Ok, before I go and remove the harmonic balancer, what's the trick on installing it using this installer kit: http://www.precisionmeasure.com/block12.htm
It's similar to the type of installer kit I got from Auto Zone.

I'm thinking that the depth of the mounting flange on the balancer would not allow me to turn the kit's 1 3/8" nut to press the balancer on. Is there supposed to be some type of spacer (other than the kit's ball thrust) that is needed to place the nut far enough forward of the balancer's front surface, in order to turn it with a wrench? It is the big nut that needs to be turned right?

What did you guys do to install the balancer?

Thanks again, Ed

 

Hmm--anyone?

 

I used the bolt and the washer that hold it on. Worked fine for me - you should not have to crank on it very hard to get it to go in.

 

EPNCSU2006, thanks for your input. After taking off the pulley, I kind of figured that using the bolt would probably be sufficient.

My only problem now is getting the balancer bolt off the crank. I used a cheater bar on the end of a ratchet, along with a 1/4" drive extension wedged into one of the slots of the balancer and the water pump web closest to the oil pan. The bolt wouldn't budge and the extension got a little bent. I stopped at that point cause I didn't want to bust the water pump housing. Need to get to a place where I can use an air impact wrench to get the darn thing off.

The bolt isn't a reverse threaded bolt, is it? I know that the belt tensioner pulley bolt is--so I was just wondering.

Thanks, Ed

 

your right it's not a reversed thread but it does come off alot eaiser with a impact gun.

 

Do you have a stick or automatic? I have a stick, so I just left my truck in gear, and that kept the motor from spinning when I took the bolt out. I don't know if this is possible with an automatic.

 

Thanks for the replies. It is a stick. I left it in first gear with the parking break set. I still managed to turn the engine and rocked the truck too. That's when I tried wedging the 1/4" extension as noted earlier.

Just picked up a small compressor, with an impact gun and air ratchet included as a combo set. It's a Cambell Hausfeld (Tiawan made ) set from Wally world. Hopefully it has enough huff to do the job. If not, back to Wally world it goes. Will let you all (for anyone interested) know how it goes.

 

Compressor and impact gun worked well. Had to move the fan shroud out the way to get the gun in there. A 10 second squeeze of the trigger and off it came. The washer had some sealant on it and on the balancer from the factory. Guess I will need to do the same during install--right?

Used the puller from Auto Zone to get the balancer off the crank; that took a few minutes. When the balancer was off, I noticed some engine oil on the end of it. The bolt also had some oil on the threads. Both of these findings are normal--yes?

Just to see if the puller didn't mess with the crank threads, I tried to screw the bolt into it. The bolt just barely started and then I couldn't move it any further using hand torque. Any ideas? I didn't want to force it in with a wrench so I stopped at this point and will start back up tomorrow. I'll probably try to screw in one of the adapters from the installation kit and see if it's the bolt that is messed up--maybe the threads just need to be cleaned or chased.

BTW, the balancer remover kit uses a cone shaped adapter that fits into the crankshaft. The wear area was in the middle of the cone.

Last question, what is the best way to insure that the balancer keyway is lined up, and/or stays lined up with the key on the crankshaft?

Ed

 

A little late on this one. But the keyway for the balancer is pretty substantial you shouldn't be able to get the balancer on if it is not lined up. Push the balancer on by hand. It should slide a 1/4 to 1/2 inch before it bumps into the keyway. At this point slowly rotate the balancer by hand while using slight pressure pushing it toward the engine. When it lines up with the keyway you will know. It will slide on quite aways before you need to use the bolt and start torqueing on it.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147

 

Unfortunately it's not too late. I can't get the bolt to go back into the hole. I'm certain that the puller (me and the tool) messed up the first row of threads . Can anyone help me with straightening them out. Auto Zone has a repair kit, but it doesn't have a 5/8 x 18 internal thread chaser.

Thanks for the input T. Roberts.

Ed

 

Found the correct size tap at Car Quest. Put some 3-in-1 oil on the tap and gave it a few turns. Got the threads cleaned up and screwed in the bolt. Went in smooth! The balancer went on and pressed in eaisly just like everyone stated above.

There is still some vibration from the engine. The rubber in the old balancer was pretty beat up and dry rotted--so replacing it was not all in vain. Thinking about replacing the front and rear engine mounts next; but before I do that I'm going check the timing with a timing light and see how much off it is. The motor has over 156,000 miles on it and I won't be surprised if it is off somewhat.

Thanks again, Ed