Hey all,

I've got a '73 F250 4wd. It has a 360 with a 2bbl carb in it. It was sitting out behind my Grandpa's barn for years and now I've finally got it running. Right now I am cleaning out the gas tank and replacing all the fuel lines and filters. I need to either rebuild the carb or replace it. The float sticks all the time. The power valve leaks (I think) and it smells of varnish. Also, every time I go to start it, I have to pour some fuel in the carb to get it to fire. Every time. My question is this- If I replace the 2 bbl carb with a 4bbl, do I have to change intake manifolds? I can't really do that at this time. If I can change just the carb, what make/model/size carb do you recommend? I would like to use the truck avenger by Holley if possible.

Thanks again for all the great info,
Abrams

 

Well, here is what I did with my 352. Purchase a 4bbl to 2bbl adapter from Mr. gasket. This is designed to put a 2bbl on a 4bbl intake.......BUT.......you can also install it upside down and put a 4bbl on a 2bbl intake. IT CAN BE DONE. I also needed to install a 1/2" spacer under carb so that butterflies would clear the adapter. No big deal, any plain open spacer will work.

You can mock up the assy before putting it on the truck so that you know it will work. When ready to install on truck, bolt on adapter to intake using socket head bolts supplied with adapter. Then install 1/2" spacer, then carb(you will need longer studs due to spacer-maybe the spacer you get will have studs with it?).

Once it's all bolted down, make yourself a new linkage for carb using threaded rod and heim ends you can purchase at local hardware(lowe's or such). Take all that flim/flam Ford linkage crap and throw it away. No need for it.

A new fuel line is all that is needed.

Now granted if you have automatic tranny, you will need a carb that is compatible(kickdown linkage). If you have a stick shift, it will not matter. I run a plain stock 750 vacuum Holley. Way too much overall but I had it and it works. A 600 vacuum Holley would be sufficient.

If you don't care if carb has kickdown, then it again won't matter what you buy. There is a handle on the steering column that you can manually downshift the tranny if you like anyway.

Good Luck

 

Thanks Man!

That is just the info I was looking for. Did you notice much of an increase in power even though you kept the stock intake maninfold?

Thanks,
Abrams

 

you could buy a holley 2 barrel, i used to have one, they work great.

 

I would recommend the 500cfm Holley 2-barrel. It should flow MORE THAN ENOUGH for that engine. What will really wake it up is headers and dual exhaust.

360's are good motors. Have fun!

 

The power gain would not be as much as a 4V manifold, but a well tuned 4V carb will get better fuel mileage while you save up for the manifold. Provided of course that your brains don't slip to your foot.LOL

 

Well, I decided to rebuild the carb. It took about 4 hours for me after ditching the crappy instructions and just looking at the Haynes manual diagram. I never realized how much dirt could be in a carb! I bet I cleaned about an ounce of debris and varnish particles out of the carb. It runs so smooth and powerful under throttle now that I can't believe I didn't do this before. Only question I have is, should I have to pump it everytime before I start it? right now, I have to pump it about 3 times before every start.

Thanks,
Abrams

 

Heh, the old 3 pumps. Check your choke.

My old Holley had a manual choke and I had to do the 3 pumps if I didn't close the choke, which I never did.

 

I did not notice any power gains at all, really. It just starts/runs/ a WHOLE lot better. Man, I hate those Autolite carbs!!!

As for mileage....NO DIFFERENT, at all. Still 10 mpg(as long as I don't try to play ricky-racer with it. It don't make enough power to do that anyway).

Glad you got yours running good. It does not take much to screw them up. All those little air passages are there for a reason.

Mine always takes one pump(when cold) to start, maybe two-three if near freezing. If already hot, it fires without touching. I have the choke plate REMOVED, and only use the high idle portion. I hate those plates, it always get touchy with them...so I take them off. Works perfect(for me!).

 

just fyi. somtimes you can get the 4bbl manfolds cheap.(the old ones) I picked one up at a local used auto parts store for $35

 

you could get a carb kit and a new float for about $36 if the carb is in fair shape that is what i did to get me by until i could afford an holley 4 b and alum. intake but my carb was replaced in the late 80's and is a ford carb, so i had no trouble with finding parts.

 

Remember, if you change that manifold, you need 3 guys and/or a crane....

 

Hey, I did it myself! It's not a problem if you're in good physical shape.

 

My hat's on sideways to ya'. I must be a baby....cause I needed help and the darn rear gasket still pooped out.....

 

Yeah I kind of cheated, I used RTV. Still got it on right the first time though. Kind of trickey holding that thing up there trying to get the water pump hose lined up before letting it touch the RTV.