Crossroads
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Crossroads
Well, not really a crossroads, but I need to make a decision regarding my special assignment truck...84 F150 supercab, 351HO with 200,000 plus miles. Rebuilt engine in 95, trans rebuilt 97, pretty much runs like a champ, recently camo painted for deer lease and looks awesome. 
Now, finally the question. Just replaced the heater core so we can at least have heat this winter.....but, do I want to spend $$$ for a complete A/C rebuild? The A/C hasn't worked in at least 5 years, so I reckon I need to change it all. What am I looking at dollar wise, and any recommendations for parts?
Now, finally the question. Just replaced the heater core so we can at least have heat this winter.....but, do I want to spend $$$ for a complete A/C rebuild? The A/C hasn't worked in at least 5 years, so I reckon I need to change it all. What am I looking at dollar wise, and any recommendations for parts?
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OK, not exciting to discuss A/C.....unless you're in Texas. 
Got a quote on all new stuff from acparthouse and I'm impressed. Don't know these old boys, but total cost is under $500.
Anyone done business with this outfit?
Compressor, new with clutch
Evaporator
Condenser
Accumulator
Orifice tube
I need to make hoses and get system charged.
Got a quote on all new stuff from acparthouse and I'm impressed. Don't know these old boys, but total cost is under $500.
Anyone done business with this outfit?
Compressor, new with clutch
Evaporator
Condenser
Accumulator
Orifice tube
I need to make hoses and get system charged.
Last edited by stan v; Jul 8, 2004 at 06:29 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
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From: Marengo, Iowa
Unless the major pieces have failed, I would say it is a waste of money and time to replace them. The evaporator and condenser will be fine unless they have holes in them. The rest of it isn't as bad an idea because all of it can go bad in time.
Last edited by fellro86; Jul 8, 2004 at 08:20 AM. Reason: sp typos
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Well, the coolant leaked out before, after having purchased a new compressor (that hasn't been run since forever).....guess I'll have my wrench check it all first, before I assume the worst. With 20 years of wear on these parts, I figured the best deal was simply replace it all. Thought I might do all the install, and let the mechanic charge....if he will. I'll keep y'all posted.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Marengo, Iowa
most leaks, unless there is a hole punched through, end up being seals, second most common is compressor seals. he could vac it to tellyou how bad a leak, and even possibly where. These systems leak down over time, so it may be as simple as a recharge to get it going again.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Marengo, Iowa
yes, it may be just fine, I have seen it happen. When I first got my 86 the air wasn't working, the pump kicked on and off, so I cleared it out and did the 134 conversion, and it works fine with nothing more than a recharge. Turn the pump by hand and see how it feels, if it turns fine and doesn't seem to have any hang up spots, it may well be ok.
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From: Kalispell, MT
glad to say i don't have the problem of A/C...don't ever want it in a truck, either...if i get a truck that has it...IT WILL COME OUT...one way or another...hehehe...
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I understand no A/C in a truck....if I were in Montana. Whew, not Texas. 
Re-thinking this, I may get lucky and simply have a bad clutch.....that was the reason for pulling the belt to begin with. I'll know by early next week. Thanks for the responses.
Re-thinking this, I may get lucky and simply have a bad clutch.....that was the reason for pulling the belt to begin with. I'll know by early next week. Thanks for the responses.
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From: Littleton, CO
I have a related question ...
I'm thinking about trying to get the A/C working on my '85 F250. I konw the clutch on the compressor is good because the belt was hooked up when I got it. However ... when i turn the a/c on the clutch never engages.
Is there a cutoff switch that doesn't allow the compressor to come on if there's no pressure, or do I need a new compressor?
I'm thinking about trying to get the A/C working on my '85 F250. I konw the clutch on the compressor is good because the belt was hooked up when I got it. However ... when i turn the a/c on the clutch never engages.
Is there a cutoff switch that doesn't allow the compressor to come on if there's no pressure, or do I need a new compressor?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Marengo, Iowa
Yes, if the pressure is too low, it will keep it from cycling, self protection issue, because when the charge gets low, it doesn't circulate the oil properly, so it would seize up the compressor. Same as I said before, have it vac'd and check for leaks that way, and then recharge. With the system vac'd down, you could switch it over to 134 to keep costs down, or any of the R-12 compatible coolants. If you switch to 134, make sure it has the additives to make it compatible with R-12, if you don't, you'll be sorry, but I have done several of these conversions with the Wally World kits and been fine. I know the chain parts stores have them too, check around, I have found they are competitive with the Wally World kits. One thing I like about the kits Wally World offers now is the guage that comes with, rather than having to guess or buy the expensive manifold set. The kits come with the conversion fittings and everything you need to convert them over.
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Picked her up last week with cold air blowing. 
Hey, we went with a used compressor with a 101 day warranty from Charley's Salvage just outside Houston (mech's idea)...new orifice, new accumulator (or dryer?)...anyway, charged, leaked checked (added dye) and the total drive out was under $470. I'll let you know how she does by the end of our summer here....that should be somewhere around when deer season opens, Nov 6.
By the way, mech found a serious vaccum leak that had been causing rough idle and hesitaion/dying.....much easier to start now as a bonus. All in all, I'm tickled.
Hey, we went with a used compressor with a 101 day warranty from Charley's Salvage just outside Houston (mech's idea)...new orifice, new accumulator (or dryer?)...anyway, charged, leaked checked (added dye) and the total drive out was under $470. I'll let you know how she does by the end of our summer here....that should be somewhere around when deer season opens, Nov 6.
By the way, mech found a serious vaccum leak that had been causing rough idle and hesitaion/dying.....much easier to start now as a bonus. All in all, I'm tickled.