3A Current Drain with Ignition Off on E150
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3A Current Drain with Ignition Off on E150
Hi
I have a 3 amp current drain with the ignition switched off on a 1989 E-150, and note that the fuel gauge is not working. Anyone any idea of the possible cause? No lights are on and I have no radio fitted.
Thanks
Rick
I have a 3 amp current drain with the ignition switched off on a 1989 E-150, and note that the fuel gauge is not working. Anyone any idea of the possible cause? No lights are on and I have no radio fitted.
Thanks
Rick
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I had the alternator checked, and it's good good, delivering 45A. Is there a procedure for isolating a wiring-harness short..? I really don't know where to begin looking and the fault makes the van unusable. If I leave it parked for any period, battery goes dead.
Thanks
Thanks
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: NJ where fun comes to die
Welcome to FTE. Watch the meter and pull the fuses one at a time to see if any one stops the drain. I hate electrical problems. It must be the electric gremlin at work. Good luck.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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On my 85 E150, I had a drain....after shutdown, there is a relay that provides power for 8 to 10 seconds to purge the carb. You can hear what sounds like ticking or water dripping. My relay failed and left the power on all the time, draining the battery in about 2 days or so.
Relay is on passenger side, behind the plastic kick panel, up in the metal work beside the dash. It hooks there on a rubber grommet type gizmo.
Finding the relay, cost me talking to my FedEx mechanics who used to dream in color about Econlines: Buying the rely, cost $26 at Ford: Fixing the current drain: Priceless.
Good luck.
Relay is on passenger side, behind the plastic kick panel, up in the metal work beside the dash. It hooks there on a rubber grommet type gizmo.
Finding the relay, cost me talking to my FedEx mechanics who used to dream in color about Econlines: Buying the rely, cost $26 at Ford: Fixing the current drain: Priceless.
Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
Do you have power door locks? My dad's '88 does this too, there is a problem in the wiring and the door locks lock themselves, and then "jitter". He took the fuse out because they were draingin the battery overnight.
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Hi everyone
Thanks to everyone who so kindly responded to my feeble cry for help, and thank you for giving it. I don't have power locks, so I got the replacement fuel-pump relay today and have my battery on charge and will fit it tomorrow (Saturday) to see if the problem has been solved.
Incidentally, there are two relays under the dash on the passenger side. One is the fuel-pump, color-coded green, the other is the EEC(?) relay, color-coded brown. At Ford dealership today, I was assured that replacements for those relays are now a universal type, not color-coded and with an extra pin-out on the relay body.
They fit OK, but I've yet to determine if they work correctly..! I'll know tomorrow. Cost was $16.70
Rick
Thanks to everyone who so kindly responded to my feeble cry for help, and thank you for giving it. I don't have power locks, so I got the replacement fuel-pump relay today and have my battery on charge and will fit it tomorrow (Saturday) to see if the problem has been solved.
Incidentally, there are two relays under the dash on the passenger side. One is the fuel-pump, color-coded green, the other is the EEC(?) relay, color-coded brown. At Ford dealership today, I was assured that replacements for those relays are now a universal type, not color-coded and with an extra pin-out on the relay body.
They fit OK, but I've yet to determine if they work correctly..! I'll know tomorrow. Cost was $16.70
Rick
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: savannah,ga
place a volt meter in line with your positive bat cable
pull each fuse to isolate the drain
if no fuse stops the drain then startwith circuits that dont use fuses
headlites,ignition, any relays, alt and regulator, etc.
pull each fuse to isolate the drain
if no fuse stops the drain then startwith circuits that dont use fuses
headlites,ignition, any relays, alt and regulator, etc.
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Now vehicle won't start...
Hi again
I have replaced the fuel-pump relay hoping to solve the current-drain problem and had my battery charged overnight. With good battery fitted, when I turn the ignition key I get nothing, zip, zilch. No dash warning lights, no pulling-in of solenoid or turning of starter motor, no click, no clunk, no anything. 'Dead' is a good word..!
Have checked all fuses in fusebox and found a 15A fuse marked 'S/U' which was open-circuit. Replaced it and tried key again - but still nothing.
Please help..!
Rick
I have replaced the fuel-pump relay hoping to solve the current-drain problem and had my battery charged overnight. With good battery fitted, when I turn the ignition key I get nothing, zip, zilch. No dash warning lights, no pulling-in of solenoid or turning of starter motor, no click, no clunk, no anything. 'Dead' is a good word..!
Have checked all fuses in fusebox and found a 15A fuse marked 'S/U' which was open-circuit. Replaced it and tried key again - but still nothing.
Please help..!
Rick
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Go back over your connections, esp those at starter solinoid, starter, and the ignition switch etc.
No juice at all would probably mean a complete disconnect--partial connections make noise, spark, smoke etc.
Good luck.
No juice at all would probably mean a complete disconnect--partial connections make noise, spark, smoke etc.
Good luck.
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You changed the relays that have an extra pin.
Try changing them back to the original.You didn't have this problem until you changed them.That may have also cooked the fuse.
Mike
Try changing them back to the original.You didn't have this problem until you changed them.That may have also cooked the fuse.
Mike
Last edited by Dr No; Jul 10, 2004 at 05:45 PM.
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This problem of no response to my turning the ignition key appeared for the first time on Thursday, before I changed the relay. I assumed that it was because the battery was flat and I expected the engine to turn and the van to start when the battery was charged. It hasn't, of course...
Rick
Rick
