dashboard lights
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Joined: Nov 2003
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Hi sleepydog,
I also have a 95 Explorer and I've had the dash apart tons of times to change the bulbs and whatnot. The bulbs behind the gauges do in fact just twist right out. I'm 99% sure that they loosen counterclockwise. The ones I've had the most experience with are the ones that light up the gauges. I believe there's five or so of them. They're the ones with the large black plastic holders. Give the plastic part a good turn by hand and it will pop right out. Once you have it out, it will look like you'll need to buy a whole assembly (like the bulb and the black plastic piece) but that's not the case. The actual bulb will pull out from the black plastic piece (it's a wedge type bulb - I believe a number 194). That's the part that can be pretty hard to do. In my experience, those bulbs really get comfortable in their holders and if all else fails, you may have to break the glass and pull that guy out with a pair of pliers. You should be fine though. Good luck with that and post back if you have any problems.
In reference to borland's post above:
I know it was posted a year and a half ago, but I'll correct him just in case anyone finds this via a search and wants the correct info.
The bulbs behind the cruise control switches on the steering wheel are probably burnt out on 80% of the Explorers out there. Ask the dealer and 9.9 times out of 10, they will tell you that you need to buy the whole switch just to get the lights working again (the switches are like 60 bucks a pair). This is a downright lie and is really shameful from both Ford and the individual dealers/service managers. The dealers/service managers for lying about it, and Ford for not stepping in and asking why SO MANY switches are being replaced on these older Explorers. I'm sure Ford knows that the dealers are soaking people for entire switch assemblies when all that's needed is the bulb.
If anyone wants to fix the burnt out bulbs, they are Ford part number: E5RY-13466-BA
It's entirely possible that when you order/get this bulb it will be missing the blue rubber cap that goes over the bulb and allows it glow blue inside the cruise control switch, so when you take your old bulbs out of the switches, carefully work your way around the rubber piece where it meets the black plastic holder with a razorblade. After a minute of moving it around with the blade, it should come off (but be careful not to rip it while taking it off) and then pop it on the new bulbs. Put the new bulbs in, put the switch back together (carefully) and you're all set. Good luck to anyone with burnt out cruise control switch bulbs, and sorry to anyone that paid 60 dollars for switches when a 2 dollar bulb would have done the trick. I love my Ford, but shame on them for taking such advantage of people.
I also have a 95 Explorer and I've had the dash apart tons of times to change the bulbs and whatnot. The bulbs behind the gauges do in fact just twist right out. I'm 99% sure that they loosen counterclockwise. The ones I've had the most experience with are the ones that light up the gauges. I believe there's five or so of them. They're the ones with the large black plastic holders. Give the plastic part a good turn by hand and it will pop right out. Once you have it out, it will look like you'll need to buy a whole assembly (like the bulb and the black plastic piece) but that's not the case. The actual bulb will pull out from the black plastic piece (it's a wedge type bulb - I believe a number 194). That's the part that can be pretty hard to do. In my experience, those bulbs really get comfortable in their holders and if all else fails, you may have to break the glass and pull that guy out with a pair of pliers. You should be fine though. Good luck with that and post back if you have any problems.
In reference to borland's post above:
I know it was posted a year and a half ago, but I'll correct him just in case anyone finds this via a search and wants the correct info.
The bulbs behind the cruise control switches on the steering wheel are probably burnt out on 80% of the Explorers out there. Ask the dealer and 9.9 times out of 10, they will tell you that you need to buy the whole switch just to get the lights working again (the switches are like 60 bucks a pair). This is a downright lie and is really shameful from both Ford and the individual dealers/service managers. The dealers/service managers for lying about it, and Ford for not stepping in and asking why SO MANY switches are being replaced on these older Explorers. I'm sure Ford knows that the dealers are soaking people for entire switch assemblies when all that's needed is the bulb.
If anyone wants to fix the burnt out bulbs, they are Ford part number: E5RY-13466-BA
It's entirely possible that when you order/get this bulb it will be missing the blue rubber cap that goes over the bulb and allows it glow blue inside the cruise control switch, so when you take your old bulbs out of the switches, carefully work your way around the rubber piece where it meets the black plastic holder with a razorblade. After a minute of moving it around with the blade, it should come off (but be careful not to rip it while taking it off) and then pop it on the new bulbs. Put the new bulbs in, put the switch back together (carefully) and you're all set. Good luck to anyone with burnt out cruise control switch bulbs, and sorry to anyone that paid 60 dollars for switches when a 2 dollar bulb would have done the trick. I love my Ford, but shame on them for taking such advantage of people.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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CC77
Any advise on how to remove the speed control pods from the steering wheel to change the bulbs? I read your post and am unclear. I pryed the rubber boot off one, saw a small circuit board with the switches for the controls and a couple resistors and a blue "bolt looking" thing going through the center. In doing this I managed to break one of the snap clips that holds the circuit board to the black plastic and had one heck of a time getting the rubber boot back over the circuit board and into the edges of the plastic back. Surely there's an easier way. But, if there's not, I may need to know how to remove them so I can replace the switches now that I've alreay broken on eclip!!!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Any advise on how to remove the speed control pods from the steering wheel to change the bulbs? I read your post and am unclear. I pryed the rubber boot off one, saw a small circuit board with the switches for the controls and a couple resistors and a blue "bolt looking" thing going through the center. In doing this I managed to break one of the snap clips that holds the circuit board to the black plastic and had one heck of a time getting the rubber boot back over the circuit board and into the edges of the plastic back. Surely there's an easier way. But, if there's not, I may need to know how to remove them so I can replace the switches now that I've alreay broken on eclip!!!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 24
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Hi rakstr,
I saw your other post and answered there before I saw this one.
I'm sorry you broke the clip that holds the thing together
My earlier post in this thread was not a full step-by-step explanation (my answer in your other thread pretty much is). The problem with the way you did it is that it's 1,000 times easier to replace the bulbs when the entire switch is removed from the steering wheel. I've seen many broken switches because of people who didn't know to remove the switch first, and tried to do it while the switch was still connected. Even people who didn't have a part number or anything and just wanted to pry the thing open and see what's going on in there with the burnt-out bulb.
Once you have the switch out (if you follow the procedure in the other thread) you can try to put the clips back together with some Crazy Glue or epoxy. Nothing really moves too much in the switch anyway, so even if the teeth are a little broken, you should still be fine. Post back and let us know how it goes.
Good luck!
I saw your other post and answered there before I saw this one.
I'm sorry you broke the clip that holds the thing together
My earlier post in this thread was not a full step-by-step explanation (my answer in your other thread pretty much is). The problem with the way you did it is that it's 1,000 times easier to replace the bulbs when the entire switch is removed from the steering wheel. I've seen many broken switches because of people who didn't know to remove the switch first, and tried to do it while the switch was still connected. Even people who didn't have a part number or anything and just wanted to pry the thing open and see what's going on in there with the burnt-out bulb.
Once you have the switch out (if you follow the procedure in the other thread) you can try to put the clips back together with some Crazy Glue or epoxy. Nothing really moves too much in the switch anyway, so even if the teeth are a little broken, you should still be fine. Post back and let us know how it goes.
Good luck!
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