Oil pressure question
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From: Central Iowa
Oil pressure question
I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge last night and am having some concerns with it's readings. I bought the gauge because I don't trust the idiot light/gauge that comes stock. When I turn the truck on and the engine is cold the oil pressure goes up to just about 50 psi. After the truck starts to warm up it drops to about 25 psi. When the truck is warm it almost pegs low at 0 psi. What should the normal operating pressure be when idling and when driving? Help!
KJ
KJ
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From: Loveland, CO.
Yours seems a little low. It is normal to drop after warm up, and again at idle, but 25 and almost 0 is on the low side. How many miles are on your engine? Those readings sound about right for a 120,000+ engine. As long as you are not getting any knocking or ticking at idle, then the pressure is good enough.
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From: Central Iowa
the engine is a rebuilt that has a little over 7k on it. I am curious as to whether or not the engine has blowby. I have been noticing oil in the air box. I also having a leak that I assume is the pan gasket that is getting progressively worse. I am noticing some knocking at idle. I am not too worried about the engine performance right now. As long as it gets me to and from work everyday. I don't plan on driving to Alaska for anything. I would like to extend the life of this engine as long as possible. I am starting to realize that I got what I paid for when I bought the engine in TX. I paid around $1k for it.
KJ
KJ
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From: Loveland, CO.
It does not sound right for a rebuilt engine with 7K. If your oil pressure is low and you have knocking on idle, then the engine is probably already damaged. You SHOULD be able to drive a rebuilt 7K motor to Alaska if you want. And the oil on the filter is bad for a new motor. I have 123K and no oil on my filter. However it is ok to get some oil on the filter during break-in, and I suspect that is what heppened with yours. Change the filter and see if it happens again. And you have a pan gasket leak as well, my 123K motor has no pan gasket leak.
Bottom line: I would check your warranty and call these people on the problems that you are having. $1K is a cheap motor, but it still should not be having all of these problems. Who did you get the motor from?
Bottom line: I would check your warranty and call these people on the problems that you are having. $1K is a cheap motor, but it still should not be having all of these problems. Who did you get the motor from?
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From: Loveland, CO.
PS - I am not trying to rub it in by saying that my original 15 year old motor does not have these problems. I am trying to point out that you should not be having them with your 7K rebuilt motor.
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From: Central Iowa
I bought the motor out of San Anotonio Tx. The place is called city motor supply. The have a website if you want to check it out. www.citymotorsupply.com
I bought the premium long block. I am going to do a compression check sometime in the next couple of days. I can't wait to install a new pan gasket. I had to do that once on my last motor and Ford couldn't have had a more knuckleheaded design that the one on the location of the oil pan. What a headache!
KJ
I bought the premium long block. I am going to do a compression check sometime in the next couple of days. I can't wait to install a new pan gasket. I had to do that once on my last motor and Ford couldn't have had a more knuckleheaded design that the one on the location of the oil pan. What a headache!
KJ
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Isn't the rule 10psi for every 1000rpm? How is 25psi low? With a gauge that reads 0-50psi, it barely reads anything inbetween and CAN look like zero - when infact it might be reading 7 or 8psi, which will barely register. But onto the other point...a rebuilt 7k mile engine should not be experiencing these symptoms. My engine exhibites the same problems as yours...but it has 199k on it...just to give you an idea.
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From: Loveland, CO.
Originally Posted by genueix
Isn't the rule 10psi for every 1000rpm? How is 25psi low? With a gauge that reads 0-50psi, it barely reads anything inbetween and CAN look like zero - when infact it might be reading 7 or 8psi, which will barely register. But onto the other point...a rebuilt 7k mile engine should not be experiencing these symptoms. My engine exhibites the same problems as yours...but it has 199k on it...just to give you an idea.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: NJ
excessive main ,rod and cam bearing clearences cause low oil pressure. the 50 psi sounds ok but the concern is the near zero readig. what oil are you running? is your engine running extreemly hot as this would cause thinning of the oil and that in turn would give you low oil pressure. this is why i personally dont like syntetic oils because they start thin and only get thinner.
i would be more concerned driving a 0 mile engine great distances then i would be with a high mileage engine.
i would be more concerned driving a 0 mile engine great distances then i would be with a high mileage engine.
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From: Central Iowa
I run Mobil 1 Synthetic. Should I maybe go with a non synthetic? Would that help? The mechanical gauge reads from 0-100 psi. My engine isn't running hot according to the temp gauge. How accurate is the stock gauge? Should I maybe get a new temp gauge as well? Just to be sure.
KJ
KJ
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From: NJ
i personally dont think it would cause problems but maybe a new thread to find out what others think. this may help you make a more educated choice. maybe post it in the lubrication forum also.sorry i cant give you a more definate answer. i do know you shouldnt change to synthetics from regular on a high mialage engine becayse they arre thinner and leaks become more pronounced.