Clutch/Starter Sensor ?
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 317
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From: New Jersey
Clutch/Starter Sensor ?
I have a 95 F150 with an I-6 standard shifter and recently I have had to really stomp the clutch pedal multiple times to get the starter to engage. Is there a sensor that could be malfuntioning ?
Thanks, Chet
Thanks, Chet
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
The clutch has a master cylinder with a pushrod to the right of the throttle. The clutch pedal position switch (yes, that is what Ford calls it) is wrapped around the pushrod near the firewall where it goes into the clutch master cylinder. You may be able to "adjust" it a bit - further away from the firewall will make it trip sooner so you will not have to push the pedal as far.
Dave / Believer45
Dave / Believer45
Last edited by believer45; Jun 17, 2004 at 06:27 PM.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Thanks for the help Dave. I assume that the clutch master cylinder and the The clutch pedal position switch you talked about are under the hood and not in the cab near the pedals ? Again just making sure and thanks for your advise.
Chet
Chet
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Originally Posted by oldcoupe42
Thanks for the help Dave. I assume that the clutch master cylinder and the The clutch pedal position switch you talked about are under the hood and not in the cab near the pedals ? Again just making sure and thanks for your advise.
Chet
Chet
Dave / Believer45
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
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I got the jumper cap of an automatic transmission truck and did away with the switch.it just depends on how comfortable you are with not having that switch.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Im very comfortable with doing away with that switch. Whats the best source to find a "jumper cap" from the auto trans model ? (Parts store) (Junk yard, where do I pull it from on the wrecked vehicle) ?
Thanks, Chet
I got the jumper cap of an automatic transmission truck and did away with the switch.it just depends on how comfortable you are with not having that switch.
Thanks, Chet
I got the jumper cap of an automatic transmission truck and did away with the switch.it just depends on how comfortable you are with not having that switch.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Wooooo Hoooooooo !!! Problem fixed ! The Pushron came partly of its mounting post so I just pushed it back on and all is well again. I feel like a real mechanic now ! You guys are all great, but Im still considering bypassing that switch. Thanks again
Chet
Chet
New User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 18
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From: Bloomington, IN
shorting clutch switch
Does anybody know what color wires you have to short together to bypass the clutch switch? I looked under there last night expecting to just see two wires, but I saw 6 or 8 or something like that going into a connector where the clutch pushrod is.
Thanks,
Jason
Thanks,
Jason
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Thanks wtroger, I just figured out that my problem is that the white plastic retainer clip that holds the pedal position swithch onto the pushrod post is cracked and allows the switch to work its way of the post and occasionally leaves me with no clutch ! Anyone know where I can find a replacement "clip" of something I can use to hold that pushrod/swithch in place (on the post) ?
Thanks, Chet
Thanks, Chet
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 781
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From: East Texas
I'm assuming you're referring to the circular clip that retains the master cylinder pushrod on the steel shaft from the pedal.
The clip can still be purchased from the Ford dealer. I went through this recently, replaced the clip and shortly thereafter (like 1 hour) the new clip cracked and ended up replacing the master cylinder. So far so good. However, it made me appreciate the mechanical linkage in my 77. I've never been a fan of hydraulic clutches anyway.
Approximate cost of the clip was $8.00 and the master cylinder was $103.00.
The clip can still be purchased from the Ford dealer. I went through this recently, replaced the clip and shortly thereafter (like 1 hour) the new clip cracked and ended up replacing the master cylinder. So far so good. However, it made me appreciate the mechanical linkage in my 77. I've never been a fan of hydraulic clutches anyway.
Approximate cost of the clip was $8.00 and the master cylinder was $103.00.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Thanks for the info Jason, If I may ask, why did you replace the master cylinder ? Was it because the pushrod on the steel shaft kept falling off (even after clip was replaced) or was the M/C just worn out ?
Chet
Chet
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 781
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From: East Texas
When the new clip broke, it managed to damage the plastic end of the pushrod so that further new clips would not adequately retain the pushrod in place. The pushrod itself can't be replaced, at least not that I could see based on its attachment to the master cylinder. And I also thought that perhaps the pushrod problems could have been caused by some binding within the cylinder. So I bit the bullet and replaced the cylinder. Don't know if that was the case or not, but like I said, so far so good.