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alternator conversion

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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 03:25 AM
  #1  
jeremyntx's Avatar
jeremyntx
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From: Kirbyville,TX
Arrow alternator conversion

Has anyone converted our plug type alternator to the old cheaper style with remote mounted regulator and if you have please explain how you did it and what wires on the harness plug represent what. I don't really expect anyone to have done this, but its a much cheaper setup that lasts longer in my opinion. My voltage regulator drains my battery while I sleep and I'm getting tired of removing my battery post at night. Maybe someone knows why my alternators start doing this routine after about a year of service? Yes its a good battery with no dead cells, and yes nothing is on. I have three very new battery's~excide, everstart, and some offbrand and nomatter the battery if I leave the post connected the battery drains deader than a doornail in about 10 hrs or less. Any help will save me some trouble and 1.00 per worn out battery terminal.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 05:26 AM
  #2  
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GlennF250
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From: Texas
Got an aftermarket stereo or amplifier?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 07:16 AM
  #3  
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larry derouin
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
It;s not the regulator, it's the triode that gets overloaded/hot and burns out(shorts) and current flows thru the windings overnight. Note that your alternator is hot in the morning after it kills your battery.

1. Go to a generator shop and get a heavy duty rectifier/triode and some heat sink grease(same stuff on your computers cpu & heatsink). smear heat sink grease on the whole backside. you don't need a lot, just enough to make contact.

2. get a new voltage regulator (heavy duty). smear heat sink grease on the whole backside. you don't need a lot, just enough to make contact.

3.ensure all your plug contacts are shiny clean. Get a replacement plug and solder all the connections to the new plug.

that should solve your problem. I did this to my 93 with a 85 amp alt, 2 years ago and it works fine.

larry
 
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Old Jul 19, 2004 | 01:09 PM
  #4  
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jeremyntx
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So I assume the rectifier is a part behind the regulator~~explain, guide, and define better larry, please. I'm gonna fix it as soon as I know what is going on fully. Maybe a step by step repair guide in your post.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 09:06 PM
  #5  
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larry derouin
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Jeremyntx; I spent two hours today typing one-fingered a teardown and rebuild of my alternator on my 93 with all the proper, politically correct disclaimers( I hada mild stroke on last Friday) and my ISP went Belly up for 4 hours right in the middle of it. I'm still so mad I could shake the teeth out of a dead man thru his ^%$@!!!!!

Get a Heavy DUTY Rectifier, Brushes, and a Voltage Regulator for your Alternator at a Local Generator Shop and a CALTERM PIGTAIL from Western Auto,Etc. You will also need 2 cans of Electrical motor cleaner, and a tube of Heatsink Grease from Radio Shack.

Liberal Use of a DIGITAL CAMERA is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Also Mark the case 1/2's so you can line them up again with a Sharpie marker.

Take it apart slowly and photograph each step. You WILL reverse steps to re-assemble it.

Making sure all contacts, slip rings, connectors, etc., are clean to a bright metal will ensure tighter connections and less heat. Use the Electrical Cleaner and emory cloth.

A SOLID COATING of HEAT SINK Grease on the metal side of the rectifier (the side that mates to the back case) will ensure a cooler and longer life.

A SOLID COATING on the RIM of the VOLTAGE Regulator will also ensure a cooler and longer life.

When you replace the CALTERM PLUG, crimp all connections, solder them, heat shrink tube them, and then electrical tape them. This will ensure a cooler cable (less resistance = less heat!) and more electrical flow.

You will need a straightened paperclip to hold the brushes back when the rear case is re-assembled to the front case.

Hope this helps.

Larry

BTW (this took 40 minutes to type. )
 
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 10:56 PM
  #6  
Show-N-Go LX's Avatar
Show-N-Go LX
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From: Lee's Summit MO
Jeremy, you'd be better off buying and installing a 130amp 3G alternator such as what comes from the factory on a 94-95 Mustang GT. That way you KNOW it'll keep the battery up and you'll no longer have to worry about the chance of the rectifier plug on your current alternator getting loose internally and catch the engine wiring harness on fire.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 01:10 AM
  #7  
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jimfrentress
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Wire Harness Fire

The fire you describe happened to my 1990 F250 last nite. The plug-type alternators are just not well designed. Tomorrow I'm installing a Bosch 80amp with the heavy duty rear mount terminals so I won't be getting another fire.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 10:20 PM
  #8  
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jeremyntx
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From: Kirbyville,TX
uhhhok

Thanx alot larry, but don't hurt yourself for me I'll probably try rebuilding it when I get some spare time....Unless that mustang alternator is a direct bolt/plug and play swap. IS IT? God forbid my wiring harness catch on fire!! Sometimes I feel like Ford sends there engineers home on vacation permanently, but sometimes I feel the same way about GM especially when my Quad 4 starts knocking and I have to work on that beast!!!!! Anyways I am going to have to do something ~my new starter is dragging from undercharge conditions and I'm sick of people asking if my timing is advanced. One question before I leave this post~~Ever had a ford starter hang up and make your battery explode?~pretty cool! They dead short if they don't turn.
 
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