I want to convert my 69 f100 to disc brakes, there was a tech article on it but I can't seem to find it, can anyone get me to it.

EDIT:

never mind, I found it thanks anyway, anybody have any info on a power steering conversion for the 69 f100?
thanks

 

Find a donor truck 73-79 with power steering and swap the axles and power steering into your 69. Don't forget the brake proportioning valve and remember the manual steering column is longer than the power column

Trail Rider

 

Shrike, where are you laocated in GA? I am near Augusta.
Search the '61 - '66 forum for great details on the PS and PB swaps. Be sure you reference the '65 and '66 trucks only because the '64 and earlier trucks are not the same.

 

I want to do this conversion also, would you pass along info in obtaining the tech article?

 

The actual link is "Tech Articles" on the upper right hand corner of the screen.

I am still a believer in swapping the entire front end. It can be done in a day with simple hand tools. The biggest benefit is when buying parts. Instead of having to tell the parts guy at the counter (who has no idea what they're doing in the first place), I need kingpins for a 70 F100 with 77 spindles, you can just tell them I need kingpins, pads, rotors (or whatever you need) for a 75 F100 (or whatever year your frontend is).

Trail Rider

 

Thanks, I think I will gather the parts to swap out the entire front end, I know where to find a donor... just wasn't sure if it was a straight swap or not. I'm a new fan of these trucks and a new poster to this site. Thanks, again.

Scott

 

Here is the link!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...conversion.php

 

thanks for the help guys, i think i'll go with the complete front end swap, it seems like a lot less headaches, banjopicker66, i'm down in valdosta, quite a ways from you, later

 

I did the complete front end swap on my 70 F-100 using a 77 donor truck. I used all the components out of the 77. Be advised that the front end on the 77 is much wider if you use the I beams. I am probably going to go and see if I can get my 70 I beams and radius arms back from the junk yard and swap them out. I am concerned with what may be a handling problem and fender clearance issues due to the difference in width between the front end and the rear end. I am doing an off the frame restore on this truck so I don't have it on the road yet. I thought about using the entire rear end out of the 77 but I would have to move the spring pads and shock brackets and then a gear change because the 77 rear is auto. and the 70 is standard. If anyone has done this front end swap to A wider front end I would appreciate hearing from you.

 

Here's some excerpts from my "Big Red Truck--Over 30" Journal. The vehicle's a '68 F-100, 360, now c-6, now pdb, now ps. c-6 came from a '72, pdb came from a '75 & a '78, ps came from a '75. The job is about two years old now.

Luck with pdb conversion was not what I had hoped for. I worked all day the first Fri and Sat and the Big Red Truck was still up on blocks.

Here's what I managed to get done in two days:
1) took off old I-beams and steering linkage, installed new bushings on '78 beams
2) test fit '78 beams (test failed, too wide),
3) moved new bushings off new beams onto old beams and reinstalled on truck,
4) moved new spindles and rotors off new beams onto old beams, kingpins were a bitch
5) spit on truck (both days)

Left to do on the second weekend was:
1) install calipers (needed caliper support keys)
2) reinstall steering linkage (used '78 linkage that came with disk spindles)
3) swap out pedal assembly (put '75 pedal on '68 bracket with new bushings)
4) swap out m/c and add booster
5) install new plumbing (inverted flares aren't as hard to make as you may have heard)
6) bleed the system (had to replace one rear wheel cylinder after I rounded off the shoulders on the bleeder valve and then broke off an easy-out in the hole)
7) spit on truck one final time

In my opinion, from the standpoint of level of effort required, someone working alone in the driveway is much better off to just leave the I-beams in place and swap only the spindles. That's assuming two things. One, that you can get your kingpins out (not a small task if they're original equipment) and, two, that there's no need to replace the I-beam and radius arm bushings. It took me two jacks, a come-along, a couple of big c-clamps, a pipe wrench, a crow bar and some miscellaneous shims and wedges to spring my beams back into place. Plus, if the spindles and rotors are mounted, I doubt one guy can do it at all simply because of the off balance weight distribution.

I swapped out a 3-speed tranny for a c-6 and I swapped out my old armstrong steering for power. I'd do either again in a heartbeat. There was mental effort as well as physical labor involved in them and I truly enjoyed meeting the challenges those projects provided. I will never try to frig with another I-beam. I grew weary of the project very quickly, unfortunately long before I finished.

Dan Blackwell

 

i'm afraid to ask how the power steering swap went, but things like this are good to know, some of us have to go the hard road so others don't have to. thanks for that info, makes sense, if it ain't broke don't fix it. thanks, dan

 

PS and c-6 together took about a week of evenings after work and a Saturday. I changed driver's side engine perch, steering column, drive shaft, etc., etc., etc. I had all the pieces on hand before I started, down to the bushings to hook up the linkage. Like I said before, I had a good time doing these two jobs.

Dan

 

what's the reason for changing the drivers side engine perchs? i'm gonna start the same project real soon and i want to get all my ducks lined up if ya know what i mean. thanks

 

The engine perches must be changed only on certain circumstances.
1. If you are changing the engine from one type to another, say from six to a V-8. This doesn't always hold true, so double check.
2. If upgrading to power steering from factory manual steering the driver's side perch may interfere with the power steering gearbox. Early perches, especially for the FE, were straight across, and the Ford power steering box made by Saginaw cannot be installed without cutting a notch in the perch.
The later FE perches (driver's side only in this case) are mounted a little further foward on the frame, and swept back at an angle to meet the engine at the same block mount point.
So, it is probably a little easier and definitely a whole lot nicer looking to change out the perch for the correct one.

 

Red 68 : I noticed that you mentioned using the steering linkage from the 75 model truck on your power steering swap. I am doing the swap on a 70 model f100 2wd. I had 77 linkage for mine and it appears that since the axles are too wide the linkage would also be too wide. So I went and got my old I beams and Linkage back. I can still get the 77 linkage if I need it. Were you able to adjust it down to fit with the tie rod end or was it a direct bolt up? I would rather use the 77 linkage because I won't have to grind the 1/8 off the spindle ears then. I spit on my truck about once a week. Thanks