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Getting back down to business...

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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 04:38 PM
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Getting back down to business...

I come back from a tour of the Big Bend and find things are much the same as they were left. There have been slow incremental improvements on the three deuce installation... slow because I'm back at work teaching Theater Arts students how to draw and sculpt.

Had to reset the bowl float and install a new power valve. Redid the vacuum line from center carb to distributor. Suspect vacuum leak somewhere... where else is left? (Please not the trottle plates!) Spent much time reading and rereading Carl's excellent Holley 94 article... and everything else that pertains to this type of setup.

Results: It starts and runs but doesn't idle well... can't seem to get the adjustment right. Idle adjustment on the linkage is almost bottomed out and am trying different combinations of settings on the idle/air screw mixture. (ie. close screws completely then back off 1 full turn, or 1.5 turns, or a half turn... what's left?)

There is an excess of whiteish smoke and loud rumble from my pipes. Wondering, 1) will a from the beginning tuneup be in order, 2) have I got serious vacuum leak problems in my end carbs, 3) where the heck is Carl?

Nice to be back, boys. rested and relaxed, himmelberg
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 04:48 PM
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Do you still have the choke plates on the end carbs?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 05:43 PM
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Sure don't, Nathan...
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 06:52 PM
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I have an Holley 94 carb article that says the choke plates promote better airflow and improve HP.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 07:21 PM
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the dueces

Hi Him

I've got a really good friend who's running 3- 2s on a SBC in a T-bucket.

He had a similar problem... let me get him off the river long enough to talk to him and see what his ideas are.... seems I remember an elusive vacuum leak also...

as an idea ?? have you checked the seal at the intake manifold to head ?? is the manifold surface dead flat there ?? might need to shave off a .001 or two ?? just a thought..

more when I know more...

John
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 08:57 PM
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What is causing the white smoke? It is my understanding that you are either burning oil or moisture to get the white smoke. Does the white smoke clear up shortly after the engine starts? If so you probably are pulling oil past the valve guides. If it continues you might have to consider the moisture leak somewhere.
When you are adjusting the carb for idle do you use a vacuum gauge to get maximum vacuum? It should be running strictly off of the idle circuit. Good Luck.

Gear Up
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 04:35 AM
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Nathan... I read that too, but it doesn't seem to apply to progressive linkage where all I'm using is the wide open circuit on the end carbs past 60% of my main carb throttle... but will continue to look into that. It may apply to horsepower, but right now I just want to be able to drive it.

John... mating surfaces seemed dead flat across the manifold before I installed it. Will check into that and standby for further info.

Gear... if John's surmise is correct there might be some moisture sneaking into the cylinders. Then, too, I wouldn't discount oil... but, we didn't have that problem with the old manifold and the same carb that is my center carb on the tripower. I don't know how to use a vacuum gauge in manner you describe. Please advise and thanks all. himmelberg
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 05:28 AM
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vac gauge

Peter,

best my old mind can remember... hook up a vacuum gauge to a non metered vac source.... (below the carb). tune your vac source till you get the highest vacuum reading on the gauge...

john
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 10:21 AM
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When you say you have tried turning the idle adjusting screws in all the way, was the engine running? I would say that would be strange if it were. The way I adjust the idle is to warm the engine up to normal operating temp. Then I turn each adjusting screw in slowly until the engine starts to sputter a little. Then I turn it back out 1/2 turn. Then repeat for the other screw. If you can turn the screws in without the idle effecting the idle speed, then I think you have your throttle adjusting screw set too high. If you do this, then your idle screws will be inaffective and you will get smoke at the tailpipe because you are too rich. (sonds familiar doesn't it) I inadvertantly did this last year and Dewayne had to set me straight. Good luck, John
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 10:54 AM
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Cool John... I've got a big ol vacuum port in the manifold into which runs my new pcv setup courtesy of Roger. You should see it, it's a beauty.

Jag John ... I start with the engine off, using the screws in as a starting point I back it off 1 full turn or whatever. This is to be the starting point for my idle... which it has yet to do unattended. I need a more reliable helper in the cockpit while I'm under the hood. Mrs. H. is not much help.

Your comment, however, sparks an idea. Hmmm... there are three settings for the accelerator pump shaft... maybe I'll look there. Throttle adjustment runs there too.... thanks guys. himmelberg
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 12:59 PM
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I think I know what you mean by the three position adjustment. I do not think that will help anything on the idle. It seems to me that affects amont of fuel going into the carburator when you are in accelleration mode. My carb has a bolt that is adjustable and is in contact with the dashpot. To set my idle, I made sure that bolt was not holding the throttle open and that the throttle connection was slack. That way the throttle shaft was in the closed position. Sorry to run on, but I just wanted to be sure I wasn't making the situation even worse. Good luck, John
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 04:31 PM
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Peter

Will the engine idle at all? If so you can check for vacuum leaks with an aerosol can of carb spray carefully directed at potential leaks (like throttle shafts). If you find a leak the rpm will usually raise a bit. Keep it off hot surfaces or it will vaporize, get sucked into the air cleaner and confuse the issue.

Are we certain the ignition is working correctly? If you played with the ignition and added multiple carbs at once it really complicates the diagnosis. But you'll get through it. Just make sure you're ignition is correct. I never make any radical adjustments to carbs until the spark is right.

The white smoke is oil, condensation or engine coolant burning off. In wouldn't stress it if it subsides after start up. Start worrying if it is accompanied by a sweet exhaust smell and engine temperature increase.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 07:08 PM
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A full social schedule... lunch with the Russell's... and putting an egr valve in Mrs. H's Lincoln has set my truck back a bit but....

Moved the accelerator linkage and backed off the idle screw that resides nearby. Starts and idles much better and no smoke. Idle mixture screws are set at one full turn out from the bottom.

In the AM we are going to address the ignition AGAIN... I agree, 'fenders... the thing appears to be timing related now. Will do the points, condenser, dwell, timing.

A side note on the 5.0 in the Lincoln. Bought a cheap code reader and found it to be neat stuff. Not as much fun as the truck, but I am less intimidated by that 'girly' engine now. Thanks for the encouragement. himmelberg
 
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