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You have to get the ball joint out to get the bushings out for the ball joint goes through the bushing. Not sure why they had to take the whole front end a part, oh well at least its all done now.
sounds like somebody destroyed the ball joint.the bushing is under the top nut,it maybe tight but that's where it is.they disassembled the front end to replace the ball joint,that was destroyed.
That sounds funny to me, because the dealer never said anything about putting in a new ball joint or even about touching the ball joints beyond what the camber kit requires. The guy at the counter told me that the tech guys never could get the nut off and that the front end was disassembled to get to the camber bushing since the nut couldn't come off.
They had to get the ball joint out to replace the camber bushing, no 2 ways about it, so they either got the nut off or had to cut it off and than installed a new ball joint.
The factory camber bushings, located above the upper ball joints, alter camber by changing the ball joint stud angle.
Your local Ford dealer or alignment shop offers these bushings for most vehicles in set increments of correction up to 2 degrees of change.
Superlift adjustable camber/caster bushings offer a greater adjustment range than stock, and are normally needed with 1" to 2" lift coils.
With most trucks, if the full degree of correction is not needed for camber, the remainder can be rotated into caster.
These are the adjustable camber/caster bushings for Ford IFS Dana 44 and IFS Dana 50 front axles.
1 per side required.
They will adjust up to 2 3/4 degrees.
Our Price: $60.00 Bronco Graveyard
Well it looks like I'm going to have to look over the bill again and possibly call the dealership about this. It sounds like to me, if you have to remove the nut and supposedly no balljoints were replaced, there shouldn't be a reason why my entire front end was ripped apart and I had to pay a ton of cash because of it.
Take a look at that nut to see for yourself if they took the nut off. A new ball joint should really stick out, it's clean. The nut has to be removed to get the adjustable shim in and if any ajustment are made on the shim, it needs to be loosened. I've always had to take the ball joint out to get the stock shim removed. They should just slide right out, but they are always rusted in there. They might have given you a new balljoint. If you can't get the nut off, first you soak it with penetrant, then heat the nut, then heat the nut a lot, (knowing you have to replace the ball joint), then just cut the thing out. Not that much to it, maybe an extra hour labor and a new ball joint. The guy at the counter probably doesn't know the whole story.
I like Ingals adjustable shims. They don't cost that much and are very good quality. They use real steel, not that silvery looking pot metal stuff like I've seen other brands use.
Take a look at that nut to see for yourself if they took the nut off. A new ball joint should really stick out, it's clean. The nut has to be removed to get the adjustable shim in and if any ajustment are made on the shim, it needs to be loosened. I've always had to take the ball joint out to get the stock shim removed. They should just slide right out, but they are always rusted in there. They might have given you a new balljoint. If you can't get the nut off, first you soak it with penetrant, then heat the nut, then heat the nut a lot, (knowing you have to replace the ball joint), then just cut the thing out. Not that much to it, maybe an extra hour labor and a new ball joint. The guy at the counter probably doesn't know the whole story.
I like Ingals adjustable shims. They don't cost that much and are very good quality. They use real steel, not that silvery looking pot metal stuff like I've seen other brands use.
Where can someone buy some of thgose ingalls shims?
You could try contacting them to see who the local dealer is in your area: http://www.ingallseng.com/ They used to be the only company I know of that makes a track arm hole repair stud for the 70's 4x4's (that hole on the axle where the track arm pivots - it gets egged out)
Well the final bill came to $787 ($60 for parts), which seems a little high to me. The only part bought was the new camber bushings. The exact explaination on the bill is "install camber bushings as old ones were frozen, had to remove both front spindle to install camber bushings". The total time they spent working on my truck was almost 8 hours. I decided to go back and check the paper work from when the ball joints that were replaced and that total was $400 (labor rate was a little cheaper, different dealership), but $200 of that was for parts and it only took 4 hours, plus they did a little work on the steering. I went under the truck and there is a new camber bushing and cotter pin, but it is hard to tell about the nut, it is covered in rust, but not nearly as rusty as before, although they could have just cleaned the nut up.
There is no way to replace that camber bushing with out getting that nut off so they had to get it off, is there a new camber bushing on the other side as well, maybe its the other side they couldn't do? Man I'd sure love to do a job that paid that well, hell it would of been just as cheap to fly one of us in to help you out. Get to see a new place, drink a little beer, make a new friend and fix his truck. Oh well maybe next time.
They claimed they had the same problem on both sides and yes both sides have a new camber bushing. Lol, with the way this is going, I wish one of you guys did fly over here. Looking at how much it cost to replace the balljoints a few years back, I think I was cheated out of some money.
Hope you put it on your credit card. You could call around for estimates from a few other places to add to your letter to the credit card Co. Doctors and Lawyers get paid to practice, because a lot of the jobs they do are differen't. Mechanics get paid for experience, because if you've done just one tough ball joint - the next tough one's a little easier. With all that work they should have replaced the ball joints.