1. Should I lose the A/C? How much hp would I get back?

2. Is the K&N air filter "all that and a bag of chips"? or is there a mo' betta air filter? (does the K&N oil help the air flow or clog it???)

3. Is the Mallory "Unilite" distributor w/ Blaster 2 coil ok? or is the MSD the way to go? Even with the new Optima Red top battery, Butch doesn't always fire right up. Or, could that be the NAPA starter I have? Champion plugs, Taylor 8mm wires (in Ford blue, of course!).

Did I miss the boat anywhere on these 3 things?

Butch n Me

 

The AC doesnt take any HP to not use it (clutch engages the compressor when used) so I would keep it for comfort.

I am running the K&N and it does work. Not as big a gains as stated (surprise there hm?) but worth it for the added MPG. The oil is what the dirt sticks to and helps when you need to wash it. It shouldnt impede the airflow because you coat it with oil, then wring it out. it is pretty dry actually.

the distributor and coil thing I cant help you with.

Hope I helped a bit.

Bdd

 

Do some searching on this site for advise about K&N, the vast majority of posters with actual detailed results don't much care for them.
-Marginal HP pick up in most cases.
-No real MPG increases told by most.
-Increased dirt into intake through filter.

Either electronic dist is a definite improvment. Have always had luck with MSD, but sure either fine. Certainly improves the start ability.

 

If I were to replace the K&N filter with another brand, what brand(s) are better or best?

Thanks again!
Butch n Me

 

If you want a good low cost electronic ignition go get a Ford Duraspark II dizzy.

 

Air Filters-
Purolater filters (any type) are hard to beat, good quality and usually priced reasonably.
Motorcaraft also.

 

1. Should I lose the A/C? How much hp would I get back?

No, that's crazy talk. It's hot in CA and it only hurts you with a little weight when it's off.

2. Is the K&N air filter "all that and a bag of chips"? or is there a mo' betta air filter? (does the K&N oil help the air flow or clog it???)

You won't gain much over a K&N HP wise by switching. I agree the K&N may not be the ticket for good protection.

3. Is the Mallory "Unilite" distributor w/ Blaster 2 coil ok? or is the MSD the way to go? Even with the new Optima Red top battery, Butch doesn't always fire right up. Or, could that be the NAPA starter I have? Champion plugs, Taylor 8mm wires (in Ford blue, of course!).

The MSD is a great distributor. I would recommend it. You won't gain much power though unless your current setup is not functioning correctly. I am an Autolite spark plug fan. Again, no real big improvement if your current plugs aren't fouled.

We've been following your build for years. Most would be happy but you clearly are not content with your setup. And that's OK, it's Daryl's truck. I think you have got about all your getting from a 302 without trashing your mpg and streetability in your heavy truck. Time to make a bigger move IMO.

1. Get a 351 shortblock and you can use some of your current parts.

2. Stroke that 302 to about 330 cubes. Use a quality kit. You can go up to around 347 cubes with a 302 but the risk of blowageness syndrome will rise significantly.

3. Get a 351W block and stroke it to a 393. It will absolutely scream, eat most big blocks for supper while remaining SB light. It will be far more reliable than a 347 and I will be very jealous. It is a very popular stroker and proven to not be a flakey engine mod.

Yes this is expensive, but Butch is worth it. Maybe start working a little some OT.

 

Hmmm,
Interesting ideas, gents. I assume the 351W stroked to a 393 would fit the same motor mounts as my 302? Would it tie up directly to my AOD? Would I have to make mod's to the tranny? (Stall converter? etc) Would the 351/393 heads clear my power booster/dual master cylinder setup? And what about the headers? Would they clear? Would I have to increase the diameter of exhaust due to more... everything? Brakes. Since I'd have a "go faster" truck, wouldn't I also need "stop better" brakes? (not certain the '88 Dakota IFS brakes would be as effective with the extra weight of the 393?) Would the 393 stroker kit be carbureted? or fuel-injected?

Information-gathering...
Daryl

 

351w and 302 blocks are virtually identical. The head bolts are bigger on the 351, the block is a bit taller if I remember right, I know the exhaust ports are a bit higher (less than 1/4" I believe) and all the bolt patterns are the same so yes you can use everything as is. If you use a rad cam you may want to increase the stall. We use to build 428 small blocks out of 351s and bolt on some aussie 351 heads with a 302 boss intake.. make for unbelievable HP out of such a small package.

 

The 351 deck height is approximately 1.2 inches greater than the 302. The intake manifold will not fit. I replaced a 302 with a 351 in my 55 and found that all brackets missed by about 1.2 inches. The exhaust manifolds stuck out farther and I had to grind the bottom on the drivers side. The oil pan is about 1/2 inch deeper. The torque converter will bolt up. Linkage to the AOD will have to be changed to accommodate the taller block. Other than that, no problems. Look very carefully at anything close to your exhaust manifolds and bottom of the oil pan for possible interference. Be prepared to possibly swap some brackets.

 

Daryl, let me make a suggestion: Have Butch dyno'd so you know that engine is working at its best. I'm just guessing, but I would think $50-100 would do it, especially if a group of guys come in together as a "Club." I remember some time back you were concerned about Butch's lack of "laynrubberability." You are geared lower than I am and my 289 will spin that tire even with the 275's. Is it possible the carb or distributer is not setup correctly. Are you still using points? When you say the engine doesn't start right away, that seems strange to me. (Maybe the carb is draining back down through the intake??) I only bring these things up to make sure you don't spend a lot of money to fix something basic. Good luck, John

 

Jag John,
What exactly does a "dyno" include? and what information will I get from it? I have a Mallory Unilite distributor w/ a new cap and rotor. The Champion spark plugs are newer and the Taylor 8mm wires are about 2 years old (roughly 1500 miles on them). The Optima battery is new. The Blaster 2 coil and the distributor itself are the oldest element in the ignition system... at least 4 years old that I know of (came with the truck when I bought it used).

Does this shed any light in any particular direction that I should look to first? And again, what does a "dyno" include exactly and what info do I get from it?

Thanks again John,
Butch n Me

 

John

A dyno run is an outstanding idea. I too am curious if Daryls truck runs as good as it could. I have this feeling he has a desire for torque that may be tough to satisfy with a 302.

I guarantee a stroked 393 would end his power woes in any event. As eluded too above by others, many of your 302 parts won't work, but you won't likely have to reinvent the truck either like you might if you change to a 460 for instance.

 

Daryl, the dyno will show the engine HP and torque at different rpm under a load condition. By simulating the run, they can see if one part of your power band is not up to spec. Also, if you have your buddy there that is a whiz at engine tuning (Timing, carb, etc), he can try out small adjustments and see if they make significant improvements on subsequent tests. Maybe even slap that K&N on there to see if it helps. If you do decide to sell that 302, let me know. I may have a buyer for you if the price is right.

(By the way, I am not sure if you live in a dusty area. If so, I would not risk the K&N. It lets more air through all right, but if not carefully maintained, I think other stuf will come through also. JMHO. Good luck, John

 

OK, so I'm gonna:
1. Get Butch dyno'd and see if the 2000 stall converter in the AOD s/b bumped up to a 2200 or 2500;

2. lose the K&N (I live in a mostly agricultural area, so yes it's a bit dusty at times!) and get a Purolator air filter (hopefully they make it in the same 14"X3" size as my K&N), or consider a fuel injection system instead;

3. then see if a MSD ignition system is in order;

4. then determine if the 625 Carter is perhaps too much, and an Edelbrock 600cfm is the ticket;

5. then, toss an anchor to stop me from spinning like a top!!!

Dyno will be next... I'll letcha know the results and suggestions by "my guy".
(Hey, you gottaguy? Yeh, I gottaguy, downtown. Name's Louie. Tell 'im I sentcha..." ).