third brake light
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third brake light
I HAVE A 1996 FORD EXPLORER, THE THIRD BRAKE LIGHT DOES NOT BURN. I HAVE CHECKED THE FUSES AND EVEN REPLACED THE LIGHT WITH ONE FROM A SALVAGE YARD. THE LIGHT STILL DOES NOT WORK. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cedar Rapids USA
third brake light
Here's how I read the schematic. Light-green wire out of brake switch goes to splice S212 (about 8 wires into this splice). Out of the splice one light-green goes to the lower brake lamps, through connector C212. Also out of the splice is a dark-green going to the same connector. The dark-green continues from C212 and heads to connector C320. Out of that connector it goes to the High Mount Stop Lamp. The lamp should be grounded via a black wire. Interior fuse 13 feeds the entire circuit so it must be fine since you get lower lights.
Take your lamp back apart. Verify 12V on the dark-green wire to a good ground when pedal depressed. If 0V, check for those connectors. If 12V then check the ground wire. Verify continuity between the black wire and a good ground.
This ought to do it. Good luck.
Take your lamp back apart. Verify 12V on the dark-green wire to a good ground when pedal depressed. If 0V, check for those connectors. If 12V then check the ground wire. Verify continuity between the black wire and a good ground.
This ought to do it. Good luck.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Kelseyville, CA
third brake light
>WHEN I SAID I REPLACED THE LIGHT, I MEANT THE ENTIRE METAL
>BAR, WHERE THE WIRES ATTACH.
>
>THANKS,
>J BRANHAM
I'm not quite sure what you replaced now. The florescent light and ballast are two separate items although they might come together if purchased from Ford for about $280. I haven't had to replace mine yet but from what I remember it is a rectangular black box probably under the trim in the rear hatch. The light is riveted on to the back hatch by about 7 rivets. Either one could fail. If you replaced only one, then the other is likely the problem.
Robert
>BAR, WHERE THE WIRES ATTACH.
>
>THANKS,
>J BRANHAM
I'm not quite sure what you replaced now. The florescent light and ballast are two separate items although they might come together if purchased from Ford for about $280. I haven't had to replace mine yet but from what I remember it is a rectangular black box probably under the trim in the rear hatch. The light is riveted on to the back hatch by about 7 rivets. Either one could fail. If you replaced only one, then the other is likely the problem.
Robert
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Joined: Jan 2006
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How do I find the splices S212 from a wire diagram
I have Haynes repair manual for my 95 Ford Explorer. My two lower brake lights are not working. What do the number such as s2112 and c212 mean in the Haynes manual and where do I find these connection points on my car.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
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If the lower lights are not working I would look underneath and see if you have damage or corrosion or more likely some bad splicing for trailer wiring, I find that alot.
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Elder User
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Ballast on 95 - 97 Explorers typically go bad before the neon light assembly. Ford only used this third brake light set up for those years. Thank goodness since they are expensive to replace and trouble-prone. If you replaced the light assembly then, like reberhardt said, it is likely the ballast. You may want to ensure that you have 12 volts DC before the ballast. The ballast increases the voltage tremedously before sending it to the light assembly.
Mason
Mason
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Joined: May 1999
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From: Clarksville, TN
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=7]Another possibility is that the neon tube itself has fractured (which was my problem).
I got by with using an LED lightbar from AutoZone for $20...lasted for two years. Finally broke down and got a new assy from Ford for $212.
I got by with using an LED lightbar from AutoZone for $20...lasted for two years. Finally broke down and got a new assy from Ford for $212.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Thanks for everyone's replies on helping me with this problem.
It turns out the problem is with the Lamp Outage Module that sits below the console. I notice on many web forums a lot people have had trouble with this. I think it is because the wires that plug into the module card is very tight, and after time the pins lose connection.
I have been able to fix my problem by bending the pins so they connect again. The card appears to be working fine.
It turns out the problem is with the Lamp Outage Module that sits below the console. I notice on many web forums a lot people have had trouble with this. I think it is because the wires that plug into the module card is very tight, and after time the pins lose connection.
I have been able to fix my problem by bending the pins so they connect again. The card appears to be working fine.
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