Hello All! First time here. Here's the critter: 2000 X 2wd LTD Automatic 57,000 miles. Here's the problem: 1 month ago had a dead battery, jump started ok for 2 weeks, dead battery again, jump started checked charging system (14.6). 3 days later buzzing from fuse box on left side of steering column. Yellow fuse/relay hot and buzzing which controls running board lights, power windows, interior dome, cruise control lighting, I thinks that's it. So I replaced this relay. All fine for 2 weeks, then started buzzing again, this time I lost the sound only from the stereo, CD. Unit turns on/off, seems to work correctly however no sound, relay still buzzing. When I reached home and shifted into park, as the shifter passed reverse the sound returned form the speakers, if I moved back to drive I lost the sound, move back across reverse and the sound came back. I then shut down the vehicle and waited 2 minutes, restarted, everything ok. Went out later last night and after 10 minutes of driving the relay started buzzing again. Don't know about the stereo as it was turned off.

I'm open for any thoughts!!!!

Dave

 

sounds like you have some chafed wires. possably something grounding out . start with the tail lights/ trailer connections. it just a stab in the dark but it is where I would start to look.

 

I have a 2000, XLT, 2x2,V-10. Since we bought it brand new we have had problems with the electrical system. The door locks on both sides of the vehicle have been replaced, in seperate years. The door ajar light stays on along with the dome lights and the running board lights when all of the doors are shut. Sometimes when I'm driving they will turn off by themselves! When I make an appointment with the dealer to take it in everything is working fine. Anybody else with this same problem? This is the fourth time I will be taking it in.

 

I recommned going to a shop that specializes in auto electrical. We learned the hard way. The wife's Sable had very strange electrical happenings including battery dead several times. Took it to our mechanic who tested the battery and said it was fine. After two days of checking harnesses, he installed a kill switch, which cut off all accessories when the car was not in use.

As an engineer, I am not satisfied with that kind of solution, so I took it to an electrical specialty shop. They tested the battery with their (more sophisticated equipment) and replaced it as faulty. They then removed the kill switch. We never had another problem. Cars are much more sophisticated today and sometimes you need to go to the specialist.

 

I've got a problem with the speedo dropping down and the anti-lock light going on for a few seconds. This usually happens on the highway. Need to take it in to find out the problem. A couple of months ago I had the same problem, but the main problem I had was getting it started and the engine surging as if it were running out of power or gas. I'd get it running, then I'd put it in drive or reverse and it would stalled. The surging would happen when the speedo dropped and when the light popped on. The dealer replaced a sensor on top of the rear of the trans. It helped, but every once and a while the light and the speedo will go crazy for a few seconds. As it is still doing. It starts up just fine. Knock on wood! But it gets me nervous seeing these thing happen when you are hundreds of miles away from home.

 

Dave1956, my problem started similar to yours (a clicking noise in my case), this clicking was intermittently coming from the fuse box area. About 3 weeks ago, while parking the boat in the garage, suddenly the motor started surging gages moving erratically, and lights blinking before the motor stalled. I couldn¡¦t get it to start again, after jump starting it, and knowing that I had ran the batteries down several times before, I decided to get a new pair of batteries. I cleaned the connectors and trickle charged the batteries overnight. Everything seemed fine until last night when I go stuck with a non starting truck again ƒ¼.
I am interested on finding out if either you or BILL4KATH have found the root cause of the problem before I have to go flush some $$$$ to let someone shotgun ( I mean troubleshoot) the problem.

Thanks,
2001 Limited X
7.3 PSD, dual batt, single alt, with 70k.

 

I've also had the dead battery and intermittent idiot light thing going on. But, also in this thread, someone posted about the door ajar- running board lights on- dome lights on- sometimes shutting off by themselves (during driving- when they should've been off to begin with). I had the door ajar light on when all doors were confirmed to be properly shut- problem, and I read in one of these forums, to give each of the latches on each of the doors a good soaking with WD-40. It worked for me, immediately. Never had the problem again. But this other problem is getting to the frustrating level. There's a TSB out on keeping the batteries fully charged with a shop trickle charger- I've done this and it works, but I had to do it twice, luckilly I was home and had the charger available. BUT THERE IS MORE TO THIS PROBLEM THAN KEEPING THE BATTERY(S) CHARGED FROM AN EXTERNAL CHARGER. Aren't these trucks supposed to have the same "Battery Saver" technology built into them that the other Ford vehicles have? The "Battery Saver" feature built into my wife's 2000 Windstar SE worked flawlessly, but then it had other advanced features not available to the truck owner, such as not being able to lock your keys in the vehicle. I mean you literally could not lock the keys in this Windstar, if you left the keys in the car and tried to manually lock the doors, the door(s) would automatically unlock and stay unlocked until you found the keys and removed them from the minivan.

Back to the battery saver on my Excursion, it doesnt work correctly and will allow power drain from the batteries until they are dead. I see some versions of the truck are or were available with 2 alternators, i wonder if this would've helped.

When the batteries are fully charged, I have no other problems or symptoms. When the batteries are not 100% charged- I've had these indications- all of which will go away as soon as the batteries are 100% fully charged:

1. Service Engine Soon Light comes on- sometimes
2. ABS Light comes on- sometimes
3. Charging System Warning Light comes on- sometimes
4. Brake Warning Light comes on- sometimes
5. Oil Press/ Coolant Temp Waning Light comes on- sometimes
6. The Speedometer and Tach will register speed and rpm's with the engine OFF
7. The O/D Light at the end of the Trans Selector will flash on and off- sometimes

Again, all of these "symptoms" will disapear as soon as the batteries are fully charged. Also, the little "eye" on each of the batteries has the flourescent red/orange bead showing at all times- shouldn't it be some sort of green- or is that on the older GM's?

I know I'm raising more questions here, but if someone recognizes these symptoms and has experienced the same with a possible solution- or even a partial solution, I would, and I'm sure others would greatly appreciate it.

 

WOW, as it seems we are suffering from the same problem, whatever the heck that is. I wonder if anyone has brought this over to Ford’s attention, I will see if I can find any TSBs relating this problem…..

If anyone finds the culprit please let me know as soon as possible, I have an appointment with ford next week to work on this.

 

I know this post is old but I had the exact same problem today!

Started a little different for me. After a torrential rainstorm today I went out to the X to run up to the corner store and she didn't unlock with the fob. I punched in my unlock code and walla the doors unlocked. When I opened the door the radio was playing the fan for the A/C was running and the door chime was ringing as if the keys were in the ignition. WTF?

I get in starts right up go to pull away and as soon as I shift into drive the audio goes out on the radio, power to radio is still on but no sound. I pulled over shifted into N, R, P, and what you know sound comes back when shifter is in P or N!

I tore into the steering column, fuse box, and GJB under the hood. I checked everything. Then after a couple hours of trying the key back and forth starting and re-starting and wiggling wires the truck would finally turn off all the accessories when the key was in the off position and removed. I didn't do anything to it, but the audio problem still persist.

So confused any ideas?

 

Time to take it to a shop that specializes in electrical problems.

 

Electrical issues are always a pain. I once had a minivan (not a Ford) that the instrument cluster went out on. Took it to a shop that ultimately discovered that there was something wrong with the heater and A/C control. (Not sure if they went bad or were the wrong one for the vehicle.) I bought another controller at a salvage yard and the gauges began working again.

 

Sometimes I will notice that my lights wont go off and realized that the back hatch is the cause, I have to open it and close it about 2-3 times and then they will shut off.

I am not sure how the switches are incorporated with the latches but this might be where you start looking! Maybe just not making a good enough contact. Hope this helps!

 

Based on the title of your post "Shifting into Reverse or Drive I loose Audio from radio!" I would have to say that you have been plagued with the steering column chafing gremlin.

Here are a couple of threads you might read through. Some similar problems to yours.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...uestion-3.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ges-radio.html

 

Update to the electrical problem. After digging around under the dash and checking everything on the truck I could think of, I was still having the same problem. I left the truck alone for a few hours due to frustration & rain. I went back to the truck later on that evening and was sitting in the driver’s seat when I noticed there were three water trail marks on the inside of the windshield coming from the corner of the top of the windshield. So my windshield was leaking and the water was somehow shorting things out under the dash. I put the truck under cover that morning as we still had more rain expected. After the truck dried up I sealed the top of the windshield molding to the cab where they meet with some ultra black RTV. I also squeezed in a bead of it under the windshield molding along the entire top of the windshield.
Hope this keeps the electrical issues away for now until I can get the rust and the windshield molding repaired and replaced.
Plan to investigate the fuse box and wiring under the dash further this week. Try to find any corrosion or water damaged parts.
I’ll keep you guys posted. Oh by the way once my truck had a day, day and half to dry up, no more issues! I disconnected the battery for almost 24 hours the night before this repair.

 

Nice find. Thanks for keeping us updated. You never know who this will help in the future.