Where would be the best place to put the thermo couple and what would the max temp be ?

Thanks In Advance

 

Driver's side manifold,from under the truck you will see a flat spot on the manifold.Max temp is 1275F for 13 seconds after that you can watch your turbo fins pour out the tail pipe.

 

Oh Oh! You could start the pre or post turbo debate all over. Get yourself a beer and a snack. Do a search for pre turbo or post turbo or thermocouple and read for a long time.

BTW. I have read the rumors on thermocouples breaking off and going through the turbo. So far it is "I know this guy...." or "I heard about...." but I have yet to hear from someone it has happened to first hand. I chalk it up to urban legend.

 

After much debate and research, I went with the pre turbo location King metions above - the flat spot on rear of the driver's side exhaust manifold.

At BD-Power where I got my X-Monitor, they recommended post turbo due the the minute posibility of probe breakage. They said that it was extremely rare. I talked to a couple different guys there and got different opinions even.

The pre turbo location will yield more accurate and meaningful measurements that will more quickly track the turbo inlet temperature. The post turbo location is unquestionably safe with regard to probe breakage, but due to the variable amount of heat loss through the turbo to the post turbo probe location, the measurements are less useful. There can be anywhere from a 200 or 300 degrees of temperature difference between pre and post locations or more.

When I looked at the post turbo down pipe and having to unwrap the heat tape and try and get a bung welded on I finally said the heck with it and went pre turbo.

If you do a search on the topic you'll find tons of posts and you can make your own decision.

I actually removed my drivers side exhaust manifold and drilled and tapped it off the vehicle, but most folks here have gone ahead and done the drill and tap with the manifold in place and none have had any problems.

With the stock tune on the motor the maximum temp that I've seen towing my 10,000+ lb toyhauler tailer up an 8% or more grade in 100 deg F heat was 1150 deg F - full throttle for several minutes. Typical temps are in the 1000 to 1100 deg F range for long pulls up hill. It cools down very quickly as you back out of the throttle and head back down hill.

I will be pulling the trailer to Big Bear Lakes this weekend and will see how the Tow Safe mode of the Superchips tuner works.

Daryl

 

I went with the left manifold as well.. I'm running a Predator (65 HP tune), and wanted an 'accurate as possible' reading.. No guessing.. No exhaust/intake upgrades just yet, to lower the 'available' temps.. And, it's in stock config.. Not doing any 'heavy' towing yet either, and haven't seen any temps over 1100 running with the HP tune on a hard throttle.. There's a few pics of my probe location in my gallery..

Read 'all' that the EGT probe install threads have to offer.. They will share max temps, and locations that are varied as well..

The key is 'lowest' temps possible during WOT and/or on heavy pulls.. MAX temps seem to be varied by lenght of the burn/load ect.. I wouldn't want to see mine over 1250 for any lenght of time.. My own preference/redline..

..................................HP.............. ...............

 

I must have the hottest running truck out there. I can get 1250-1300* running stock. I have seen 1400* using the module.

Mark

 

you are from vegas, so that could account for some of it, do the cali emissions vehicles make higher temps?

 

Those temps are not good for your truck. Just something to think about.

 

The highest I've see with the truck stock was 1150 deg F pulling my 10 k trailer up a long steep grade in 100 deg F heat. Typical temps are in the 1000 to 1100 deg F range while pulling.

I will be pulling the trailer to Big Bear this weekend in the SC Tow Safe mode and will report on the temps I see.

Daryl

 

Hayapower,
Nice looking install! Did you do this yourself, and if so, what size bit did you use to start with? I also like your mounting option, which is unobtrusive.
Thanks,
John Russell

 

Just found some pics that's a little scary

From the posts this is a stock 04 6.0 psd with 1660 miles and according to the techs there was no fault codes .

#7 piston ???
http://photos.ford-trucks.com/showph...t=1&thecat=500

Ahh , there it is !!!
http://photos.ford-trucks.com/showph...t=1&thecat=500

I think the owner was running a little HOT

 

Hey John...

Yeah, It was my install.. I wanted a low profile gauge, that was 'easy' to see (read the numbers without any glasses!) somewhat stock looking, and kept my grab handle open.. The column mount panels that are available, block the odometer and look a little cheap.. And, if I want to remove it later, our change the mounting position to add my boost gauge, then it only needs a column cover change or a re-fit..

The gauge pod is a Isspro 2" cup mount with the mounting ears removed, and the cup is attached/screwed through the 'inside' of the cup and the upper column cover, and also angled to the driver.. Easy to read at anytime, day or night.. NO mounting hardware or wires are visable..

The probe mount was done with the manifold still bolted to the engine.. Started with a very small drill bit, and graduated on up.. Being that the probe/hole is almost upside down, the chips feel to the outside of the manifold. Then, the hole was 'swiped' with a tacky probe to check for anything missed..

Wiring is a straight shot through the lower firewall grommet and on up to the panel..

...............................HP................. .........

 

Justgot an Autometer Ultralite Pyro #4344 with Predator. I think I'll mount the probe in the drivers side exhaust manifold also. I believe I need to drill a 3/8 hole, then tap. Where do I wire the +12v lighting to and also the +12v gage power to? Autometer said to run it to the fuse panel but which fuse for lighting and which one for power? Will the added load fry the fuses? Do I wire to the back of the fuse connections or is there some kind of auto parts store metal takeoff?

 

There's alot of info. in regards to the methods of 'Graduated Drilling' (don't start with 3/8), clean up, as well as where to do it.. Do a search on Egt, Probe, Thermo couple ect. and there's plenty of reading.. I replied to your other post as to lighting connection ect.. If you do use a 'fuse tap' (brass) for gauge power, you should put it on the side 'or' lug of the selected fuse that has power when 'keyed' on (fuse removed) With the key on and the fuse removed, only one side of the fuse connection/plug will be 'Hot' and the other won't.. Attach the tap to the Hot side.. This way, the 'extra' load isn't pulled through any other affected circuit..

Your gauge won't draw that much current, but it's always better not to strain a fuse/circuit..

.......................HP......................... ....

 

You should tap into the back of the dimmer switch that way the light will go on and off with your truck lights.