Engine Removal/Installation Advice
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 4
From: Montana
Engine Removal/Installation Advice
I'm looking for advice and suggestions on removing and installing a motor in my pickup. I've never done an engine swap before but think this is something I'm capable of.
My pickup is a 79 F150 4wd with a 351m and a C6. A local shop will be building me a new 400. They're basically going to deliver a running motor and I will be swapping it with the existing motor in my truck. All the existing emissions stuff will be removed.
So, does anyone have suggestions, things for me to watch out for, advice, tools I'll need (other than the obvious), or a good source of information to help me do this?
Thanks!
My pickup is a 79 F150 4wd with a 351m and a C6. A local shop will be building me a new 400. They're basically going to deliver a running motor and I will be swapping it with the existing motor in my truck. All the existing emissions stuff will be removed.
So, does anyone have suggestions, things for me to watch out for, advice, tools I'll need (other than the obvious), or a good source of information to help me do this?
Thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,323
Likes: 2
From: Montana Territory
Don't use that carb lift plate... either bolt it into the intake manifold, or into the cylinder head.
Don't try to remove the mounts while its in the vehicle, just remove the pivot bolt, its a lot easier and safer.
Once you get the bellhousing and flexplate/flywheel unbolted, you need to hook your cherry picker to the engine, lots of stubby fingers are the result of not doing this.
If you have A/C, have the system professionally evacuated, venting this stuff into the air is dangerous.
Start soaking the exhaust system connectors in PB blaster a few days before you attempt to take them out.
If something starts binding, stop immediately. I can't stress this enough. The studs on the torque convertor aren't very strong.
If you are pulling the engine & transmission together, its easier to remove the front clip, that or replace a broke windshield.
Don't try to remove the mounts while its in the vehicle, just remove the pivot bolt, its a lot easier and safer.
Once you get the bellhousing and flexplate/flywheel unbolted, you need to hook your cherry picker to the engine, lots of stubby fingers are the result of not doing this.
If you have A/C, have the system professionally evacuated, venting this stuff into the air is dangerous.
Start soaking the exhaust system connectors in PB blaster a few days before you attempt to take them out.
If something starts binding, stop immediately. I can't stress this enough. The studs on the torque convertor aren't very strong.
If you are pulling the engine & transmission together, its easier to remove the front clip, that or replace a broke windshield.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 0
From: WA
I found that the Gearwrenches were invaluable for getting the motor mount bolts out, and very useful in a few other places as well.
Get the book "How to Rebuild Ford Engines V8", it has lots of useful tips on installation and removal.
Make sure you get all the bellhousing bolts out before you try to slide the engine forward.
Get some long bolts of the same size as the bellhousing bolts, cut the heads off and use them as guides when sliding the bellhousing onto the tranny, makes alignment a breeze.
As you remove bolts, label them. I used paper cups and wrote on them where the bolts came from. I also bought a stainless bolt set.
Replace all your vacuum and any other rubber hoses while you are in there.
Get the book "How to Rebuild Ford Engines V8", it has lots of useful tips on installation and removal.
Make sure you get all the bellhousing bolts out before you try to slide the engine forward.
Get some long bolts of the same size as the bellhousing bolts, cut the heads off and use them as guides when sliding the bellhousing onto the tranny, makes alignment a breeze.
As you remove bolts, label them. I used paper cups and wrote on them where the bolts came from. I also bought a stainless bolt set.
Replace all your vacuum and any other rubber hoses while you are in there.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 6
From: SD
Use a floor jack to support the transmission when you remove the engine, or it will fall to the floor - that's wouldn't be good.
You may not need to discharge a/c, if you can unbolt the compressor and set it to the side.
When reinstalling the engine, the studs in the torque converter have to go through the flexplate holes before the engine is bolt together or things will break.
Marty
You may not need to discharge a/c, if you can unbolt the compressor and set it to the side.
When reinstalling the engine, the studs in the torque converter have to go through the flexplate holes before the engine is bolt together or things will break.
Marty
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 4
From: Montana
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 56
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If you can once you remove a bolt or nut and take that particular piece apart put the nut or bolt back where it came from I/E once you remove the water pump from the block reinstall the fasteners that held it to the block. This will eliminate alot of items to be labeled.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stationed in----- Yucca Valley, CA
Depending on the age and condition of your C-6, I would replace the front seal. It is much easier to get to now than when your new motor is in...
I also drain my torque converter while I can get to it; and obviously drain the tranny pan and change filter at the same time. BE SURE you fully engage the t converter to the front pump (rotate while installing on the input shaft; should be three distinct engagements) If not you will not get the front pump engaged and could burn up the tranny.
I made photocopys of the pertinent pages of HOW TO REBUILD YOUR FORD V-8 and used them for reference in the garage; it kept my book away from the grease...
MAKE SURE YOU BREAK THE MOTOR (CAM) IN PROPERLY.
Fully charged battery, fill the carb bowls with fuel before starting, prime the oil pump with an old distributor (gear removed) and a power drill (CCW), then- run the engine at first startup for minimum 20 minutes at no less than 2000 rpm. I run a hose in the radiator at a slow rate and let the petcock drain to ensure it stays cool. Watch oil press., temp, and for leaks. DON'T let it idle until this break in is done.
Good luck!
I also drain my torque converter while I can get to it; and obviously drain the tranny pan and change filter at the same time. BE SURE you fully engage the t converter to the front pump (rotate while installing on the input shaft; should be three distinct engagements) If not you will not get the front pump engaged and could burn up the tranny.
I made photocopys of the pertinent pages of HOW TO REBUILD YOUR FORD V-8 and used them for reference in the garage; it kept my book away from the grease...
MAKE SURE YOU BREAK THE MOTOR (CAM) IN PROPERLY.
Fully charged battery, fill the carb bowls with fuel before starting, prime the oil pump with an old distributor (gear removed) and a power drill (CCW), then- run the engine at first startup for minimum 20 minutes at no less than 2000 rpm. I run a hose in the radiator at a slow rate and let the petcock drain to ensure it stays cool. Watch oil press., temp, and for leaks. DON'T let it idle until this break in is done.
Good luck!
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
hmmm, rats, everybody has said it all already. 
So i'll just add a dumb one I guess , be sure your state has no intentions of emissions standards being introduced in your city in the next few years. If so, that would render your truck non -roadworthy. btw , thats a cool truck your building,
So i'll just add a dumb one I guess , be sure your state has no intentions of emissions standards being introduced in your city in the next few years. If so, that would render your truck non -roadworthy. btw , thats a cool truck your building,