Anyone care to explain how you got the front sheetmetal lined up? I just got done spending 3 days working on mine and I don't think that it is any better than it was on Saturday. I'm using a steel hood that didn't come with the cab, new repro steel fenders from OFP in OKC, glass gravel pan and homemade smooth inner fenders...... Sounds like fun right???

I guess my question is what should I start with and hold square? I'm guessing now that I should square the hood to the cab and bring everything off of that?

Any help is appreciated. Also, what is the stock gap between the hood and fenders? around 1/2"??

Thanks guys,
Mike
54-f-100

 

Hey Mike -
Aren't old trucks fun? I had the same problem fitting my 56 front sheet metal, but for different reasons. I can give you tips on how I did it and I followed the factory shop manual instructions for removing/replacing same. My truck had taken a hit in the left front. The fender was repaired and replaced on the truck, but the gravel pan was wrinkled and never repaired, so it drew the whole front end off a little.
Your case is different in that NOTHING on your front came with the truck originally. This hodge-podge of parts will have to be custom fit. Be prepared to do some grinding.
Do you have a front-tilt or stock hinged hood?

 

That's what I get for building an Ohio Truck.....

FYI I'm using a forward flip hood kit, or is it a "reverse" tilt hood?

I guess that this leads to another question. When the pro builders adjust the gaps on a panel, is it done with filler for small adjustments and weld in strips for large adjustments? How durable is a good filler for this use?

What scares me the most is getting everything to fit in bare metal and then having to figure it out again after the color goes on.

Man, I was all excited about it really looking like a truck after almost 3 years but this has got me totally frustrated......

What a hobby

Mike

 

Hi

I started by making sure the rad mount was straight, then add the air deflectors,inner fenders, hood locking panel (forgot the correct name) with lock, fenders and gravel pan then I added my hood (it has a forward tilt kit) and of coarse nothing fit correct.

I have had to open up some of the holes on the cab for the fender mounts, unbend the gravel pan, straighten the air deflectors, throw away the No Limit engineering hood flip kit install a classic products hood flip kit (alot nicer kit), replace the hood lock panel ( it had a dip that I could not get out).

I now see some daylight at the end of the tunnel and I don't think it's a train. It will be interesting when I take it apart to paint then get to go through this with painted parts not bare metal.

I am trying for a 1/8 - 3/16 gap not sure what everyone else has.

It's still more fun then going to work,

Chuck

 

Mike -
Don't use filler on any gaps. Flat panel fills only. It will chip. Weld and grind gap edges.
As you can tell from Chuck's answer above, this job is going to be a hammer-file-weld and slot-the-holes to suit deal. No two cabs were ever exactly the same.
Starting with the radiator support being square is a good marker, since the entire front clip hangs on it. Measue both sides of the radiator support from the lead edge of the verticle door jam to a long straight-edge accross the support. Mark the jam where you take the dimension so that you will measure from the same place later in case the jam isn't exactly verticle (it's very close to verticle). Start by setting the radiator support as far forward as it goes and snug down the attach bolts.
Install all sheet metal on the truck with a loose fit (loose bolts). Dont install the radiator or grill yet. This will give you access, if necessary, later.
The first primary fit that you have to make will be at the forward upper edge of the fenders/hood. When that shape fairs well between hood and fenders, and is square to the frame (door jam), you are ready to fit everything else. I would use a bolt/nut and wahser setup just aft of the front point of fenders and hood between the two to set the gap between hood and fenders at 3/16 (which is close to the 5/32 nominal factory fit for the door gaps). You can weld these bolt holes closed (or not) later, but that will hold all three together as a unit while you jockey things around. Or you can just keep checking it as you go.
Jockey the front clip forward/back until you like the fit (gap) between the fenders/hood near the cowl. Don't be surprised if the gap between fenders/hood is not straight. It seldom is. The cowl has a wedge effect on this gap as you move fore-aft. Let the inner fenders just ride along with everything. You can slot those attach holes at the cowl as required later.
Now check the gap at the back of the hood and the cowl recess. If the gap is excessive, jockey the clip back until at least one area of the seam looks good enough. This jockeying will change the fender/hood gap, so you'll have to find the best compromise. You can use your idea of welding strips into the gap to dial it in.
When you get the best overall fit that you can, you may be looking at welding onto the back edge of the hood to fill the gap or grinding the back edge in places to get the gap even.
Slot holes as necessay and snug eveything down. Voila!
This whole excercise is an example of why the Hot Rod shows on TV (where evrything is just supposed to bolt on) are so full of crap.

 

I'll take it all back apart tonight and give that a try.. Thanks Randy Jack

Anyone else with any tricks or other solutions?

It's nice knowing that I'm not the only one with this problem. Misery loves company

Mike

 

Hey Mike -
This ain't misery. This is fun with old trucks! You will feel so good when it's complete and you'll have a great story for cruise nights. Believe me, you'll get plenty of questions and attaboys from the guys who notice good fitup and have tried to do the same themselves.

 

I worked for a week to get everything aligned on mine as best as I could. Then I took it to its first cruis-in. As I walked up to the truck to leave, I could see the whole dog house was tilted to the right. It was no longer parrallel with the front bumper. So it was back to the garage for more tweeking on the support rods. Others are much more detailed and experienced than I am, but I say: just get it all bolted together semi snug. Then adjust the support bars to hold everything in position. (Use the hood as a guide with 1/4'-5/16" gap) After it all lines up, tighten every bolt down. And be prepared to adjust as necessary. John

 

Not that I am particularly talented at this.

1. Level the cab
2. Hood lined up with cab
3. Adjust fenders to the hood.
4. Viola, you're done.

Don't I wish. But it makes sense to me. Failure to start with the cab and hood pretty much correct first, leads to endless fender adjustment that leads to nowhere.