4x4 hub ??
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4x4 hub ??
1994 XLT 4x4 f150, is the front diff a dana 44-IFS or 44-IFS-HD, I'm doing wheel bearings this weekend, and the torque values range depending on the axle. early model DANA 44 IFS / DANA 44 IFS-HD the torque is 50 ft lbs inner adjusting nut, and 150 ft lbs outer locking nut.
later model axles say unlock the adjusting nut locking splines( not sure what the adjusting nut locking spline is) then turn the nut clockwise to 70 ft lbs, then says disengage adjusting nut locking spline and back off 90 degrees, then retighten to 15-20 ft lbs, I gather on this later model theres is no lock washer and locking nut, can someone shed alittle light on this topic for me before I tear into it? thanks Randy
later model axles say unlock the adjusting nut locking splines( not sure what the adjusting nut locking spline is) then turn the nut clockwise to 70 ft lbs, then says disengage adjusting nut locking spline and back off 90 degrees, then retighten to 15-20 ft lbs, I gather on this later model theres is no lock washer and locking nut, can someone shed alittle light on this topic for me before I tear into it? thanks Randy
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
Moved to appropriate forum.
The D44 HD came on the F-250s, it's an 8 lug unit w/ leaf springs.
You have the regular D44 on your F-150.
On my truck, which is probably the same as yours, you take off the hub assembly, take off the keyed lock (looks like a C w/ a tab on the end which goes into the locknut so it won't back out), then take off the lock nut (its a flatsided nut almost like a regular nut, not the 4 pin'ed style like the bigger trucks).
Take that nut off and then the caliper/pads, and remove the brake rotor. You can now change the bearings.
If I were you, I would replace the u-joints on the front axle, as well as the seals for the wheel bearings and the seals on the stub shaft while you're there. You just have to take the spindle off once you've done all that other owrk. To get it off, remove the bolts holding the spindle on, I believe they're 17mm. I used a (metal, not wood) chisel and hammer to help pry the spindle off the knuckle, there is also a hole behind it to put a punch on it. Get the spindle off and now you're able to pull the axle shafts out of the diff (watch for leaking fluid) and get after those u-joints. This is of coarse if they havn't already been replace recently. I would also get the new stub shaft seal (like 5 bucks at napa) and put it on.
To re-install the setup, make sure you put the spindle w/ that keyway facing up (easier to put that keyed lock back in for the nut w/ it up). Don't go crazy on the spindle nuts, only about 90 ft-lbs. Put some new grease on the sprindle, pack the bearings, put everything back together on the brake rotors, and then slide them in. It's a challenge to get that lock nut back on, but some patience will get it threaded correctly. Spin it down snug while rotating the brake rotor lightly. This helps seat the bearings correctly. Tighten them to the 70-80 ft-lb spec, while turning the brake rotor still, to seat them 100%. Then back it off a 90 degree turn, and then re-tighten them so that there is just a tiny bit of movement in the brake rotor when you have your hands at 12 + 6 and move it. The bearings will get warm when driving and tighten up. If you make them too tight, you'll fry the bearings quickly. Put that keylock in, and put the hubs back together and you're good to go.
Omni, it is very important you read this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=148601
If you havn't already, thank you.
You also will want to inspect the axle shafts when/if you pull them out. Look at the races where the bearings ride on, run you're finger over them and check for pits/bumps. Any nicks or burs and that shaft will need to be replaced.
The D44 HD came on the F-250s, it's an 8 lug unit w/ leaf springs.
You have the regular D44 on your F-150.
On my truck, which is probably the same as yours, you take off the hub assembly, take off the keyed lock (looks like a C w/ a tab on the end which goes into the locknut so it won't back out), then take off the lock nut (its a flatsided nut almost like a regular nut, not the 4 pin'ed style like the bigger trucks).
Take that nut off and then the caliper/pads, and remove the brake rotor. You can now change the bearings.
If I were you, I would replace the u-joints on the front axle, as well as the seals for the wheel bearings and the seals on the stub shaft while you're there. You just have to take the spindle off once you've done all that other owrk. To get it off, remove the bolts holding the spindle on, I believe they're 17mm. I used a (metal, not wood) chisel and hammer to help pry the spindle off the knuckle, there is also a hole behind it to put a punch on it. Get the spindle off and now you're able to pull the axle shafts out of the diff (watch for leaking fluid) and get after those u-joints. This is of coarse if they havn't already been replace recently. I would also get the new stub shaft seal (like 5 bucks at napa) and put it on.
To re-install the setup, make sure you put the spindle w/ that keyway facing up (easier to put that keyed lock back in for the nut w/ it up). Don't go crazy on the spindle nuts, only about 90 ft-lbs. Put some new grease on the sprindle, pack the bearings, put everything back together on the brake rotors, and then slide them in. It's a challenge to get that lock nut back on, but some patience will get it threaded correctly. Spin it down snug while rotating the brake rotor lightly. This helps seat the bearings correctly. Tighten them to the 70-80 ft-lb spec, while turning the brake rotor still, to seat them 100%. Then back it off a 90 degree turn, and then re-tighten them so that there is just a tiny bit of movement in the brake rotor when you have your hands at 12 + 6 and move it. The bearings will get warm when driving and tighten up. If you make them too tight, you'll fry the bearings quickly. Put that keylock in, and put the hubs back together and you're good to go.
Omni, it is very important you read this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=148601
If you havn't already, thank you.
You also will want to inspect the axle shafts when/if you pull them out. Look at the races where the bearings ride on, run you're finger over them and check for pits/bumps. Any nicks or burs and that shaft will need to be replaced.
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thanks for all the help Justin. I had it posted in the appropiate forum but couldn't get a response,so I posted it here sorry. do you need special tools for the key lock and locknut?and when I pull the axles do they just pull out? If I'm not mistaken the passenger side has two u-joints doesn't it.does that whole axle assembly come out, or do you have to separate it at the inner u-joint? and not quite sure what stub shaft seals are? I can do all this work on straight axles in my sleep, but haven't had any experience with split axles at all. thanks for your patients, and dam I'm getting frustrated with my computer, I can't access that ford-truck.com site the link you told me to read I can't get into, I had a computer guy over the other night, but he was no help at all, it must be some kind of setting on my computer that won't let me access that forum, I tried to set my security level to med-low and it just keeps going back to med, I need a better computer guy Thanks Randy
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
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From: Topsfield, MA
Your posts have 1 appropriate forum, this site is so large that we have to keep everything as organized as possible. 
Well, I used a small pick (almost like a dentists pick) to get the keyed lock out, its just a C w/ a tab on tip of the C which slides into that locknut so it can't backout (as it's not very tight). The tab on the end of the C slides between the locknut and the keyway on the spindle. No special tools needed, just something to pull it out with.
The locknut requires a special tool, autozone has them for renting.
Just remember that it's not a 4 pronged socket (those are on the F-250s), it's a nex socket, I believe 2 1/2" (but its a special nex, not a normal 2 1/2" socket). The autozone guy might try to give you the 4 pronger, they're the most popular. If you can get your hands on a haynes manual, it gives you all the instructions on how to do this, as well as work on the rest of your truck. Pretty good deal for $20.
The passanger side axleshaft has 2 u-joints, the drivers side has 1. The axle shaft on the drivers side will just slide out once you have the spindle off. The passanger side axle is actually a 2 piece shaft, it's two shafts in which 1 slides into the other (where the rubber boot is). So you can cut off the wire tie on the boot, and slide the shafts apart. The inner 1/2 of this shaft is c-clipped into the differential, so you can't pull it out without unbolting the diff (PITA). Therefore, you'll have to change that middle u-joint under the truck w/ a C-clamp and a hammer. The outer 1/2 of the shaft can be pulled out of the truck in the manner described above, and taken to a bench to be worked on like the drivers side shaft.
The stub shaft is the shaft that goes into the hub, it goes from the end of the hub, to the 1st u-joint. They call it a stub shaft cuz it's short and stubby There is a seal between the knuckle and the u-joint, called a stub shaft seal. It goes right behind the yoke ears on the shaft, before the knuckle.
The solid d44 is the same as the TTB d44 you have, except for the passanger side shaft, since it's a two piece. The whole procedure is the same on both axles, except for the middle U-joint.
The thread I tried to link you to is stuck on the top of the 87-96 forum, the title is "want my truck". I'm not trying to breathe down your throat about where you put your threads, its just very important.
Well, I used a small pick (almost like a dentists pick) to get the keyed lock out, its just a C w/ a tab on tip of the C which slides into that locknut so it can't backout (as it's not very tight). The tab on the end of the C slides between the locknut and the keyway on the spindle. No special tools needed, just something to pull it out with.
The locknut requires a special tool, autozone has them for renting.
Just remember that it's not a 4 pronged socket (those are on the F-250s), it's a nex socket, I believe 2 1/2" (but its a special nex, not a normal 2 1/2" socket). The autozone guy might try to give you the 4 pronger, they're the most popular. If you can get your hands on a haynes manual, it gives you all the instructions on how to do this, as well as work on the rest of your truck. Pretty good deal for $20.
The passanger side axleshaft has 2 u-joints, the drivers side has 1. The axle shaft on the drivers side will just slide out once you have the spindle off. The passanger side axle is actually a 2 piece shaft, it's two shafts in which 1 slides into the other (where the rubber boot is). So you can cut off the wire tie on the boot, and slide the shafts apart. The inner 1/2 of this shaft is c-clipped into the differential, so you can't pull it out without unbolting the diff (PITA). Therefore, you'll have to change that middle u-joint under the truck w/ a C-clamp and a hammer. The outer 1/2 of the shaft can be pulled out of the truck in the manner described above, and taken to a bench to be worked on like the drivers side shaft.
The stub shaft is the shaft that goes into the hub, it goes from the end of the hub, to the 1st u-joint. They call it a stub shaft cuz it's short and stubby
There is a seal between the knuckle and the u-joint, called a stub shaft seal. It goes right behind the yoke ears on the shaft, before the knuckle.The solid d44 is the same as the TTB d44 you have, except for the passanger side shaft, since it's a two piece. The whole procedure is the same on both axles, except for the middle U-joint.
The thread I tried to link you to is stuck on the top of the 87-96 forum, the title is "want my truck". I'm not trying to breathe down your throat about where you put your threads, its just very important.
