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Ok, for instance you take and run your engine for 3000 miles and change the oil every time. You're religious about this, ok? Running a synthetic oil will give you no great advantage over a quality Dino that will cost less then half (almost a third) of the cost of that same synthetic. When will you realize benefits? If you're in Arizona in the summer, or Minnesota in the winter. Of course, that can be taken care of too with a simple change in viscosity with the dino. If you run 3000 miles and then change, Synthetics today don't really offer much. It's not that synthetics are bad, its just that the Dino oils have gotten that good. Running a Valvoline, Castrol, Shell, etc Dino oil will do you fine, you know?
If you're one to change your drain interval, THAT is where synthetic oils really shine. But running to 3000, you're just pouring oil out the drain plug.
As far as race cars, if your application is running high rpm's (a truck site...) then they'd also be a good deal.
i dont think you can run synthetic motor oil in jet engines..
Actually that's the only type of oil the jet engine/gas turbine manufacturer's recommend. Mineral oils are more prone to coking at the high temperatures that jet/turbines engines see. Avation gas turbines were the driving force behind synthetic lubricant and technology.
MobilJet II is a leader in the aviation, marine and land gas turbine industry.
I live in Alabama.
It gets mid 90's to 100 during the Summer.
It gets down into the 'teens during the winter. (sometimes single digits, but not too often)
I have used conventional 10W30 in my truck since purchasing new. (Shell, Chevron, and now Havoline)
I have used only Motorcraft oil filters.
I do 4800-5000 mile drain intervals year-round.
My truck (4.2 V6) has 135,500 miles on it.
It burns no oil.
It leaks no oil.
UOAs show great results using conventional oil and said drain intervals.
Clyde gets minimal use (miles per year between 3 and 4,000) but when it's towing it works hard and 460's tend to run on the hot side. It gets a fresh load of Mobil 1 every fall when I tuck it in for the winter.
Three years ago on vacation in July to Colorado I had a partially plugged radiator (long story) running in 110+* temps. Mechanical gauge temps running 230-240* most of the day. It was really ugly! Vapor locked in Grand Island, NE for four hours. I credit Mobil 1 with protecting my engine. I don't think regular oil would have stood up to the abuse.
I also have a '68 Sears Hydro-Trac that I restored 12+ years ago, it mows an acre once or twice a week. The 14 hp OHV air-cooled Tecumseh I repowered it with is no longer manufactured (thanks tree huggers) so it too gets only the best I can afford, Mobil 1.
My Miata roadster runs only Trop-Artic 10-30 and the Tracer wagon and my wifes Taurus get anything but Pennzoil .
clyde thats great that even when ur vehicle overheated mobil 1 saved it. i believed thats what saved my explorer when the temp guage was redlined, and i meaned all the way to the top. not sure if anyone else notices this or not, but when it overheated, i pulled to the side of the road on the highway waiting for the tow truck and it sounded like 2 or 3 fans were running after i shut off the vehicle. i did add an electric fan to mine, hoping to free up horses. maybe that was it. but i opened the hood, and it was so hot i just left it open and got away from it. almost burned my damn finger trying to a few things.
Ah, another place that synthetics should be used. What's more "severe duty" then a snowplow? Revving up back and forth, working against a heavier force, etc. Then you'd have to deal with the fact that a busy snowplow ought to be refilled every 2 weeks or so, so you'd be spending 35 dollars PLUS crawling under the truck all the time.
I have heard of some people having troubl with mobiles v-twin oil it doesnt get up to operating temp fast enough and some bearings going out after switching to mobile but thats in a v twin.But i know some run their auto oil in them with no problems
My wifes 04 Kia gets M1 10w30........after long and hard debate........its the high rpms, 100* summers, 30* winters that sold me on the M1. Runs 4k rpms at 75 mph. 75mph here in Texas is just about cruising speed. 5k changes though to stay in warranty. They say I could run 7,500 mile changes and likely stay in warranty...but said not to quote them................yea, whatever......5k it is.
4k rpm's at 75? My friend took his parents RAV4 to bring me to KC for my trip out to California. For gas mileage...except that they thing doesn't get good mileage buzzing at 3800-4000 rpm's cause he had to speed cause he was late getting home from work for us to leave that morning. Baaad gearing hehe.
"'Second Generation' jet oils became available during the early 1960's. They are based on neopentyl polyol esters and typically contain tricresyl phosphate and antioxidants. Mobil Jet Oil II, BP Turbo Oil 2380 and Aeroshell Turbo Oil 500 are representative examples."
well peppy im sure that engine will last you a very long time. 4 cylinders right? hey i dont have a disagreement with that heck i run M1 in my twin cylinder lawn tractor. runs like a charm