94 clutch bleeding nightmare
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New User
Joined: Jul 2004
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94 clutch bleeding nightmare
hi guy's ~n~ gal's
94 ranger xlt,standard cab,2.3L,5spd.,125,000 miles
replaced clutch,pressure plate,slave&throw out
everything went well..out and back in in 1 day.
been bleeding the line ever since..
roomy let it run dry trying to bleed it by himself..
i ran it dry a few times before i replaced the clutch (slave leaking)
and just put fluid in and bled it real quick..and was good..
i have been bleeding this clutch for 4 weeks..
bought a pressure bleeder from Eastwood..
nice tool..but still hasn't done the job..
already have a new master cylinder on hand..
but i really don't think there is anything wrong with the old one..
these things are a nightmare to bleed!!
any help..THX a lot!
found the article here under tech advice and bleeding slave cylinder
which actually is more about the master cylinder...but..anyways...
will try that..but go ahead and post any advice you may have...
94 ranger xlt,standard cab,2.3L,5spd.,125,000 miles
replaced clutch,pressure plate,slave&throw out
everything went well..out and back in in 1 day.
been bleeding the line ever since..
roomy let it run dry trying to bleed it by himself..
i ran it dry a few times before i replaced the clutch (slave leaking)
and just put fluid in and bled it real quick..and was good..
i have been bleeding this clutch for 4 weeks..
bought a pressure bleeder from Eastwood..
nice tool..but still hasn't done the job..
already have a new master cylinder on hand..
but i really don't think there is anything wrong with the old one..
these things are a nightmare to bleed!!
any help..THX a lot!
found the article here under tech advice and bleeding slave cylinder
which actually is more about the master cylinder...but..anyways...
will try that..but go ahead and post any advice you may have...
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 3
From: Belleville, Ontario
Welcome to FTE!
During the re & re of the hydraulic line, you didn't have any difficulty that may have damaged the tube, right? It came off & went back on nice & easy?
You've got nothing to lose by changing the master at this point.
Good luck!
AL.
During the re & re of the hydraulic line, you didn't have any difficulty that may have damaged the tube, right? It came off & went back on nice & easy?
You've got nothing to lose by changing the master at this point.
Good luck!
AL.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 201
Likes: 1
From: NC
These are a major pain to bleed.
If you don't have Phoenix Injector tool, then try a reverse bleeding. hook up pressure bleeder to slave cylinder [ will require some fabrication to make it work.]
unscrew the clutch master cylinder cap, turn the pressure bleeder on and watch the fluid level rises inside the clutch master cylinder.
The reason for that is the clutch master cylinder does not have piston return spring inside and the pressure bleeder will force the piston toward to clutch pedal pushrod.
Good Luck
If you don't have Phoenix Injector tool, then try a reverse bleeding. hook up pressure bleeder to slave cylinder [ will require some fabrication to make it work.]
unscrew the clutch master cylinder cap, turn the pressure bleeder on and watch the fluid level rises inside the clutch master cylinder.
The reason for that is the clutch master cylinder does not have piston return spring inside and the pressure bleeder will force the piston toward to clutch pedal pushrod.
Good Luck
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 22
From: Tucson USA
You will drive yourself batty tring to bleed normally. Here is how I recfommend you do it and many have tried it and replied how easy it is>
inside the cab, pull the starter interlock from the clutch rod, disconnect the rod from the pedal arm. You will see a circlip in the master over the piston. Pull the circlip, pull the piston till just the air and a little fluid escapes, pump the master a couple of strokes repeat the above, reasemble than bleed per the manual, open the bleeder and let gravity bleed. Might have to bleed the bleeder a couple of times, biggest thing is the air in the master.
Hank
inside the cab, pull the starter interlock from the clutch rod, disconnect the rod from the pedal arm. You will see a circlip in the master over the piston. Pull the circlip, pull the piston till just the air and a little fluid escapes, pump the master a couple of strokes repeat the above, reasemble than bleed per the manual, open the bleeder and let gravity bleed. Might have to bleed the bleeder a couple of times, biggest thing is the air in the master.
Hank
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New User
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Thanx guy's
i think the tube is fine...but:
i went ahead and bought a new one anyway ($83.00)
think i will just bench bleed the new master cyl.
per: hank's instructions..
and put the new master and new master to slave line..
i already bought 'em what the hey...
then i will know ALL is brand new..
and should be good for many miles..
thx for all the help...
will let you all know how it goes...digging in this afternoon.
i think the tube is fine...but:
i went ahead and bought a new one anyway ($83.00)
think i will just bench bleed the new master cyl.
per: hank's instructions..
and put the new master and new master to slave line..
i already bought 'em what the hey...
then i will know ALL is brand new..
and should be good for many miles..
thx for all the help...
will let you all know how it goes...digging in this afternoon.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2004
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ok..
i have replaced everything brand new..
and bled and bled...i know it's bled..
put on new slave cylinder from factory..
3/16" difference in height from factory to autozones replacement..
pulled out autozones new replacement slave..
and could push it down easily..
had bench bled new factory slave..and could not push it down by hand..
thought i had the problem fixed..(bad slave from autozone)
beld it again,looked good..WILL not go into gear!
if i put it in gear..then start it..it will drive..just can't change gears
clutch seems to work,engages normally if i put it in gear first..1st & reverse anyway
can drive it in & out of garage..just can't change gears
confused,lost and puzzled.
i have been working on this for 8 weeks..
out of ideas..have pulled the tranny 2x...
guess it's gotta go to a shop...
i am exhausted from this...
i have replaced everything brand new..
and bled and bled...i know it's bled..
put on new slave cylinder from factory..
3/16" difference in height from factory to autozones replacement..
pulled out autozones new replacement slave..
and could push it down easily..
had bench bled new factory slave..and could not push it down by hand..
thought i had the problem fixed..(bad slave from autozone)
beld it again,looked good..WILL not go into gear!
if i put it in gear..then start it..it will drive..just can't change gears
clutch seems to work,engages normally if i put it in gear first..1st & reverse anyway
can drive it in & out of garage..just can't change gears
confused,lost and puzzled.
i have been working on this for 8 weeks..
out of ideas..have pulled the tranny 2x...
guess it's gotta go to a shop...
i am exhausted from this...
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2
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I had a similar problem with my wife's 94
I spent 3 weeks changing the clutch, master and slave. Luckily I had saved all the old parts untill I was done because after dropping and putting the trany up 3 times I found that my main bleeding problem was a bad Wagner slave. The new one would only depress half the distance of the factory, (by the way this REALLY irritated the guy I bought it from. He's a friend of mine and hates it when other people's mistakes make him look bad).
I agree that bleeding these clutches is a pain. When I finally got all good parts in it, I had air in the master, and did a procedure very much like the one that was listed above. Even then I had to bleed it again about a month later to get the rest of the air out.
Just as a note: the new slave shouldn't be all that hard to push in, the only thing you are pressing against, if you have the bleeder open or haven't filled it with fluid yet, is the spring it's self.
--Toxic
I agree that bleeding these clutches is a pain. When I finally got all good parts in it, I had air in the master, and did a procedure very much like the one that was listed above. Even then I had to bleed it again about a month later to get the rest of the air out.
Just as a note: the new slave shouldn't be all that hard to push in, the only thing you are pressing against, if you have the bleeder open or haven't filled it with fluid yet, is the spring it's self.
--Toxic
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,307
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From: MARYLAND
bleeding a clutch???? that's easy..easiest way i ever found..
Fill up the resivoir..
crack the bleeder nut open..let the fluid come out on it's own..you'll see the fluid level in the resivoir begin to drop..tighten the bleeder nut back up..top of fluid in the resivoir and you're done. basically you're gravity bleeding it.
Fill up the resivoir..
crack the bleeder nut open..let the fluid come out on it's own..you'll see the fluid level in the resivoir begin to drop..tighten the bleeder nut back up..top of fluid in the resivoir and you're done. basically you're gravity bleeding it.
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 594
Likes: 5
From: Wetumpka, Alabama
Originally Posted by silverbeard
oki have been working on this for 8 weeks..
out of ideas..
out of ideas..
Hopefully, you won't spend 8 more weeks on it !
New User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1
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Ranger Clutch Replacement
When replacing the 5-speed transmission in my 94 Ranger, I decided to mill the flywheel, replace the pressure plate, clutch and slave/throwout bearing. Afterward, I bled the clutch but there was no clutch action. The transmission was hard shifting and would grind when you tried to place it in reverse. I read everyone's forum messages and tried several potential solutions, most about bleeding.
I have now solved the problem and it wasn't bleeding after all.
First, Ford garages do not mill flywheels to cleanup the surface. They simply replace them. They told me to do the same, but a mechanic friend advised me to simply shim the flywheel (between the flywheel and crank flange) the same amount that was removed from the surface. It worked. I simply used shim stock and gently hammered out the circle/bolt patterns as you would a gasket.
Then I replaced the aftermarket pressure plate, clutch and slave (from AutoZone) with genuine Ford parts. The slave alone was 1/8" longer. When I reassembled the unit, the clutch worked better than ever before. The key, it turns out, is the critical dimensions (since the throwout setup is not adjustable). All parts are not created equal, I found.
Hope this helps someone else.
John McDonald
Murray, Kentucky
I have now solved the problem and it wasn't bleeding after all.
First, Ford garages do not mill flywheels to cleanup the surface. They simply replace them. They told me to do the same, but a mechanic friend advised me to simply shim the flywheel (between the flywheel and crank flange) the same amount that was removed from the surface. It worked. I simply used shim stock and gently hammered out the circle/bolt patterns as you would a gasket.
Then I replaced the aftermarket pressure plate, clutch and slave (from AutoZone) with genuine Ford parts. The slave alone was 1/8" longer. When I reassembled the unit, the clutch worked better than ever before. The key, it turns out, is the critical dimensions (since the throwout setup is not adjustable). All parts are not created equal, I found.
Hope this helps someone else.
John McDonald
Murray, Kentucky
More Turbo
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 594
Likes: 5
From: Wetumpka, Alabama
Originally Posted by jmac3ky
I have now solved the problem and it wasn't bleeding after all.
First, Ford garages do not mill flywheels to cleanup the surface. They simply replace them. They told me to do the same, but a mechanic friend advised me to simply shim the flywheel (between the flywheel and crank flange) the same amount that was removed from the surface. It worked.
First, Ford garages do not mill flywheels to cleanup the surface. They simply replace them. They told me to do the same, but a mechanic friend advised me to simply shim the flywheel (between the flywheel and crank flange) the same amount that was removed from the surface. It worked.
In my situation, I too had the flywheel shaved/milled/resurfaced. No idea how much they took off though... ??
The thing that worked out for me was to "Bench Bleed" my clutch hydraulic system and then install it.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 594
Likes: 5
From: Wetumpka, Alabama
Originally Posted by seumas
Hi All
Has anyone come up with a full proof SOP for bleeding the clutches from bench bleeding to bleeding it on a hill?
Thanks
Has anyone come up with a full proof SOP for bleeding the clutches from bench bleeding to bleeding it on a hill?
Thanks
The method that I think works the BEST is to Bench Bleed the system and "then" install it.
Believe you me! I've tried ALL the methods lately and Bench Bleeding definately is the EASIEST and MOST effective methos to do!
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
All I can say is I struck gold!!! I was having the same problems as alot of other people, and I was try to come up with away to get the clutch to bleed, and I finally figured one out. I took my mityvac put about a 1 1/2'-2' length of clear tubing on it, with tapered point adapter on the end of that. I then stuck the adapter into the hole inside the center of the master cylinder resevoir, where the hose connects from the resevoir to the master cylinder, pumped the mityvac up until the fluid was a inch or so to the end of the mityvac. I then let the bubbles rise to the top of the tube, until most had risen, then released vacuum pressure. I continued this process until I had the vacuum up to about 28hg.