Drilling / Tapping Tips

1. Yes, always start small and work you way up to proper size for the tap.

2. Chip Control - One way to reduce the possibility of chips inside the manifold is to work very slowly and put a heavy grease on the drill / tap (Wheel bearing grease works good). The chips will stick to the grease as you work. Pull the tool out frequently, and clean the grease and accumulated chips off, then put new grease on the tool and continue. Repeat this until you are finished..... Also use a SHARP drill as they tend to produce longer chips than a worn/improperly sharpened drill. Be especially careful when the tool is about to "break through" the far side, less pressure at this time will help pull the chips out rather than push them into manifold.

3. In this application, since you are drilling into cast iron, I would assume that it will produce small granular/sandy chips rather than long curly chips associated with drilling in steel. The side benefit is that less debris is likely to be pushed into the manifold.

ON A SIDE NOTE!

I picked up my '04 PSD Crew Cab Lariat last night....

I can hardly wait to start adding things to my truck

 

I'd be more concerned about the valves in these motors. You'd be hard pressed to actually melt/warp the turbo, but melting your valves wouldn't be that hard and they would go before the turbo. Just my .02.

Terry

 

I have seen 1450 stock...and anywhere in-between,
pulling 10%+ grades, only for seconds, becasue I do back off the throttle...scary
....the right foot controls EGT's

 

With my Superchips MT in the Tow Safe mode this past weekend, I saw a max of 1233 deg F on the pyro (pre turbo). I have the alarm on the X-Monitor set to 1150 and when it went off I looked and saw it up over 1200 and I backed off just a bit and the temp immediately dropped back down to the low 1100s.

This was while pulling back out from a turnout to let some cars pass. It was easily an 8+% grade. As soon as the truck had shifted to the next gear I was able to mash the throttle too the floor again and the temps didn't exceed the 1150 alarm threshold I had set.

Hi temps during the pull up and back on Tow Safe mode were usually in the high 900s to low 1000s and rarely made it up to the 1100s. That was the only time that my pyro alarm threshold was exceeded during the trip.

I should note that I have to ease on the throttle in low gear while pulling out of a turnout or wheelspin will result :-)

Also, much of the time I was heading up the hills just as fast as the cars I had let by.

Max boost during the trip was 30.7 lbs and max tranny temp was 204. The max tranny temp was actually during in town stop and go driving in a LA traffic jam and not pulling up the hills. Typical temps then were in the 180s to 190s range and high 160s to mid 170s when pulling on the flats.

Daryl

 

Daryl...is yours piped or cat back or...

One on my big issues...the truck is heat soaking so bad..

 

Daryl

I just ordered the X-monitor and it should be here Monday .
Just wanted to find out where did you put your sensor for your boost and tranny temp ?

Thanks

 

I am running the Edge 50/75/100 and I have a hard time putting my EGT in the red. I run pre and post pyros. The addition of exhaust and air intake made the difference.

I am running turbo back with no cat and an AirAid intake. Sounds like a jet.

Tim,
Even without shielding on the down pipe I have no heat issues with it breathing so well if that helps...

 

MY problem...left OR and drove for 15H 45 minutes without ever turnning it off.
Fuled and kept going the floor boards were real hot....one thing to remember..GPS showed 34K worth of vert climbing...no doubt I was working the truck...but man it was hot....outside was 75 to 95 while on the road...

 

Mine is pre turbo. There are some pictures in my gallery also. I saw 1200 degrees towing my camper to TN last week in the mountains on I-40.

 

No, just the SCMT and the X-Monitor. Otherwise it's stock.

 

The boost pickup is installed by adding a Tee at the MAP sensor on the intake manifold and running a rubber hose from there through the firewall grommet to the X-Monitor controller assembly. The tranny is picked up by splicing into a wire under the hood on a connector near the driver's side battery.

The instructions are pretty clear.

For my Pyro probe, I drilled into the flat spot between the two rear most cylinder ports on the driver's side exhaust manifold.

 

Tim, in the 175 miles to Big Bear from Carlsbad I had a bit over 20,000 ft worth of accumulated climbing (from DeLorme Topo USA 5.0, I forgot to check the GPS when I got there). No wonder I only got 7.7 MPG on the way up :-)

 

Are your floorboards capable of cooking an egg......

 

No, the truck stays pretty confortable, even given that it was 106 deg F outside as we drove through the valley on the way home. I had no idea that it was that hot outside until I cycled through the overhead gauge. I had to roll down the window just to see if it was really that hot - it was.

My wife was actually commenting about the cool floorboards on the way home. We were talking about driving trips when we were kids, sleeping on the floor to either side of the hump, and how hot the floor used to get.

This truck in contrast remains cool. I wonder if the Ex routes the exhaust under the floor differently, or if perhaps the FX4 just has more room between the exhaust and the floorboard?

 

I do a lot of mountain driving up and down but not 34K. Floor boards are cool and no sign of heat at all. Are you running a stock exhaust? The only problem I have had with heat is my power steering pump overheats easily and starts to overflow out the cap. Had the pump replaced after a lot of complaining and still have the problem. Perhaps I should open a thread on it…

Well back to work for now.