When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think it is an exhaust valve for sure. Headgaskets usually burn between two cylinders and you would have two cylinders with low compression. Headgaskets also usually leak coolant into the cylinders and produce white smoke out the tail pipe. As these exhaust valves burn they drop small pieces of the valve into the cylinders. This debris can cause major damage. I would not run this engine anymore than absolutely necessary.
i read thru the whole thread and saw nothing about the fact that the bolt in the tower that the oil comes up from the head through has the shank under-cut to facilitate the flow of oil around it.if this bolt was lost or mixed up and a standard type bolt put in it's place,it will restrict the oil.i took a grade 8 bolt and cut down the shank similar to a ford bolt...and if you tend to "****-ize" like i do, you can chamfer the hole in the bottom of the tower to match up to the oil hole coming up from the head...
my cousin will be doing all the engine work and replacing my old heads with a donor truck heads that are 135+ for all 8. I will mention the tower bolt to him, thats a good observation.
he watched it today and agrees the oil should be flowing more, but said on most old heads he pulls he has to clean the crud out of all the holes which makes the flow much better...
I'll have my nose in it watching so i'll keep all these things in mind... THANKS!
he said while its open he will remove and clean the lifters & all the little moving parts.
how do you know if a lifter is bad by looking at it? once its in your hand that is?
I replace lifters if the engine has more than 20-30K Miles on it. Check all pushrods for straight.
Lifters last longer than that, assuming they're in good condition. If they're not making noise I wouldn't even take 'em out.
To check if a lifter is bad, while the rocker shaft assembly is removed, just push down on each pushrod rather hard for about 5 seconds. If you can see the lifter plunger move down, that lifter is bad.
If you put new lifters in it, you have to repeat the cam break-in proceedure. If you dont remember what bore you got the lifters out of, dont put 'em back in. Get new ones.
I agree with the exception of FE motors. Reason for installing new lifters on a low mileage engine while you have it torn down is driven by the weight and PITA factor of the intake manifold. Break in new lifters by running the engine at 1600 RPM for about 20 Minutes. This procedure guaranties a good supply of oil splashed over the camshaft while the lifters seat themselves to the camshaft. I also wanted to caution you and your mechanic to turn the engi9ne over and line up the XX mark on the vibration damper with the timing pointer. This is the position of least valve spring pressure on the rocker shaft. Valve spring pressure will bend the rocker shaft if you are not careful when you remove it. Installing new lifters in the lifter bore is also important. The oil soaked lifter should slide down the bore of its own weight, you should be able to pull the lifter up using the vacuum of oil between the lifter and pushrod end. If not the lifter bore is to tight or nicked during disassembly. Hone the bore until the lifter moves freely within it or your lifter will fail and ruin the camshaft as well.