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Air lockers are definately the way to go if you aren't scared to spend that much money. I am gonna run them eventually in my project truck, but expect and ARB to run you $1,000 an axle.
In answer to your question yes I drove that dually everyday, no I didn't have super swampers on it they wouldn't stand up to the loads, and power I was putting out, and most of my driving was on hyway so needed a better load rating, I put between 75k, and 90k miles per year on that truck. I live in Iowa so saw lots of snow, and ice with no problems, you will only have the main problems if you lock up both diffs, personally for me I would put an auto locker such as the detroit in the rear, and if you want to lock up the frt that is where an air locker shines, for my money they are a waste in the rear axle, On slick pavement winter driving a detroit locker is no worse or better than a traklok with the exception that if you have one tire on dry pavment or gravel, and one on ice the tracklok will leave you stranded, and the locker won't. The main difference with a locker is on a corner the outside tire turns faster than the ring gear speed, and on a open diff or a clutch style posi the inside tire turns slower so if you power it in a corner with a locker you will end up spinning the inside tire (kinda sounds familar like every other type of diff out there doesn't it)
BTW with the open diff I changed my rear tires between 63k, and 65k, and with the locker it was between 62k, and 64k not much difference, I looked up my reciepts, and I put 250k miles on that truck with 150 of them with the detroit.
the detroit NoSpin auto locker is ultimately one of the strongest lockers available with the ARB air locker not far behind. i suggest if you wanna go selectable in the rear you can go 2 routes...air or electric.
ARB is the best air locker and you will be impressed, however there is an air line hanging down to snag or bust on something! The coolest thing about the air locker is since you have to run an air compressor most folks add a York compressor and run on-board air. then you have a compressor on your truck to not only run your locker but also to air up tires, run air tools, air horn and whatever else you can think of using a compressor for!
another way to go is the new detroit Electrac. at least if something snags it off it is as easy and putting the wire up, not needing air fittings or have to have an air tight seal! don't rule out the li9ncoln locker up front. that's what i have and i would not ever think about swapping it out. it is never failed me and once i got used to it it became second nature. BTW a lincoln locker is the cheapest and most reliable
-cutts-
BTW....i think i missed this but a lincioln locker is when you weld up the carrier and spider gears inside the diff to lock together!
Last edited by fishmanndotcom; Jul 30, 2004 at 12:45 PM.
Fishy atleast if he used a linclon locker up frt he could afford the air locker in the rear but you definatly don't want to use that on ice, and do not forget to unlock your hubs when you hit solid surfaces. I keep breaking the welds loose on my rearend so ended up going with a full spool, and just pulled the locker out of the front, and put in a spool, Told the wife if she ever sees me with one tire not spinning it means I broke something.
lol...i broke the welds in my front whern i first did it but it was bound up from a couple of broken teeth....so i re-welded it where it was and i have put it through hell and back with my 39's and everytime i take my front diff cover off i look to see if it has moved and it hasn't budged! if anything it has gotten stronger, lol. you are right you gotta watch when and where you lock yuour hubs but like i said earlier when they are locked in you know it for sure!
Dual purpose rigs just don't work. Getting a selectable locker out back will be your best bet with that grand. After that...you need to decide whether you want to have a 4-wheeler or a cruiser. You'd be best off getting another vehicle to use as your daily driver. Escort, F150 (300/302 with a 5 speed and highway gears (3.08-3.55), something like that, you know? Even a Ranger. Something that will give you gas mileage and you don't have to feel bad about the miles. Those miles you're putting on there right now are eating away at those tires you've got. You can't get much more serious then you are now without really sacrificing the truck's capacity on the road. 4.56, 5.13, X.XX give you power, but your truck is gonna be turning bad rpm's for highway. My opinion is not as valuable as Monsterbaby's, Cutt's, or any of the other guys - I won't pretend that it is, these guys KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. I just know that Dual purpose rigs are a bad idea. Make this truck your mud dog, get yourself a beater for work, and call it good. Anybody ever gives you crap about driving a little Escort or something, the next day you show up in that big, bad F250 of yours and say "What was that you were saying about my ride? I suppose now would be a bad time to mention that my THIRD ride is your mom, eh?"
My F150 pulls 15-17mpg on the highway. An Escort runs 34-36mpg in the same stretch. Either one would be a better fit for you to drop BIG miles on.
As far as that front end goes....why couldn't he have the spiders welded up front? He has lockouts, right? He doesn't run his front engaged all the time, so where's the harm in that? Not that the front end really helps nearly as much as the rear in the mud...but it'd be a cheap way to get him moving still. Selectable Locker in the rear, weld up the front...that's about as far as he could go right now. If the rig were to be dedicated to 4-wheeling...spools front and back would be fine for him once he does his Dana 60 switch, right?
I hope you're gonna have more money down the road. If I were staying in Iowa for longer then I plan to...I'd have myself a 78 with everything I need to go. 351m, C6 (needs rebuild - a good thing to me), Dana 60's front and rear. Just need a spool in the back, rebuild the C6, and get my friend I'd buy it from to sell me the tires off his Jeep and get those bigger tires he wants. Know what I mean? But...I can't do that, so...
I could have the truck for 400 bucks, too. Rebuilt C6 from Advance for 300-400, or rebuild it myself for less. Tires...another 400 or so bucks to him there and I'd have myself a rig.
As far as that front end goes....why couldn't he have the spiders welded up front? He has lockouts, right? He doesn't run his front engaged all the time, so where's the harm in that? Not that the front end really helps nearly as much as the rear in the mud...but it'd be a cheap way to get him moving still. Selectable Locker in the rear, weld up the front...that's about as far as he could go right now. If the rig were to be dedicated to 4-wheeling...spools front and back would be fine for him once he does his Dana 60 switch, right?
that's why i did it to mine! and BTW....the front end would REALLY surprise you esp since a good bit of the weight is on top of the front axle! it does do it's share of pullin', i tell'ya what! (in a Hank Hill (king of the hill) voice)
and yes this hobby gets vewry expensive...you learn real quick (like i have) to fab up and build stuff on your own! i am about to swap in a different transfer case in my truck and get new driveshafts and even twinsticked it all for $100, the cost of the t-case! i mean look at my front and rear bumpers....stronger than warns winch mounts and they cost me $5.88 in welding rods and nuts/bolts.
I agree about getting a DD along with a trail truck! i am looking for a tow rig right now myself! if i break something on my big truck i wanna know i can get home and still be able to go to skool on monday morning!
-cutts-
Last edited by fishmanndotcom; Jul 30, 2004 at 01:43 PM.
As far as that front end goes....why couldn't he have the spiders welded up front? He has lockouts, right? He doesn't run his front engaged all the time, so where's the harm in that? Not that the front end really helps nearly as much as the rear in the mud...but it'd be a cheap way to get him moving still. Selectable Locker in the rear, weld up the front...that's about as far as he could go right now. If the rig were to be dedicated to 4-wheeling...spools front and back would be fine for him once he does his Dana 60 switch, right?
Dual purpose rigs can work, but it is WAY easier with a dedicated DD.
Welding the spiders would be the way I'd go with if I didn't live in the snow&ice belt.. front&rear spools suck on ice...
if i was in your shoes before i did anything,id find a buddy with a very nasty truck that will be able to pull that big 250 out.and go try it,go play in the local holes that everyone goes to.all of our trucks werent built overnight,they slowly evolved(except pro,he said "let there be truck").find you a big sloppy clay hole,lock it in 4-lo and GIT R' DONE.you'll get addicted,and the four wheeling gods will direct you as to which your next major outlay of cash will be.
best advice anyone can ever give you is to get to know your abilities as well as your trucks! take it one step at a time! i would not suggest doing lockers, motor rebuild, frame shortening, roll cage, and electrical upgrade all at once! costs too much and that would take forever get in! my truck has taken shape over the course of the last year and has really been chiseled in the past few months.
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