Time for the king pin replacement....
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Time for the king pin replacement....
No I am not asking how... I know we have a wonderful tech article. 
I am planning on replacing the axle bushings also? The ones where the I-beam connects to the frame is where I am talking. Has anyone done this? Is it hard to do? It seems easy enough but I figured I would ask the experienced before tackling this project. At least I will get to paint the I-beams and springs to help pretty the truck up.
I am planning on replacing the axle bushings also? The ones where the I-beam connects to the frame is where I am talking. Has anyone done this? Is it hard to do? It seems easy enough but I figured I would ask the experienced before tackling this project. At least I will get to paint the I-beams and springs to help pretty the truck up.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 39
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From: houston TX
I just replaced my axle pivot bushings. yes it was difficult. To remove them you can use any method short of choping up the I beam. I used a two ton arbor press to put them back in and it was still hard, I was acually hanging on the press to get them in. I put a brass bar between the bushing and the press arm to prevent damage to the rubber. once it starts to go in the worst is over
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
The pivot bushings is what you are referring to, Rat. No, they are not easy to get in; they require a press to install.
You might have the shop press out the old king pins and do the pivot bushings at the same time.
You might have the shop press out the old king pins and do the pivot bushings at the same time.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
Yes, it is pretty straight forward. Since you are taking the I-beams out, it makes it easy to change out the radius arm bushings at the same time. They are pretty cheap from the dealer. Since the front end will need to be re-aligned after all this work, it's a good idea to replace any questionable steering parts too.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Round Rock, TX
I don't know why you guys have such a hard time replacing the axle pivot bushings. I spent about 30 minutes removing them on the '73 I-beams I'm about to swap in and I test-fitted the replacements by hand. I replaced the ones on my Bronco with the beams still underneath the truck.
I suppose that if you buy bushings that come with a new outer sleeve that you'd need a press, but most of the poly bushings on the market (Prothane, Energy to name a few) just re-use the outer sleeve so that it doesn't have to be removed. I actually took pictures a few days ago while I removed them; I'll try to post them up tomorrow.
Here's the easiest way to do it (pics to follow):
drill out as much of the old rubber as possible
pull out as much with pliers as you can
use one of those $10 propane torches to burn the bushing out
repeat the last two steps as necessary
clean the sleeve up with some sandpaper
slide the new bushing in
And to answer your second question, the only tricky thing about getting the I-beams out is getting the nut off that holds the radius arm to the beam. Do yourself a favor and buy a 1-1/8" wrench; my wife and I learned that when we stripped the '73.
I suppose that if you buy bushings that come with a new outer sleeve that you'd need a press, but most of the poly bushings on the market (Prothane, Energy to name a few) just re-use the outer sleeve so that it doesn't have to be removed. I actually took pictures a few days ago while I removed them; I'll try to post them up tomorrow.
Here's the easiest way to do it (pics to follow):
drill out as much of the old rubber as possible
pull out as much with pliers as you can
use one of those $10 propane torches to burn the bushing out
repeat the last two steps as necessary
clean the sleeve up with some sandpaper
slide the new bushing in
And to answer your second question, the only tricky thing about getting the I-beams out is getting the nut off that holds the radius arm to the beam. Do yourself a favor and buy a 1-1/8" wrench; my wife and I learned that when we stripped the '73.
Last edited by bigric; Jul 9, 2004 at 12:32 AM.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 39
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From: houston TX
I did replace the outer sleeve. It all came as a unit from orieleys that way. also I noticed that when I finished rebuilding my front end I did not need an alignment. I replaced everything symetricly, (radius bushing, piviot bushing, shocks, kingpins, I-beam bumper) could this be the reason?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
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From: Round Rock, TX
How do you know that you don't need an alignment? You got the alignment checked, or it just goes down the road straight? The replacement parts will not be identical to the old parts, so the measurements made during an alignment will change as the parts are replaced.
When you say that you replaced everything "symetricly," you're doing it exactly the way you're supposed to. You wouldn't replace just one of any of these components; you'd do both sides (well, maybe not always on the radius arm bushings).
At any rate, the truck can still go down the road straight but be out of alignment. Like if you've got the toe way out on both wheels but about equally, it'll go straight but tire wear will be a problem soon.
When you say that you replaced everything "symetricly," you're doing it exactly the way you're supposed to. You wouldn't replace just one of any of these components; you'd do both sides (well, maybe not always on the radius arm bushings).
At any rate, the truck can still go down the road straight but be out of alignment. Like if you've got the toe way out on both wheels but about equally, it'll go straight but tire wear will be a problem soon.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
And here are the pics, as promised:
Starting out:
Drilling:
Picking out rubber:
Torching (use caution if the beams are still under the truck, duh):
Cleaning up:
Ready for the new bushing:
It's a pretty simple job.
Starting out:
Drilling:
Picking out rubber:
Torching (use caution if the beams are still under the truck, duh):
Cleaning up:
Ready for the new bushing:
It's a pretty simple job.
Junior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Love the pics Bigric, did you do the whole job barefooted? If so, you are one tough son of a gun! I can't even go outside for the morning paper without my slippers on! How hard is it to install the new bushings afterwards? do you have to have a press? You don't seem to be the type to take it in to a shop. I bet you just grabbed a hold of the ***** with your teeth or something?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
Yeah, I just did it barefoot. I only wear shoes in the garage about half the time, but I will wear them if there's a chance of dropping something really heavy on my feet.
I pushed the new bushings in by hand to make sure they fit well; there was no need for a press since they reused the old outer sleeve. The bushing kits that the other guys are describing require you to press out the old sleeve and press a new one in, but I don't use those kits. I will have to take the arms to the machine shop because my wife and I could NOT get the king pins out.
I pushed the new bushings in by hand to make sure they fit well; there was no need for a press since they reused the old outer sleeve. The bushing kits that the other guys are describing require you to press out the old sleeve and press a new one in, but I don't use those kits. I will have to take the arms to the machine shop because my wife and I could NOT get the king pins out.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Thanks for the pics Big Ric. I tried getting the bushings to go in but they didn't. I will clean the mating surface a lot better tomorrow. I don't see where it will be too big off a problem. Besides I have a press. Its called a floor jack and a heavy vehicle! I don't think I will need it though.
I used a sawzall to remove the old bushings. That worked great. The rubber came out with a few taps of the hammer.
I used a sawzall to remove the old bushings. That worked great. The rubber came out with a few taps of the hammer.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
Burning really does help get those last bits of rubber out. When we did the Bronco we didn't clean it up with sandpaper and it took a little tapping to get the bushings in, but the bushings on the '73 beams in the picture went in with just hand force.
Junior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Hey guy's!
I took a look at the pivot bushings on my truck, after I had reinstalled the kingpins. Lo and behold one, of the bushings were gone completely! I mean, as in no rubber! The axle is just floating around on the bolt! And I have been driving it that way for about a year! Here's the question; do I have to remove the axle to replace the bushing? Can I somehow slip it below the frame to replace the bushings? And do I have to be barefooted when I do replace it ? Ha Ha seriously any input would be apprieciated
I took a look at the pivot bushings on my truck, after I had reinstalled the kingpins. Lo and behold one, of the bushings were gone completely! I mean, as in no rubber! The axle is just floating around on the bolt! And I have been driving it that way for about a year! Here's the question; do I have to remove the axle to replace the bushing? Can I somehow slip it below the frame to replace the bushings? And do I have to be barefooted when I do replace it ? Ha Ha seriously any input would be apprieciated