No Crankover
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
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No Crankover
I have been reading about some of the posts about the ignition module and wonder if it has something to do with my problem.
My '77 F-150, 300 CID won't turn over. It has new alt, new reg., and jumping it doesn't help. There is about 8v of draw on battery between the negative cable and post when it is disonnected, measured with meter. Pulling all fuses, I still have the draw.
The solenoid clicks and reads 0 ohms when on.
I can turn the engine over by hand!
My '77 F-150, 300 CID won't turn over. It has new alt, new reg., and jumping it doesn't help. There is about 8v of draw on battery between the negative cable and post when it is disonnected, measured with meter. Pulling all fuses, I still have the draw.
The solenoid clicks and reads 0 ohms when on.
I can turn the engine over by hand!
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
Originally Posted by jwirth
I have been reading about some of the posts about the ignition module and wonder if it has something to do with my problem.
My '77 F-150, 300 CID won't turn over. It has new alt, new reg., and jumping it doesn't help. There is about 8v of draw on battery between the negative cable and post when it is disonnected, measured with meter. Pulling all fuses, I still have the draw.
The solenoid clicks and reads 0 ohms when on.
I can turn the engine over by hand!
My '77 F-150, 300 CID won't turn over. It has new alt, new reg., and jumping it doesn't help. There is about 8v of draw on battery between the negative cable and post when it is disonnected, measured with meter. Pulling all fuses, I still have the draw.
The solenoid clicks and reads 0 ohms when on.
I can turn the engine over by hand!
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 250
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>Electrical problems are a pain in the shorts,
Yeah they are. I completely bypassed the battery and used only the jump battery. No change. I have the same results with the new starter. So I am guessing that either I got a bad starter at Advance (no surprise) or there exists another problem I have yet to find.
I am unable to get the starter to work with battery cables out of the truck. Maybe I have cheap cables.
Yeah they are. I completely bypassed the battery and used only the jump battery. No change. I have the same results with the new starter. So I am guessing that either I got a bad starter at Advance (no surprise) or there exists another problem I have yet to find.
I am unable to get the starter to work with battery cables out of the truck. Maybe I have cheap cables.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,625
Likes: 342
From: Albuquerque
try gounding the jumper battery with the old battery disconnected. Stab the pos. lead of the known good battery to the starter side of the solenoid. If the starter doesn't turn it or the cable is bad. If it does you origninal battery or the solenoid is bad.
The solenoid could possibly be the cause of a current drain if it came apart internally.
The solenoid could possibly be the cause of a current drain if it came apart internally.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 92
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From: Everett, WA
Originally Posted by jwirth
8v of draw
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Gainesville, FL
All,
the starter uses every potential amp available and a total voltage drop is not unusual. Measure the drop is though! If the battery is good, then, get a pair of channel locks and short the solenoid. If the starter doesn't kick in then, you've got only a couple of things to replace.
1. starter
2. positive battery cables
3. negative battery cables.
I'm guessing ground is bad. This is the most common failure.
Good luck,
KingFisher
the starter uses every potential amp available and a total voltage drop is not unusual. Measure the drop is though! If the battery is good, then, get a pair of channel locks and short the solenoid. If the starter doesn't kick in then, you've got only a couple of things to replace.
1. starter
2. positive battery cables
3. negative battery cables.
I'm guessing ground is bad. This is the most common failure.
Good luck,
KingFisher
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Senior User
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When I have the negative cable off, if I place digital meter between the cable and post, it reads about 8V.
I think I have two problems.
The more I think about it, and the more feedback I am getting, I think I will double check the cables. I had to fix the negative one recently. Maybe its shot beyond repair.
I think I have two problems.
The more I think about it, and the more feedback I am getting, I think I will double check the cables. I had to fix the negative one recently. Maybe its shot beyond repair.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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These are a good read & may help you in your trouble-shooting 
Electrical systems 101
http://www.users.bigpond.com/jack_st...to_elec_1.html
Charging system 101.
http://www.humanspeakers.com/ford/charging.htm#trouble
Ignition system 101
http://tpub.com/basae/40.htm
Electrical systems 101
http://www.users.bigpond.com/jack_st...to_elec_1.html
Charging system 101.
http://www.humanspeakers.com/ford/charging.htm#trouble
Ignition system 101
http://tpub.com/basae/40.htm