I have a dilema. My pickup sits too high for me after I installed the rear leaf springs. I put a set of Skyjacker 4" lift springs on my '75 F250. With just the bare frame and 31" tires the rear of my frame behind the rear shackle sits 35" off the ground. I know it will settle after I get the body/tranny/engine/etc on it, but how much can I expect? I will be running 35-36" tires so that'll jack it up more yet....

Right now I have the factory 4" blocks under my springs. Are you supposed to re-use the blocks with the springs or not? If you are, where can I get a set of 2" blocks?

Other than that progress has been slow on the project with wheat harvest. Today I started to sand down the body, I got the hood down to bare metal today, and am planning on starting on the box later on this evening (either that or a wedding dance and beers).

Anyone here make their own brake lines? I need to get a flaring tool and was wondering what a good one was to buy and I'll also need fittings/bender etc...

How about the drum brake set-up, I am keeping the dana 44 right now, and will be running "armstrong" steering until I find a Dana 60 to replace it. So I need to re-do my brakes, any reccomendations on fixing the drums up, or any tricks to making them stop better (I've always had disc brakes).

Well this is all I can think of to rant on now. So lets hear what I should do!

 

I wouldn't mess with the susp until you get the body on to see how much to lower it. As far as brakelines, I fiddled with flaring my own, and then found out that carquest sells them preflared with fittings in different lengths. This was MUCH easier than making them. That is the way I would go if I had it to do over again. Good luck, and keep the pics updated! I wanna see

 

Find a Snap-On tool dealer - Years ago I used to be a certified brake man. All steel brake lines can be either single or doubled flaired. Most are double flaired. Snap -On sells double flairing tool - It might be a little expensive , but its well worth the money for all your future needs. I should get commision from Snap-On for promoting their tools but I can truley tell you they are the best on the market - Good Luck ----- Also I just installed a 4" suspention lift on my 95 F250 and It came with new front leaf springs and 3" blocks for the rear - You mount the blocks under the existing blocks. That way the little wings on the factory blocks can hit the rubber stops when you bottom out. Again good luck, Tim

 

Get everything back in there, and then take your blocks to a shop and have an inch or so cut off. Two inch blocks would be better anyways. Just don't trim them down so much that you don't accomodate for the springs to settle.

 

Anyone ever ground the leaf spring perches off their axles in order to rotate the diff so the pinion angle isn't so extreme? If so how tough of a job was it, it doesn't look all that tuff just time consuming.

 

Serious pita. Much easier to just weld on some wedges to give you the angle you want.

 

Ya I think wedges sound alot easier. Now I just need to figure out my angles and go from there before I tighten down my springs an ubolts and all that good stuff.

 

Wise move

 

Pro,

I hope you don't mind but I painted my pickup flat black with skulls..........


Naaaaaaaaw. I'm just messin with ya. I think I will go with 15" of lift and 49s though....

 

Lemme guess, with TTB

 

Jeeesh, its like you know inside my head! lol