1998 4.6 spark plug change

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Jul 25, 2004 | 02:30 PM

kevinamber

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Joined: Jul 2004

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From: cabot arkansas

1998 4.6 spark plug change

I bought a 98 xlt with 88000 on it. It has a slow idle miss.I changed the air filter and it was way dirty and said motercraft on it, so i figure it was never changed in 88000 miles!
I bet the plugs have never been changed either!
I have been told its a real hard job. Like a 3 hour ordeal!
is this true? Should i pay to let someone else do it?
I changed my plugs in all my other trucks with no problem.
Can someone tell me the do's and donts?

Jul 25, 2004 | 02:44 PM

cbsaf

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From: Alabama/Florida

Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual and do each of the steps in the book. The only hard thing about it is getting all the unrelated parts out of the way if you consider that hard. After that it is just taking out the old and putting in the new. Just take your time and keep all the parts you take off with their bolts and remember how they go back on. The plugs should cost you $20.00 at the most. If you take it to have them changed it will cost you at least $120.00 and that isn't worth it to me.

Jul 25, 2004 | 05:25 PM

Racerguy

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Joined: Aug 2002

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From: BC, Canada

Hi kevinamber and welcome to the forum

For some more tips on replacing your spark plugs take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=104027

Jul 25, 2004 | 06:29 PM

jbm

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You can do it. Read the FAQ it outlines it well. Make sure the plug wells are blown out. Use compressed air and blow them out. Debris builds up which prevents the socket from going over the the plug. Remove FI wire so it does not get in your way. Use dielectric grease on the the wire connection and do the outside of the boot so you can get it off next time. DO NOT cross thread the plugs when installing. Start by finger. DO NOt over tighten. Take your time and think about what you are doing. It's not that big of a deal.

Jul 26, 2004 | 05:07 PM

JH6

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I use a shop vac to suck the debris out of the plug hole insted of blowing it into the motor deeper.

The 4.6 is a piece of cake, just get some good plug boot pliars because you will not be able to get the factory plug wires out with your hand. Pull the boot not the wire.

Antiseize is a must on the new plug threads and a torque wrench is your friend. do it on a cold motor also.

Jul 26, 2004 | 09:02 PM

coolk614724

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There not to bad try doing plugs on a new v10 the rear are the worst to do - I work for uhaul and the last truck i did was a v10 in a e-350 and our labor book gives you 3.8 it only took about 2.7 but those you dont have individual coils which are a pain make sure to put some anti-sieze on the new plugs and check your gap ( i have found sever "pre-gaped" plugs not even close to where they should be)

good luck

Jul 26, 2004 | 10:27 PM

JaguarXJ6

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I just did this job 24hrs ago..

I just did this yesterday for my Father's 1997 F250 with about 100k miles, the first time ever touching the truck with a wrench; a universal joint is your friend.

I found a pair of pliers helped in removing two of the eight coils, one near the firewall passenger bank and the other under the brake fluid reservoir.

Compressed air (don't be stingy with it) before the plugs are removed will help blow out and free the debris, all dust in my case, and helped me immensely.

The plugs were Motorcraft originals that were nubs worn down to a .058-.060 gap and I replaced them with Motorcraft plugs gapped at .054.

Start to finish, three beers, three knuckle grazes, 3 hours, and ~30 USD or so in plugs. Compared to my car, the truck was a major PITA!

Sunny