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as for starting... I know an EFI vehicle will always start up the first time you try, but if you have a well tuned carb engine, it doesn't have to crank as long to do the same thing. A touch of the key, tap on the gas to give an accel pump shot, and you're running, except in mega-bad weather. Trust me, I've driven my share of both... you can go to wantlandracing.com and see some of the vehicles I own/have owned/work on/play with/etc.
Next time you get in your EFI car, just tap the key to start for a second... don't hold it, just a tap. See if it starts. It won't, because it hasn't even built fuel pressure yet. It's not that it's not more reliable; it probably is, I just love the feeling of having my engine fire the instant the starter engages, and there is no way to have that without having some fuel always sitting right there on top of the engine.
The problem with efficiency in carbs is that they don't continuously correct the amount of fuel they give the engine based on real time inputs, I'll give you that. I still say it's more efficient to have that self-atomizing fuel though. Anyway, it is possible to closely approximate normal driving conditions when setting up a carb, and it shouldn't get dramatically lower mileage than a comparable EFI engine.
As for moving parts, although FI is electronically controlled, it is still a mechanical process, and a more complicated one, I believe, than carburetion. In a few years, when stuff starts wearing out, you start swapping fuel injectors, and I'll start rebuilding my four barrel at the same time, and we'll see who gets done first.
It's all in fun man, and the way you look at it. Some things are simpler to some people, but more complex to others. To each their own, I say.
Hey, wait till they get that electronically controlled valve thing going. Where you don't need a throttle anymore, because they control the idle with the valve opening.....
You mean the IAC??? Idle Air Control motor or solenoid whichever the case may be... They do have drive by wire now with no link from you to the throttle. Just a variable resistor under your foot.
Yes, I knows about that. But this is the next step, or maybe three steps beyond that: I'm talkin' the intake and exhaust valves are electronically controlled. No cam or any of the other flying junk that connects it to the valves.
Try to tune that baby with a screw driver and a match book striker.
I have read about two types, one was direct electromechanical actuation and the other one was hydraulic. An engine already has a built in hydraulic pump
the closest thing to a computer in my truck is the cd player and the amp. unless you want to count the electronic ignition, i have no use for a computer controlled car. that is what a good trained ear, and actually payin attention to your vehicle can do for ya, instead of waitin for a light to come on, and have somethin even bigger pop up, just my .02, hope i didnt offend
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