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Ok, we figured out that it is probably the light switch that needs to be replaced. I've bought the replacement switch but I cannot figure out how to get the dashboard off so I can make switch the switch.
Any thoughts? BTW, I have a '97 Ford Explorer. Will I need any special tools?
No special tools - I will try to remember this the best I can:
* Take radio bezel plate off - 2 screws under radio.
* Take dash plate under sterring wheel off - 4 bolts on bottom of plate.
* Take steel plate off behind that - 4 or 5 screws I think
* Take 3 screws out from dash panel that hold it to dash pad
* Pull dash panel down making sure not to tear out pins
- A tip is to tilt steering wheel down and pull shifter into '1'
* The headlight switch is mounted to the dash panel - 2 phillips head screws.
- The front of the switch pulls off the shaft.
* Unplug old switch - install new one - and reinstall in reverse.
Hope I didn't forget anything. I have taken mine apart numerous times, just got to be habit and really do not pay attention anymore.
If you need anything, let me know. It is not that hard, just time consuming on the first time..
I had diagnosed the "no headlight" problem in my '96 Explorer as a bad headlight switch, got a new one at the dealer, figured out how to replace the switch, but then still had no headlights. Only way I can get the bulbs to light is to use the quick flash on the column. any suggestions?
Got it! The culprit was the multi-purpose switch on the steering column. Boy - it would have been so much easier if I had known the multi purpose switch could also wipe out the headlights. Replacing the headlights switch was a bear and it proved not to be necessary!
I think that I'm having the same problem with my '95 Explorer EB w/ autolights. I've tried changing the bulbs, traced the wires back from the lights, had someone try changing out the headlamp switch, no dice...
Could you give more details on changing out that multi-purpose switch?
Casey, it was not hard at all. Three phillips screws on the underside of the steering column loosen the plastic collar. You also have to remove the tilt-wheel handle, but before you do, move the tilt wheel all the way down to remove the top of the collar, then all the way back up. The tilt wheel handle twists off (it is notched for a wrench, just past the **** or you can twist the **** with a vise-grip). There are two brass TORX screws which hold the switch to the column. Once you loosen them, the switch comes off in your hand. There are two connectors which pull out when you hold up the prongs which hold them in. Unplug the old and plug in the new. Done deal.
Two weeks of aggrevation went away when I replaced the ****'en switch!
Thanks Yonkers....
That was EXTREMELY easy and was indeed the cause of the problem!
One note to those that want to attempt this repair: the hardest part was unplugging the wiring harnesses from the old switch. There are 2 locking tabs on each harness that need to be simultaneously pried apart before you can pull the harness out. Of course, the tabs are on opposite sides of the harness and of course, there is only about 1/2" of slack on the wiring. Be patient and you will get it.
$50 for the switch and $10 for a set of Torx screwdrivers....MUCH better than whatever the dealer was going to charge! Thanks again.