Wet sanding for dummies
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Wet sanding for dummies
Hey, folks, I have finally got to the bodywork portion of my truck. Before you pros cringe, I will say that I am trying to get a "respectable" paint job on a budget. Here's the deal. I used rustoleum spray exclusively because I have had trouble with mixing brands (krylon primer, rustoleum paint, wallyworld clear) so that is why I only used one brand. I stripped to bare metal, and am going from there with two coats of primer, 2 coats of color, and 2 coats of clear, all sanded with 600 grit between. My problem is that the clear drys quick, and there is some grit overspray on the panels. I would like to wetsand, but don't know how. I looked and it has been suggested to soak the 600 in a bucket of H2O with a little soap, but what is the pattern? Up and down? Side to side? Swirl? I am not shooting for perfection, just good. Thanks in advance, Ted
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 191
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From: Portland Oregon
Wet sanding is usually done with a hard rubber sanding
block to avoid crowning the paint surface. On contours you have
to use your hand. Use wet or wet dry sanding paper
[normally black]. A little soap in the water helps. People
alternate between a running hose, sponge or spray
bottle to keep everything wet. I would start with
a smaller scratch...1000 to 1500 and see what happens.
I was taught straight forward and straight back but I
see some guys using a circuler motion. Supposedly wet
sanding boosts or lowers your effective grit size by 100.
So P600 dry is effectively P700 wet or so they say. Hope
this helps!
block to avoid crowning the paint surface. On contours you have
to use your hand. Use wet or wet dry sanding paper
[normally black]. A little soap in the water helps. People
alternate between a running hose, sponge or spray
bottle to keep everything wet. I would start with
a smaller scratch...1000 to 1500 and see what happens.
I was taught straight forward and straight back but I
see some guys using a circuler motion. Supposedly wet
sanding boosts or lowers your effective grit size by 100.
So P600 dry is effectively P700 wet or so they say. Hope
this helps!
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Logistics Pro
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That is a great start, thanks! Like I said, I am just a novice trying my hand with spray paint. Not the best job, but I do want it to look respectable. So, if I get some 1000 grit and wet it, I should be at about 1100? Surely that is fine enough. I was reading another thread where it was stated that for a solid color that 600 was easily fine enough. Will this wet sanding remove the grainy spots? Again, thanks! Ted
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 191
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From: Portland Oregon
I interpret your grainy spots as what is usually called
orange peel and is a starting painters nemisis. It is
usually a solvent-flow out problem. You might start with
the 3M componding polishing rpoducts. They are expensive
but very good. If you use a electric buffer pay attention
to type of pad,spurs to keep it clean and RPM. Good Luck!
orange peel and is a starting painters nemisis. It is
usually a solvent-flow out problem. You might start with
the 3M componding polishing rpoducts. They are expensive
but very good. If you use a electric buffer pay attention
to type of pad,spurs to keep it clean and RPM. Good Luck!
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Grainy spots is usually an indication of dry spray. In other words, the paint is drying before it gets to the surface and it does not flow out before drying. Orange peel will be more wavy looking.
Never use your hand (without a backing) to sand. It is too easy to cut finger grooves in your paint. For those curved surfaces, pick up a soft pad at your local auto paint store. They are a flexible rubber pad and work great for wetsanding.
Grainy spots is usually an indication of dry spray. In other words, the paint is drying before it gets to the surface and it does not flow out before drying. Orange peel will be more wavy looking.
Never use your hand (without a backing) to sand. It is too easy to cut finger grooves in your paint. For those curved surfaces, pick up a soft pad at your local auto paint store. They are a flexible rubber pad and work great for wetsanding.
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Logistics Pro
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Maybe I can clear my self up. It sounds like the dry spray is what I have. In this picture,https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=25069&width=2 if you look at the right fender under the parking light, there is a few of these grainy spots. I know the picture quality isn't the best since you can't use too good of pictures, but there is a few where, digitally, it looks more white than the surrounding areas. That is the grainy spots. It looks to me like it is partially dry when it hits, and doesn't flow out to make the glossy look. Hopefully this helps. So, do I use the 3M stuff or wet sand? While not the best job, I don't want to be redoing it either. Thanks, Ted
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
I would sand and then buff but...
The problem you face, are the products you used. They weren't designed to be worked, after they were applied. Keeping that in mind and realizing that sanding and buffing may ruin the finish (causing a repaint), this is how I would attack the problem.
I would let them cure for a month, before doing anything. You want your paint hard.
Then I would wetsand with 2000 grit. You don't want to take off a lot of product because, you don't have a lot to work with. Be careful around the edges because it is real thin in this area.
You could now attempt to reclear or buff out the 2000 scratch marks. 3M and Megiruirs (however it is spelled) make good compounds. If you don't have a buffer, you can hand buff. Hand buffing is slow but in this case might be the best option since I doubt the clear you used, was designed to be buff out.
I would sand and then buff but...
The problem you face, are the products you used. They weren't designed to be worked, after they were applied. Keeping that in mind and realizing that sanding and buffing may ruin the finish (causing a repaint), this is how I would attack the problem.
I would let them cure for a month, before doing anything. You want your paint hard.
Then I would wetsand with 2000 grit. You don't want to take off a lot of product because, you don't have a lot to work with. Be careful around the edges because it is real thin in this area.
You could now attempt to reclear or buff out the 2000 scratch marks. 3M and Megiruirs (however it is spelled) make good compounds. If you don't have a buffer, you can hand buff. Hand buffing is slow but in this case might be the best option since I doubt the clear you used, was designed to be buff out.
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Logistics Pro
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To paraphrase, leave it alone? Yeah, I know it isn't the best paintjob. That is why I was wondering if it could be done. It is paper thin, but I wanted it to look decent. Maybe my best option would be to finish painting and clearing, and then leave dust and mud on it 
By the way, I love your 4 into 1 truck job. It looks gorgeous and like a lot of fun.
By the way, I love your 4 into 1 truck job. It looks gorgeous and like a lot of fun.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Actually, I thought it was pretty good looking rattle can job. I would personally let it be or perhaps, a light sanding and clearing.
Thanks. It's a fun project. Being retired, the money isn't available to just throw at it so it gets worked on as I have the funds. Spent the afternoon under the Lincoln today, getting it ready to pull the engine. Should have it out in a couple of days. I have the money set aside to rebuild the transmission (going to do it myself). Then I'll probably open up the engine and take a peek to see what it needs. Not looking forward to dealing with all the wiring and electronics.
Actually, I thought it was pretty good looking rattle can job. I would personally let it be or perhaps, a light sanding and clearing.
Thanks. It's a fun project. Being retired, the money isn't available to just throw at it so it gets worked on as I have the funds. Spent the afternoon under the Lincoln today, getting it ready to pull the engine. Should have it out in a couple of days. I have the money set aside to rebuild the transmission (going to do it myself). Then I'll probably open up the engine and take a peek to see what it needs. Not looking forward to dealing with all the wiring and electronics.
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Logistics Pro
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I have been light sanding between coats. Maybe I will try the wetsanding. It can't hurt. Yeah, I know what you mean about money. My wife is going to school now instead of working, so our budget went to about 1/2 income, double cost. Oh well, it is only temporary. Good luck with the engine and tranny. I like mechanical work, but bodywork makes more of a visual impression. I was admiring your IFS conversion and all that black paint on the frame. I like it!
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From: Central Kali
I have done a couple of cars with a single stage and hardener. I wet sanded with 1200. Even with a lot of paint, I cut thru on a couple of corners and had to to some touch up. I then had to buff to get out the sanding scratches. It was a lot of work. Be sure your paint is dry.
