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Should I ditch the feedback carb on my inline 6 and find an older carb to eliminate the idle problems. I can't get the rpms to drop without forcing it by reving the engine briefly. Or should I replace all the vac lines with new ones and go by the diagram? confusing as it is.
Sorry, I don't have an answer but am interested in your diagram for the vac lines. I have a 1975 6 cyl. 1 bbl. that I had the carb rebuilt and some of the vac lines are diconnected or sealed off. Want to know where they all go and if they are important (one is to the choke which has been turned into a manual.
The feedback carb's idle is controlled by an idle speed solenoid. You can take it off and see if this helps the feedback solenoid is used to lean out the idle mixture and if it is stuck open could be causing a high idle. It too can be plugged off. This almost sounds like the throttle cable is binding.
All those plastic vacuum lines were fried...too many years laying near the head.
I replaced them all with some small emissions hose.
What's cool was I cut a 2 ft (or so) length of 3/4" PVC, sprayed it silver (to go faster!), layed it front to back and routed all those lines inside it.
It really cleaned up the clutter. Looks like a Ford engineer did it! (no disrespect)
The engine high idles after it has warmed up. At initial startup it idles below 1500. after it warms up it moves to over 2000. I'll try the solenoid and see if that changes anything
I had the same problem with the 300 6 in my 78 f-100. Sounds like the automatic choke isn't working. hook up a switch to it, or change to a manual choke jsut like in a riding lawnmower.
This has nothing to do with vacuum lines anymore.
It sounds like your fast idle cam (on the carb) is out of adjustment.
You'll need alot of tools.... a screwdriver.
With engine cold, rotate throttle lever, watch closely...you will see another lever click into place...it has a screw, should be resting against the carb body. That's the screw you want. Back it off and the rpms will decrease, and vice versa.
Now that you've identified the right screw, you can mess with it every morning when you start it up. I'm thinking it runs at a slower rpm at initial startup cause the engine hasn't warmed up. I have my 83 300 set to start at 1500, it slows to 1000 for about 20 seconds, creeps back up, that tells me it's warmed up and able to idle without any choke help, so I kick the fast idle off by tapping the gas pedal. Then the speed drops to 600, gradually increases to 800 as the miles are driven.
By the way, the other screw near there is the idle speed screw....you can mess with that to set "hot" idle speed.
its a 1986. I've tried to disconnect the solenoid but it will not stop pushing the idle up.
I've disconnected the power and vac lines and it still makes no difference
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