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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

clutch shudder

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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:13 PM
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flyinv55's Avatar
flyinv55
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clutch shudder

when I take off in first gear in my 82 F-100 manual trans the whole truck shudders so bad it feels like the dash board is going to fall off... only does this in 1st gear. I went to the auto parts store to buy a new clutch and he says he needs to know if its a 10" or 11" disc. Is there anyway to tell what size disc without taking it all out first? Also what are the odds my clutch is fine and my flywheel needs resurfacing? or should I just replace the clutch set and resurface the flywheel, probably depends on the thickness of the disc and there again would I have to remove the trans to determine that???
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:45 PM
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You most likely have a 10" clutch. Look on E-bay - a guy has 11" clutch & flywheel for $75. They are Ford parts - several have got them with no problems and the 11 would be an upgrade from the 10.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:55 PM
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I checked ebay after reading your post but didnt find it......can you forward a link please?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 12:59 PM
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Look under "Ford 300"
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 01:31 PM
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fly.....Are you in a humid area?
I'm in S Texas and when it gets real humid, like in the morning, I need to feather the clutch. I guess the disc absorbs a little of that moisture. No biggie to me.
If you replace any of it, replace it all.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 01:33 PM
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what the hell, everybody on this thread is online now, early afternoon. Doesn't anybody work anymore???
Somebody needs to pay for my Social Security!!!
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 01:39 PM
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swing shifter here..... I put a bid on that flywheel & clutch set.....I still am gonna have to buy the pressure plate and bearing......wish I could just get it all in a set.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 02:14 PM
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All you need to get is the bearing - the rest is in the auction
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 02:22 PM
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Check your motor mounts also; bad mounts can cause a pretty bad shudder when you engage the clutch. If the motor mounts are OK then do a proper clutch job. Put your money into replacing the 10" clutch I'm sure you have; the 11" is only a minor upgrade and will require a different flywheel (I think) and more expensive parts. Replace the pressure plate, disc, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, throwout fork (inspect and replace if worn) and fork boot. Remove the flywheel and have it refaced. Be sure to ***** punch the flywheel and crankshaft so you can put the flywheel back on in the balanced position. While you have the flywheel off, check the rear main bearing oil seal for leaks and replace it if it is leaking; it can only be replaced with the flywheel off. Or, just replace the seal; they aren't that expensive. A job this complete will cost a few bucks more than an economy job, at first, but will last a lot longer. To quote the mechanic I apprenticed with, "Seems nobody has the money to do it right but they always seem to have the money to do it over".
 
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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 06:08 PM
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If you have manual clutch linkage, check that everything is tight and lubed well. Also If you have manual clutch linkage, check your cab mounts. Worn out cab mounts, and/or broken ones can cause this problem as well. These are easy checks before tearing into a clutch.
 
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