Buying R134a
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Freshman User
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From: WI
Buying R134a
Went to my local NAPA to get a recharge kit like in the Haynes manual and they said they can't sell the stuff in WI. Are alot of states like this? Where do you guys get it? I just wanted to add 1 can to my 99 F150 w/o having to take it to the garage.
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From: WI
After reading the Haynes manual that is what I figured it needed. Just not blowing as cold as it use too. I was thinking I would add 1 can and see what happened. Haynes doesn't go into using guages so I would know what to do there.
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From: Roland, Ar
You can buy R134a in WI if you are certified, you can go to www.imaca.org and print out the study guide. Then use you credit card for the $15 fee and take the test. You will need a gauge set to ad the correct amount R134a.
Lead Driver
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
If it isn't blowing as cold as it used to, it may not be the refrigerant charge. My truck is also a '99 and cleaning the accumulated glop out of the evap coil helped a lot. It really isn't a good idea to add refrigerant without a way to monitor the pressures. You may actually be able to rent (or possibly borrow) a set of manifold guages from a local parts store. Some A/C shops will check the system pressures for free, too. Adding refrigerant actually increases the temperature of the evap coil while the compressor is running.
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Lead Driver
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
The one in front of the radiator is the condensor, you can blast it out with a garden hose if it has leaves, bugs, etc. in it. The evaporator is the one in the box at the firewall with the heater core. You may be able to remove the blower motor and get a look at it. Most hardware stores sell cleaner for A/C system coils. There may also be other causes for the system not being as cold as it once was. Some of these are: blend door or heater core valve not fully closing, failing compressor, fresh air door not closing all the way. If it were me (as it recently was), I would start by checking the pressures. It certainly can only help to clean the evap coil, low cost process and it may be most of the cause.
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From: WI
I went out and took a closer look. Condensor is clean. Started truck and watched the compressor and lines. Compressor cycles on and off at about 4 second intervals, is this normal? The lines going from the condensor to the evap had a major temp diff. In fact water was dripping off the cold one. The drain from the evap, I'm guessing this is the hard metal one by the tranny, was not dripping, truck ran for 5 min on max a/c. There was however water dripping off the heat shield for the cat. I'm guessing this was off the line going through the firewall. I found the evap. How hard is it to get to it? Does the lower half of the dash around the glove box come off and do I need to worry about the air bag as I do this? What would I most likely find in the evap that you were talking about? I appreciate all the help. If it matters the truck is a 99 F150SC 4x4 w/ 5.4L
Lead Driver
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
OK, now we're getting somewhere. No, the compressor should not be cycling like that at idle. The water dripping is mormal, and is the condensate draining off of the cold evaporator coil. The lines going to the evaporator should be cold (one more so than the other), and the condensor lines will get quite hot.
The cycling can be caused by several things, low evap coil temperature, low pressure, high pressure. These all call for checking the refrigerant pressures. If you absolutely cannot do that, here is what I might try, although it would probably still be against my better judgement. I would add small amounts (like 0.1 lbs.) of refrigerant at a time. If the cycling reduces or stops, the system may have been undercharged. If it increases, could be overcharged or have a restriction. If the compressor is noisy, it may be puking pieces of itself into the orifice tube screen, causing restriction.
The cycling can be caused by several things, low evap coil temperature, low pressure, high pressure. These all call for checking the refrigerant pressures. If you absolutely cannot do that, here is what I might try, although it would probably still be against my better judgement. I would add small amounts (like 0.1 lbs.) of refrigerant at a time. If the cycling reduces or stops, the system may have been undercharged. If it increases, could be overcharged or have a restriction. If the compressor is noisy, it may be puking pieces of itself into the orifice tube screen, causing restriction.
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Time to go to the garage for a guage check. I started trying to get to the evap and it is a pain in the azz. Have about 100 screws out and probably 100 more to go. Will put what I have back together and make an appointment.
Thanks much.
Thanks much.
Lead Driver
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Probably the easiest way to get to the evap coil is through the blower motor opening in the engine compartment. I haven't done a cleaning on an F150, but that was how I got to it on a 350.
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R134a must , let me stress this MUST be precisely measured into the system.
An overcharged system will result in inferior cooling and decreased compressor life.
There is absolutely no way to measure the amount of a 12oz can actually gets into the system
There is no way to know if it needs 12 or 20 oz.
Take it in, have it evacuated and charged, With a charging cylinder.
Tossing cans into an AC is not how its done.
I know many have done it.
Many have also used chewing gum and bailing wire to fix other things doesn't make it right.
An overcharged system will result in inferior cooling and decreased compressor life.
There is absolutely no way to measure the amount of a 12oz can actually gets into the system
There is no way to know if it needs 12 or 20 oz.
Take it in, have it evacuated and charged, With a charging cylinder.
Tossing cans into an AC is not how its done.
I know many have done it.
Many have also used chewing gum and bailing wire to fix other things doesn't make it right.
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Trashyvixxen
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