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rough idle has stumped me

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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 09:45 AM
  #16  
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to get the gunk out of your lower intake. check out SEAFOAM . they sell it at napa. you run half of can through your vacum brake line then the rest goes into your take. this stuff does well to clean up the inside of your motor. maybe your issue is due to a sticky valve . this will help alot.

late
 
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 11:44 AM
  #17  
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if you go the seafoam route..say ur using half a can..suck alot through the engine...while someone is keeping it from stalling at the pedal

then let it stall when u get to how much of a can you want to use, then let it set with it stalled for at least 10 minutes..the longer the better really, its just breaking up carbon and other deposits

then start er up.ur gonna get a TON of white smoke during this, just a warning
 
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 02:47 PM
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Okay... I just got a can of Sea Foam... BUT this morning I put about 20 gallons of fuel and added Lucas fuel treatment... a little more than 8 oz. Is it okay to put the rest of the Sea Foam in the tank with the Lucas??? Or should I put the rest down the oil? I just did an Oil change this past weekend...
 
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 10:48 PM
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I did the Sea Foam thing in the upper air intake manifold. I also cleaned the Air Idle bypass valve although it wasn't as dirty as I expected it to be, I had tested resistance previously so I know its working. Still Idles rough and sputters when accelerating. My next move is to check for vacuum leaks, I just got a check valve and if everything is okay I am moving on the the fuel pressure regulator. If its not the fuel pressure regulator I guess I will go on to MAP and MAF sensor, the only things left besides clogged cats! All indications point to a faulty throttle position sensor, but I replaced it with a new one... weird!

On a side note, I could tell the difference the sea foam makes... the engine was running sluggish, especially uphill and now you can feel the horses... too bad they are all coughing on the way up! Thanks for the tip
 
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 07:52 AM
  #20  
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I just did a lot of maintenence with the beast this weekend too, and it runs worse then when I started. I put plugs in, thinking I was fouling one of them, new wires, a cap and a rotor. Now, with all 8 cylinders running again, and a new exhaust, I feel like I lost a ton of power. Maybe it will take a couple of starts for the computer to catch up?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 10:02 AM
  #21  
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The computer catches up after driving for several miles in different scenarios like going up hill, down hill, fast, slow, etc...oh and load capacity...

have you replaced your TFI module?

I am looking into replacing that myself... I am trying to remember why I had to replace one once on another bronco I had several years ago...
 
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:27 PM
  #22  
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I replaced the TFI module... still the same
 
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 09:36 AM
  #23  
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did you replace your map sensor yet?
 
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 09:47 AM
  #24  
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I am saving the best for last! hehehe I think that is what I will be doing as I am running out of options... another thing I was considering was a plug wire leak (or at least thats what it sounds like) ... but correct me if I am wrong here, that miss would happen irregardless of engine temperature right? The problem I face deals with the engine running at normal operating temp. and when it is cold, it runs without a problem (thats because the PCM is compensating for lack of temp. by running rich) so it has to be related to the TB or intake manifold... right?

I was looking for the MAP sensor but don't know what it looks like and where it is located... someone posted elswhere that it is on the "left" fender but I get confused when people refer to it this way as you don't know what reference frame they are using...
 
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 12:23 PM
  #25  
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I found the MAP sensor, pasenger side upper firewall... I will replace it today... hope it works.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 04:07 PM
  #26  
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I replaced the MAP sensor... problem still there... I am at a loss for words aswell.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 04:24 PM
  #27  
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did you disconnect the battery. depress the brake so the ecu is fully drained of power. reconnect battery and drive for about an hour allowing the ecu to relearn
 
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #28  
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no... didn't do that... I thought you only did that to clear codes stored in memory so that they don't show up again after you fix something

Is that the procedure? I will try it tommorrow...

BTW another symptom that I did not mention because I just noticed is poor gas milage... very poor! the worst I have ever seen... it is incredible how crappy it is
 

Last edited by redrumybronco; Jul 9, 2004 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 12:46 AM
  #29  
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Kemical: oh boy... I finally figured out what was wrong... it is something I overlooked... something silly... cheap and easy to fix... I feel so dumb

I had made an inspection of the most accessible spark plug wires awhile ago and since I found that they were in good shape I didn't bother to check them all but today when I was going to disconnect the battery, as you mentioned, I decided to check the ones that were difficult to get to that I didn't check before, part of the reason was that today I had a small step ladder and it was easier to do this time around... I pulled out the farthest plug wire on the passenger side and found a big crack in the boot.... a big stupid crack! it is the only one that is bad... all the others are good.

Well if anything it was a learning experience, thanks for your help.
 

Last edited by redrumybronco; Jul 11, 2004 at 12:48 AM.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 11:43 AM
  #30  
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Would you mind having your bronco call mine? Our relationship would be much better if it were only little things that went in my bronco instead of "holy crap hold onto your wallet" repairs.

I just did all of my plugs, wires, cap and rotor, new O2 Sensor, new relay for the comp, new exhaust, new TB, new ICM, IAC...now that my tranny is going, it's all a moot point!!!
 
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