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Help! My fuel indicator guage has stopped working!
The guage itself is not physically stuck. It moves up a little when turned off, but promptly returns to "empty" when the car is turned on.
Where should i start looking? I'm hoping it's a bad wire or something and not the sender in the tank. The Vehicle is a 1992 Ford Explorer XLT w/about 210,000 miles (still runnin' strong)!
Thanks,
Irving Seligman
Austin, TX
Problem is most likely the in-tank float. Seems to be common problem. Part is around $5 from Ford, labor to replace is much more but you can do yourself. It is much easier to do if you run your tank down to close to empty before attemting it. Hardest part is removing some support bolts that may be rusted into the frame.
Dialtone
I checked the sender from my 92. I replaced the entire assembly when I put in a new fuel pump. The resistance goes from 160 ohms full tank to 15 ohms empty. This is reverse of how many of these senders used to work where typically problem was somewhere around half full it shortly goes to empty. Now a broken sender must send the gauge to full, though havent tried it. The sender is a ceramic resistance element. Sender wire is yellow/white and if you bring it to ground it should read empty. If you are unsure of connection, bring it to ground through a 120 ohm resistor, available at Radio Shack, it should show about 3/4 full. This will test the dash gauge. Use an ohm meter to check the sender in tank. This is sounding like a short in the wiring. Does the temp gauge still work?
Last time I tried to buy a sender for my Ford older PU (that didn't have an in tank pump) it was $135, they only sell the entire assembly.
I had the same problem on my 93 4x4 Explorer. Finally got around to fixing it two weeks ago. I couldn't find anyone that just sells the sending unit. They all come with a fuel pump. Kind of pricey. Luckily I found a sending unit on the auction site for $10.00. As it turns out, it was just that the brass float had flooded out. If this is the case for you, don't try and repair it. Just buy a new float for $5.00.
Follow the procedures in Chiltons for relieving the fuel pressure in your system (after you run as much fuel out as possible.) You will also need to pick up the special fittings/tools needed to remove fuel lines on fords. Cost me $11.00. Just cheap little plastic devices. I had one that was still stubborn even with the tool.
It took me about 5 hours to complete. I could do it again in about 2 hours. You know how that goes. Anyway, it's great having a fuel gage again.
Good luck.
Larry
I am new to the group and found this thread. I am having the same problem with my gauge. I have a '93 Ford Explorer Sport with 155,000mi. that I am slowly modifying. One day the gauge just stoped working. A couple of times since then (not many) it would just work for a day or two (that hasn't happened in about a year). Could the float be the cause of this type of behavior, or is it the sender. I would like to have an idea of what I am getting into before I drop the tank.
This happens to be an old thread, however stick around and someone will be by to answer your question.
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Thanks for the heads up. I guess if I was really paying attention I would have seen that the posts were all from about 4 years ago. It did help me a lot and now I have a direction to go in. I really like this sit, it is chok full big chunks of info.
go to a junk yard look for a explorer, or ranger that has the same dash as yours pull the dash and you will find a circuit board on the left hand side inside the instrument cluster. Slide the circuit board out and put it in yours.
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