4WD problems w/ '94 XLT
http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcase.html
This has not solved my problem. Using the one recommendation about the processor module and observing the LED, it does flash. This indicates that the problem is the transfer case motor, but when I apply power directly from the battery the motor operates correctly. But when I reinstall it where it belongs, no joy. I checked to make sure I was getting voltage at the wiring harness where it goes right into the motor and I'm seeing approximately 10 volts (I know this is a little low). This indicates that power is getting to the motor. I have disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the motor probably three times now, and still nothing. I have searched this website as well as a couple of others and have found no other ideas to fix this.
Do you think I should just quit messin' with motor and replace it? I hate to drop $250-$300 for a new motor when the problem could be elsewhere. Is there a way to manually turn the transfer case positioner to 4WD HI so that I can rule out the hubs and transfer case without destroying it? I'm looking for any helpful suggestions at this point. Thanks.
I once had problems with my 4WD too. My problem was with the auto-locking hubs. This may or may not the problem on your vehicle. When you engage the 4WD, you should here a slite clunking noise as the transfer case engages and the front drive shaft comes up to speed. I never engage my 4WD up 25 mph (it just easier on the drive-train). If you here this noise when you engage the 4WD on your Explorer, most likely your tansfer-case is engaging. When my hubs where not engaging, I knew the transfer-case was engaged, as you can tell the difference between the normal noise level of 2WD and the noise level of 4WD from the drive-train. If you can notice this difference on your vehicle, the problem maybe with the hubs. Also, as I learned the auto-locking hubs are the weakest link in the Explorer 4WD system. One way to check, and this still may not be conclusive, is to: while the vehicle is turned off and in Park, raise the front wheels off the ground and turn the front drive shaft by hand and see if the front hubs in gage. If so, then lower one side and on the side that is still raised, try turning the front wheel only one direction (as if you turn the opposite of the engagment rotation you will disengage the hub). If you can turn the front wheel and the hub does not hold, then there is a good possibility the hub or hubs are the problem. If this is the case, the hubs run about $300 to $325 each. I know, I had to shell out $700 to get mine fixed. If the above, indicates to be the problem, you may want to get a profession second option, due to the cost of the hubs. Good Luck
Jim Tucek (jt583107(No Email Addresses In Posts!))



