I don't know much about relays... Anything I need to look for specifically?
Light Switch Mod?
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Light Switch Mod?
I'm stupid, and my door alarm isn't very loud, and if it's rainy I like to have my lights on. This isn't a good combination. So I'm sitting here trying to figure out a way to rewire so that when I pull the key out of the ignition, the lights will turn off. Is this possible? Can I Take the battery connection (Blk/orn wire connected to the light switch) off, and hook that terminal up to the red/grn coming from the l1 or l2 terminals on the ignition switch (which go to terminal 14 on the instrument cluster connector), or will that fry my instrument panel?
I'm trying to find a way to do this without using a relay, if that's possible.
thanks!
Rick
I'm trying to find a way to do this without using a relay, if that's possible.
thanks!
Rick
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 3
From: Belleville, Ontario
Using a $10 relay would be the safe way to do the mod.
You could run a power lead to the relay from any switched fuse in the interior panel. Put a male spade connector on the lead & buddy it up with the fuse in the panel.
Or, test any unused fuse spaces to find one that is switched and run the relay independent of all other circuits.
AL.
You could run a power lead to the relay from any switched fuse in the interior panel. Put a male spade connector on the lead & buddy it up with the fuse in the panel.
Or, test any unused fuse spaces to find one that is switched and run the relay independent of all other circuits.
AL.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 3
From: Belleville, Ontario
I just grabbed some relays from a scrap Intrepid today for my truck cap lighting & acc. power project. I plan on disgussing the wiring system with a buddy tomorrow. After that, I'll have all the pins identified & be able to draw you a map to do your lights.
AL.
AL.
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From: Virginia
Here's a relay you may be able to find at walmart, and the auto parts store.
Hook the orange/black feeding the headlight switch to #30
Hook a wire from #87 to the spot on the switch where the orange/black was.
Hook #85 to a good sheetmetal ground.
Hook #86 to what you want to trigger the headlights. Either a spot in the fuse box or the other place you were talking about. #86 will draw very little current.
Hook the orange/black feeding the headlight switch to #30
Hook a wire from #87 to the spot on the switch where the orange/black was.
Hook #85 to a good sheetmetal ground.
Hook #86 to what you want to trigger the headlights. Either a spot in the fuse box or the other place you were talking about. #86 will draw very little current.
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Awesome! That's exactly what I was looking for! My misconception was that the relay needed constant power. I think I finally understand relays. 
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 3
From: Belleville, Ontario
Not all relays are the same.
Bosch relay part #033214150 powers both the 87 pins together. Great for fog lights!
The relay pictured above is different. You have to confirm whether pin 87 or 87a will provide power when the relay is switched ON.(sorry,I wasn't paying attention at that point). The other 87, when the relay is switched OFF, is live. Must be power for "memory".
On the Bosch relay the wiring is as follows:
pin #30=main power in (originally went into headlight switch).
pin #85=ground to chassis.
pin #86=switched power from fuse box or ignition switch.
pin(s) #87(notice there's no "a")=return power to headlight switch.
If you choose to add driving lights, you can use the second 87 pin for them. This is not an option with the first relay shown.
How's that? Clear as mud?
AL.
P.S. Now can you see where the idea you had about relays requiring constant power came from. They both receive it, but only one needs it for the memory circuit.
Bosch relay part #033214150 powers both the 87 pins together. Great for fog lights!
The relay pictured above is different. You have to confirm whether pin 87 or 87a will provide power when the relay is switched ON.(sorry,I wasn't paying attention at that point). The other 87, when the relay is switched OFF, is live. Must be power for "memory".
On the Bosch relay the wiring is as follows:
pin #30=main power in (originally went into headlight switch).
pin #85=ground to chassis.
pin #86=switched power from fuse box or ignition switch.
pin(s) #87(notice there's no "a")=return power to headlight switch.
If you choose to add driving lights, you can use the second 87 pin for them. This is not an option with the first relay shown.
How's that? Clear as mud?
AL.
P.S. Now can you see where the idea you had about relays requiring constant power came from. They both receive it, but only one needs it for the memory circuit.
Last edited by Dealford; Jun 30, 2004 at 10:00 PM.
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I wound up getting a relay from ratshack, $6. My misconception was that it was something like a mechanical transistor... Where, if one circuit was on, the relay would use its 12v constant line to power the other circuit...
I think I have it sorted now though! Will find out in the next couple days...
I think I have it sorted now though! Will find out in the next couple days...