How much of a power increase shoud I expect out of my 76 302 (140 hp stock I think) if I change the cam to somewhere in between mild and radical (but leaning towards radical )?
I would also have headers, intake, carb and maybe some heads if that makes a difference. And what numbers on the cam would I want to have most of the power down low where I can use it?
Thanx.

 

Here is a quick synopsis of a cam tutorial. The more radical the cam the more you lose on the low end, but build power in the upper rpm range. Pick a camshaft that suits the range of rpm's that you drive in regularly. If you pick too much cam and you run an automatic transmission, you will have to change your torque converter. I suggest the following 2 cams (both are Comp Cams XTREME ENERGY cams) 1) Hydraulic-strong torque thru low end and mid-range, good idle. 1000 to 5200 rpm range camshaft part number 31-234-3 cam grind number XE256H duration @50 intake 212 exhaust 218 valve lift w/1.6 rocker intake .477 exhaust .484 2) Hydraulic- excellent response, good mid range, stock converter, 3.23-4.10 gears. 1300 to 5600 rpm operating range. camshaft part number 31-238-3 cam grind number XE262H. Duration @ 50 intake 218 exhaust 224. Valve lift w/1.6 rockers intake .493 exhaust .500 .
Get some good heads like the GT-40 or GT-40P heads or any other performance small block Ford heads and an aftermarket intake. Don't forget the exhaust needs to free flow also. Headers work well but they are not necessary. I would use them.
An ignition upgrade to either a Jacobs ignition or an MSD ignition gives more power also.
These few mods will give you a real nice " I can feel it in the seat of my pants " feeling. In other words very noticeable. I hope that you like the suggestions.

 

Thanx for the suggestions but with those cams will I have to change the lifters and rockers? How much of a difference will they make because in my jegs catalogue I think they say roller rockers give increases of up to 15 hp. I know I wouldn't get that increase but would it be worth my money to change them?
And also what about the kits they have in Jegs. I thinks they're made by Edelbrock, Performer RPM and Torker 2. They come with a Carb, cam , intake and maybe lifters for $750 US. Are those good choices because they come matched to each other and I wouldn't have to do any guesswork to get the best combo?

 

A lot of people have been disappointed with the Edelbrock cams. As for changing lifters, you must change them any time you change a cam with only 1 exception. The exception would be on a roller cam. Roller rockers are a good way to go. I can't believe that I left them out. You may have to get tall valve covers so the roller rockers don't hit. The Edelbrock Performer intake manifold,Weiand Action Plus intake manifold, or a Holley intake manifold would be an excellent choice for the cam application that I have suggested.
I don't have a Jegs catalog, therefore I can't say.
A good roller rocker is the Comp Cams Magnum steel rollers tip rocker arm.
Carburetor choices Barry Grant Road Demon Jr (vacuum secondaries electric choke) 525 cfm, Holley Street Avenger (electric choke) 570 cfm, Carter AFB (Vacuum secondaries, electric choke) either the 500 cfm or the 600 cfm will work. The Edelbrock carburetor is made by Carter.
All these speed parts cost money, and it adds up quickly.

 

Find somebody who owns a desktop dyno program, or buy one yourself. Then you can plug and play any combination of parts to see which will give you the results that you would like.

 

Thanx for all the help. I'll see about the desktop dyno. And I'm afraid of how much money I'll end up dumping into the truck just for a bit more power.

 

Oh, I think it may end up around 300 horsepower, give or take. Try to find a good set of used heads. That will save big bucks, they are like half of a new pair are. Try some swap meets and see if you can get used manifolds, carburetor,etc.. Bring a straight edge and make sure that none of the sufaces are warped. You don't want to throw money away on junk. Buy the valve train parts new. Good luck.

 

300 hp is plenty to smoke the tires real good and I was plannig on going to buy used parts if possible like the manifold, carb and heads because I have so little cash but that's the info i needed to set me on my way thanx alot.

 

pizalm,

I got a destop dyno, I'll punch in the numbers when I get home and get back to you with some info.

Sanders

 

cool, I'd like to see what combo gives the most.

 

Here is what I came up with

366 ft/lbs torque at 4500rpm's and 379hp at 6000

This is the setup I have with my 302 that I have in a 68 F100

Holley 570 Street Avenger $329
Edelbrock Preformer RPM $230
World Products Rousch 180 heads cast iron, $820 a pair
Dynomax headers $99
Crane Cam Energizer 272 grind, .484 lift, new valve springs and roller rockers $380
Double roller timing chain $60
160 thermostat $8
Fram air hog $44
1 inch spacer $19
9mm Ford racing plug wires $70
MSD ignition(distibutor, coil, 6A box) $567
Dual exhaust with glasspacks $185

The desktop dyno doesn't figure in the ignition, so I'm probably making close to 400hp, and around 380ft/lbs. Total price $2712, going fast isn't cheap. I'll mess with the cam some more and see if I can get a higher figure out of the dyno.

This is a strong motor and I haven't had a need to get anymore power out of it.

Sanders

 

Thanx Sanders those are nice numbers, that's exactly what I wanted to see, the price isn't to bad considering I got my truck for 24 beer, it's a 76 with 60,000 miles Putting the total cost at about 3000 if I get the same parts as you, not that bad and I can knock some off that with used parts. Thanx again

 

With that cam will he have to change his torque converter?

 

I'd likely change the torque converter and gears anyways if I got that far into mod's anyways to give it a bit more kick off the line.

 

If your happy with it, go with it. The Roush 180 heads from World products are good heads. I figured you might have wanted to save a few bucks. You can get a pair of fully assebled heads from Summit Racing for $919.90 U.S. dollars, the part # is WRL-053030-1.