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Mike......nothing serious, really. I am in the process of moving in/moving out. Two properties to take care of, some road trips inbetween......too much to do, not enough time to do them. Work been too busy to play online while there
I went to the Hot Rod reunion at Bowling Green, KY the other weekend. Ran the wagon, went three rounds! I also went to the GoodGuys Hot Rod show in Columbus last weekend. I was no. 6009 registered!!! (took my '59 Mack )
Anyhoo, not to hijack Greg's thread.
Is there anyway to install some FOAM in that large tank?? That would help decrease the amount of slosh.
What was your MPH, in the 1/8 and 1/4?? That is a good indication of power. A slow time only tells you that you are traction limited. If you have a strong MPH, then you know that it's making power.
Last edited by Freightrain; Jul 15, 2004 at 07:41 AM.
Having alot of gas in the tank is never a good idea at the track I would ditch the big tank before going...when ever I went to the track I would only put in a couple of like 2 gallons before the race. If you had a way of leaving a small fuel cell in the pits then you could do something like that, but without towing it your options are limited. The main thing is drop gargantuan tank before you go or empty it in to cans and pull em off while you race. dunno something like that.
With a long strokin torque monster its not gonna pull on the upper side as muchyour power band is more strait up and then back down it needs to be wider accross the chart to carry you through to the end.......but your motor make plenty of power. From here on out its all in the physics of your vehicle, weight transfer, traction, aerodynamics and so on....Gearin. your drive train behind the flywheel is heavy too dana 60 and a c6 that takes alot of power to motivate.
Forgot....what was your RPM at the traps?? Whats the rpm band of cam again??
Are you in it most of the time??
How hard were you powerbraking it to leave?? How high RPM?? Or would it just try to spin too hard??
You need to have some one tell you if it's smoking (black) while going down the track. This will tell you if your too rich. If no smoke, then maybe it needs some more jet? After reading your loss of power due to low fuel level, I would say you are LEAN right now. That fuel tank needs attention FIRST. Is there a possibility of installing a pickup at the rear?? Have a bung welded on at the back/middle/bottom?? If we work at the small issues first, then we can deal with the bigger ones(if there are any??).
If it was mentioned before, one of those rich/lean fuel mixture gadgets will definitely help you tune it. I put one on my blower motor to help me get it tuned it a little better. It gives you a running meter of fuel supply to motor. Not a bad $150 investment(not that you don't have a million in it already ).
The good news is you didn't have to take anything home in a basket! A definate improvement if you ask me. There is no bad news. You are just tuning/troubleshooting now. That is what many of us consider the fun part.
One thing I am positive you are fighting is the fact that you built your engine to be a towing engine, all bottom end, and not a drag engine. You knew this from the beginning. The flip side of low RPM grunt is high RPM wheeze. I think you will be able to improve your times by working the bugs out, but you'll have to short-shift to stay in your torque band no matter what.
Congrats on keeping all your big pieces big, as opposed to making little pieces out of them.
Is ther any way to decrease your weight greg? Your almost 5 thousand pounds that is not good for racing, also the tank is to large. Try to leave about 5 gallons in the tank. Also what is your powerband? When do you run out of steam at high RPM's? For most small block FE's I think its around 4500 RPM not sure about big block FE's though. Lightening the truck and getting a smaller tank should help a lot but your engine is a low-RPM one and not that good for high RPM stuff.
Let's refresh a bit here. Ebok heads? Roller cam? big cubes?
I see no reason why you can not get good power up to 5500 rpm. Mild cam or not, a roller will make better power than any solid.
We need to nail down the rpm band of camshaft and where you are running it at.
How about a quick run down of the current pieces you have, just so we are all on the same page.
Larry im running the same cam in my 432....it should be good for 6000K 6500rpm before the valve's start to float, and that with the standard 120 on the seat and 344 on the nose... Im not sure what gregs got ? I do know there comp cams springs as are mine.. Mine are 130 @seat and 394,396 close to 400 on the nose...so I would assume it should rev a bit higher? not that I want too..with all the HP on mine coming in @6K.... Gregs motor and mine are pretty close, but he's running Ross Pistons and 4.125 stroke.. @.020 over and mine not stroked @ .030 over... Russ
I think greg is running the Crane 349521. Their website lists the rpm range as 2500 - 6000. I would think that with Greg's setup, that could be changed to 1000 - 5000.
Greg, are those heads you've got ported? Also, did you ever get that valvetrain tick straightened out?
Your running a stock torque converter right? That isnt exactly going to utilize your upper rpm band, your tranny is probobly shifting to soon. Its great for being a truck but for the track your gonna loose out....Ratsmokers running a stall in his and your build up is atleast gonna have the same power curve as his. Your just not putting the power to the ground right.
I am running a stock style TC, and that is intentional. This supposed to be a boat puller. But, with 450-500 HP, I still expect better than 16s.
I really think my problem is the fuel tank. It's too big on the bottom, my pickup is at the front and it's heavy. I may work on a small tank solution for racing.
The edelbrock heads are stock, no porting.
the previous dyno shows that HP peaks at 5200rpm, and torque is flat from alomst 3200-4800 rpm. Shifting at 5200rpm should be good. based on the dyno numbers, and the fact that I think it's making more power now, my problem must be due to the motion of the truck. (Not accelerating on the dyno.) That tells me it must be fuel related. I'm starving the fuel pump when accelerating down te track.
I may get another dyno, but I'm almost sure it's making more power. With 360+ HP and 416+ lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels, I should run better than 16s, even with 4750lbs of truck, no?
I may go again on Friday...maybe I can make some changes by then.
I admit this is kinda fun...but with what I've got invested in time and money, it's also a bit embarasing to run side by side with a tired 360 1/2 ton truck.
Hey Greg, I can probably find and old 74 F100 around here with a tired FE360 in it if you care to trade? just think of how good of mileage you'll get...
I have every bit of faith that you'll get it all dailed in..the next few trips for test and tune.. Like Scouder said..At least your on the upside now...ya didnt come home with a bucket of parts,and on the back of a rollback!! Russ
If I can get my 4000 lb wagon to run 11.37 @120 mph....I think we can get the truck running better than 16's.
Mine is 428, eboks(mild port job), .631 solid, 12:1
Granted it hooks, and a bit more aerodynamic, but he should be pulling more MPH.
With some tuning I think we can do it.
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