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here's the problem,when I brake from 30mph approx the front end of my 94 f150 shudders quite violently, when braking from 5 mph or slower I can feel the brakes pulse/grabbing, when braking at higher speeds nothing unusual happens,there is nothing unusual felt thru the pedel.I have been told that there is a slightly worn ball joint, I'm wondering if the ABS is cuput or is it a warped disc.Any ideas?? also thinking of replacing the ball joint myself and then taking the truck in to have an alignment.Is the ball joints an unreasonably complex job??
I would say warped rotors are your problem, but that bad ball joint would add some extra play in the front end. is your truck a 4x4 or two wheel drive, cause if its 4x4 theres a little more work involved in changing a ball joint. I bought a ball joint press it does make it easier, you can pound them out, but I find that a little prutal.
if you do alittle research you can do it, search the forum abit for how to's, buy a haynes manual. do like I do if your not sure just ask lots of questions, if your mechanicly inclined you can do it.
My '93 4X4 did the same thing until last week. The Line-Up shop replaced a suspension bushing on the passenger side, and that seems to have partially cured the problem (it's now a mild shudder instead of a violent shudder). It's in the shop today getting rotors and pads, which I hope will take care of the rest of the problem.
When I test drove my truck before buying it a few weeks ago, it did the same thing. The more (harder) I pressed the pedal, the more violent the shudder. I told the salesman, and he sent it off to get new rotors (actually they just turned the existing rotors). It runs fine now (and is sitting in my driveway).
ford and their rotors, I wonder if a guy can get slotted ones, or crossed drilled rotors for our trucks, the stock ones must not be able to take the heat and warp, I've always had rotor trouble with ford pickups they never seem to last very long before they warp.aleast in my experience
I've never had problems with Ford rotors. I know a company called Powerstop makes cross-drilled rotors for Dodges, so they might make them for Fords as well.
Generally, heat doesn't cause warping. I've seen rotors with hot spots and severe heat checks that weren't warped. Generally when a rotor warps it's because it's gone past the limit and needs to be replaced.
It also depends on how you drive the vehicle. If you ride the brakes all the time, you're going to get problems. If you pull a heavy trailer with no brakes, then you're going to go through pads quickly.
Also, if your rear brakes are glazed or grinding and you don't know it, they aren't as effective, and your front brakes have to pick up the slack.
I shouldn't say ford rotors, cause I use after market, and there probably offshore, I've had those warp on me when there new, on my 1977 f150 4x4 I always bought new jober rotors apposed to having them turned, the rotors were like 25.00 each and to turn two of them was like 20.00 and you would have to remove them drive down to get them turned, usually while you wait.
andym I might try some of those crossed drilled ones from this powerstop company.
Thanks folks I guess I'm doing a brake job and ball joints this holiday weekend ,polarbear Ive just replaced the radius arm bushings a month ago was that what you ment I've also replaced the front shocks
FYI. I just ordered a set of EBS rotors today from tirerack.com. They are slotted and dimpled. They look really sharp and are only $180 for the pair. I called the local parts store and with my discount I was looking at $125/piece for slotted only rotors. Granted the stockers are about $50 a piece, but I think the extra $80 will be worth the increase stopping, and less noise.
Does anyone know where you can get braided stainless steel brake lines for mid 90's F-150? Tirerack listed them for my truck be the company hasn't actually started making them yet. *L* I love my Ford, but it does seem that I am working on the front-end more than anything else on the truck.
Me too 190,000 Km and had to pretty well replace everything including the engine at 150,000 when the oil pump gave up, after the water pump have up after the clutch on the fan came apart wrecking the Rad . Not sure if I would buy another. ( Wife might turn me into a statistic )
Ive just replaced the radius arm bushings a month ago
Yep, that's the one. Got it back today- they also had to replace the front calipers. They could've replaced the seals, but it's cheaper to just replace them (at least when you're paying shop hours). Vibration/shudder is completely gone- I'm a happy guy!