have more questions later. Thanks for the help, and sorry for another 10k question but i couldnt find the answer on here or on dieselstop.com.
Ok i went and got a pack of 10k ohm resistors, a pack of 5.6k ohm resistors, and 3 1N4001 diodes. the truck is a 96 f250 and i have an intake on it and an exhaust is coming. What would be better for me? The clamp mod or just the old 10k? A rough idle is fine with me and I'm going to be putting a switch in also. I'm going to keep reading and any help would be great. Thanks
The clamp is supposed to make more power, but is known to raise EGT's as much as a chip. Without gauges I wouldn't go any further than a regular old 10K.
I love my 10k on my 96 dually. I tried the clamp the other night and it didn't work right for me. But I'm pretty certain that I messed something up. But since my 10k is switched I was thinking about trying a lower value resistor in place of the 10k. I know you don't want to hear this, but get the gauges first. You probably don't need it for the 10k but anything else you do. Trust me you'll be glad you did.
I did my new pyro ( ISSPRO ) when I did the clamp mod and couldn't believe how fast the egts shot up. Definetly get a pyro before the clamp even if you put a switch on it.
I did my new pyro ( ISSPRO ) when I did the clamp mod and couldn't believe how fast the egts shot up. Definetly get a pyro before the clamp even if you put a switch on it.
Just out of curiosity, what were the changes in the reading?
I only ran it around for a little while without the clamp to make sure the gauge was working properly. It doesn't run any hotter just cruising but when you get on it the needle shoots around the gauge, much quicker then it did without the clamp.
Well I put it in (about 20 times) and no luck yet. I put it in the right eye and the mouth (mouth is blue/green wire and right eye is silver/red??) well it didnt do anything, so i just put the resistor in without a switch and i got a little rough idle but then the truck died and the check engine light went on so i gave up for the day, made another resistor and put it in this morning and still nothing but then i put it in the left eye (brown with white stripe) and turned it on and the idle would jump from 600-800rpm and keep repeating that. Is this the rough idle everyone talks about?
No, don't put the resistor in the brown wire. Blue/green and grey/red only. Are you pushing the wire down past the rubber insulator or tucking it under? I pushed mine down though the insulation. It took a few tries but I finally got it. Just keep trying. But leave the brown wire alone.