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I have a 92 Mark III conversion. 5.0L 155k miles.. Everything was fine until I decided to clean it and wash it up for my wife..(scared it to be clean I think)..but anyway the fuel pump is running constantly once the key is turned on..used to just run for a few seconds then shut off and the check engine ligt is stayin on. tried to start it up but it wouldn't start??..pulled engine cover and i have spark, and seperated fuel lines at the engine and i have fuel coming up and fuel returning and 30 plus psi. I turned the distributor clockwise looking at it and got it to start but is blowing black smoke and what seems to be raw fuel out the pipe,and not enuf power to move it. I capped the return line with my thumb to see if the pump would stop after building pressure but it keep running. What tells the pump to shut off after turning the key on and after it primes?
Any help?? ideas??..timing chain maybe?...picked up a scanner but it will not give any codes.. just stays in the original 000 position...
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated
Possibly the timing chain. If it has MAF, I would check it. If not, I would check the vacuum line to the MAP sensor. It could be off. They will run real rich that way.
Also, the fuel pump relay could be sticking (Green one usually on passenger side wheel well under the hood)
You should get a code if the Ck Eng light is on, if not, you could have a bad ECM.
The fuel pump relay is located under the hood on the right fender, I have found them to be hanging upside down and filled with water.
It is located where rainwater (and washing) falls on it at the edge of the hood and it must be secured to the fender with the wires down.
The water in it could cause it to short internally and keep the fuel pump on.
I hope this solves part of your problem.
well i found the relay...thats not it.. there are three of them together...lucky for me they are all the same so i checked them with a meter all checked the same..rotated thier positions and same thing is still happening. i did find that is is veryhard to start after sitting overnight..like its not getting enuf fuel.and that after i get it started if i cover the throttle body openings the engine smooths out at idle instead of loping like it has a real cam in it.??
Have you tried backing the idle screw out some?
The pump should only run for a couple of seconds when the key is first turned on. If the relay is good, then I would suspect a faulty ECM.
lxman, I got to start checking sensors yesterday and went to unplug the fuel relay but the three that I thought where the fuel relay was is not it..unplugged all three but pump kept running. I think it may be in the power distribution box, will check this evening..findings on sensors is the the map is working with vacuum..engine dies if power is removed. O2 doesn't matter connected or not..reading 0 resistance across +12 and grd teminal cold. check engine light still on which has got me wondering about the ecm. timing check was fine.
lxman...well didn't find a green relay but did find one inthe P D box labeled fuel...it stopped the pump when i pulled it..checked it out and it checked fine..guess I will see tomorrow if i can find an "ecm"... the light is still on but won't initalize to read a code. I found a test procedure on fordfuelinjection.com for the "eec" and everything checked fine going to it.. so I am thinking thats all thats left that i can't check.
eec and ecm..same thing correct?
The power goes through the fuel pump relay to the enertia switch and then to the fuel pump, if you pull the fuel pump relay, the pump will stop, there is no other power path to the pump unless someone has done some creative wiring.
blurry..haven't tried a different scanner but used it on my ranger and it worked fine.
and have also tried jumping the connector to get the check engine to flash a code but it stays on solid..
fsc, i pulled the relay so i could check to make sure the contacts weren't stuck in closed position..the pump will not shut off when the key is in the on position. but after more searching i found that the ecm on the dizzy is what tells the pumps to stop after priming when the key is first turned on. which would explain why they continue to run but not why the check engine is staying on.? confused.(and i thought cars were going to be a pita after they stopped using points)..I am greatful for all the help and hints here guys..
The module on the dizzy is called a TFI (thick film integrated) module.
The EEC is the computer in the truck that controls all of the engine functions.
Well got the problem solved finally, the eec went out. got the new one in last night, turned key to on position, fuel pump came on 2 seconds shut off, hit the starter and it fired right up and purred like a kitten. I went out for a test drive and after about five miles or so it started to chug a little,(missing) then there was a hesitation when hitting the gas then all smoothed out and it was fine for the next ten miles..I hooked up the scanner and it passed the KOEO test but came up with a 428 egr voltage below expected? on the KOER test. will look at that asaic...I would like to thank all of you that helped out.
Now when I pulled the old eec out I found the it has had a power mod done to it, Factory I assume..plugged in to the rear of the eec was a FORD STREET AND PERFORMANCE ELECTRONICS HIGH PERFORMANCE POWER MODULE. I didn't put this back on to the new one for fear of not knowing if the module or the eec was actually bad, anyone know anything about these?.it seemed to run fine without this and i didn't notice any difference in the amount of power on the road.
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