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bleeding a clutch

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Old Jun 16, 2004 | 08:00 PM
  #1  
pirocat29's Avatar
pirocat29
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From: Fort Hood
bleeding a clutch

I just got done redoing my clutch and i had to pull my trans how do i effeciantly bleed the clutch. I have cracked the bleeder screew more then 20 times and the pedal does not get any stiffer and i have been adding dot 3 fluid. Help me ASAP
 
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Old Jun 16, 2004 | 08:29 PM
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Did you replace the slave cylender? These tend to leak once you replace the clutch and you minds well do it when you have the tranny out with the clutch since you need the tranny off to replace the slave cylender..if its leaking you wont have pressure in the clutch
 
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 01:19 AM
  #3  
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i replaced the master and the slave and i still have a soft pedal. The clutch engages almost at the floor but before it engages its pretty much a dead zone.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 01:26 AM
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From: Fort Hood
I have one more question i put gear lube in because i know that in GM and Foreign you are sopposed to but when i got my Exploder it had ATF. Since i have been done (1 day) i have been smelling burning gear lube and my trans is getting real hot
 
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 11:50 AM
  #5  
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The Mazda M5OD transmission does indeed require Dexron III/Mercom ATF.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2004 | 07:49 PM
  #6  
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when the clutch is replaced its normal to get a burning smell from the vehical unless the smell does not go away then be concerned
 
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Old Jun 21, 2004 | 08:39 AM
  #7  
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Since I don't have a 5 speed Explorer I'm just shooting in the dark on this one for you... but I have done some work on other hydraulic clutches.... when you are bleeding the clutch, you really need two people. One person sits in the cab and pumps up the clutch, then holding it to the floor, you crack the bleeder under the hood. Do this a few times and the clutch should firm up. If not, you have other problems.... i.e. a lot of air trapped in the lines.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2004 | 10:49 AM
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remove the master cyl from the firewall, hold it upside down and have someone crack the bleeder screw loose. Then push the master cyl rod by hand all the way down, tighten bleeder screw, let loose of the master cyl rod, and repeat. All in all it sucks, the master cyl sets uphill if you get what I mean and traps air. It's not easy to get the air out.
 
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