EVR question??
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: NC
EVR question??
I have an 87' I6, automatic, EFI with a engine running code #46 (also a knock sensor code but haven't got to that yet). I know that has to do with air not properly passing in the thermactor system. After checking the bypass, diverter and TAB, TAD solenoids as well as the circuit, I can't find anything wrong. I followed my Haynes manual. Anyway, while I had the bracket off that holds the EVR, TAB, and TAD solenoids, I tested the EVR. Resistance was about 42 ohms (within specs). When I applied vacuum to the inlet of the EVR solenoid with a guage at the outlet and 12V applied accross it vacuum bleeds pretty fast and never goes over about 5 or 6 inches no matter how fast I pump. Is this normal? Should it hold vacuum? It bleeds off in about 2 seconds. Could this have any effect on the thermactor system code I got? Any help is appreciated!
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
The EVR should bleed vacuum. If it didn't the EGR valve would stay open all the time. The problem is that it should bleed off on the gage side and hold on the pump side when there is no voltage across the EVR. This shouldn't affect the AIR system.
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From: NC
I guess my questions are..."should it bleed vacuum when it has voltage?" and "shouldn't it have more vacuum than 6 inches on the outlet port when it has voltage?" It seems like 6 inches might just barely be enough to open the EGR. It vents from the outlet when there is no voltage. Should it vent when there is voltage too? It does hold vacuum on the inlet side when there is no voltage. I would hate to spend $30 to find out the answer. Thanks Silver Streak!
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From: NC
It hesitates around 1500-2000 RPM. It also wants to stall after idleing for more than a couple minutes. From the posts I've read, this is such a common problem but everybodys fix is different. Or, the things they replaced to correct the problem I have already replaced.
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